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Continuous illumination of the power top switch (S84), when it's not being pressed, would occur if the switch is defective or has a discontinuity.in it's wiring.
Check that when the connectors where put back onto the center consoles lower control field control module (N72), that the wiring harness connectors were put onto the correct switches.
To help figure that out, the power roof S84 switch, should have color coded wiring that would include BW, BKGY, YEWH, GYBU .
Does that mean there should be 4 wires going into the red plug? I only have 3. I thought that my switch might be broken, so I used a spare I had and it still glows constantly.
Does that mean there should be 4 wires going into the red plug? I only have 3. I thought that my switch might be broken, so I used a spare I had and it still glows constantly.
Just to make sure we're on the same page, you said that "When I pull up on the console switch it stays lit red and there is no blinking.". That is normal operation when opening/closing the roof.
However, continuous illumination of the power top switch (S84), when it's not being pressed, would occur if the switch is defective or has a discontinuity.in it's wiring. Below is a wiring diagram.
Additionally, continuous illumination of the switch, when it's not being pressed, would occur if the controller is not being powered by vehicle circuit 30. You can verify that circuit 30 power is present in the trunk's F4 fuse box with a voltmeter (or trouble light). If present, check fuse #11 (15 amp) that supplies circuit 30 power to the controller and fuse #13 (40 amp) that powers the pump motor, by pulling each one to make sure their terminals are clean and free of any dissimilar metal buildup.
Last edited by Serndipity; 07-24-2018 at 03:00 PM.
Yes, the brown wire from the switch connects to vehicle ground at W18.
Note: For MB, the color brown is used for all ground wiring and W indicates the connection point that goes to vehicle ground.
I got it working! Full disclosure; I swapped the plug for the ESP switch which has a red plug. I thought I tried it before and it didn't fit the s84 switch. I thought all theses plugs and sockets were keyed differently. Apparently not.
If it wasn't for this forum I would not have forced myself to reconsider the plugs. Thank you!
Last edited by sirswift93; 07-25-2018 at 04:22 AM.
Reason: Spelling error.
so I've been reading and fighting with this problem for the past week. Basically what is happening with my 02 clk is that the roll bars activated while i was bringing the top up, i manually lowered the top and since then the top isnt working. After some research i removed the rear seat assembly and release the hydraulic srcew on the pump and then proceeded to lower the roll bar manually, i own a snap-on scanner and i was able to pull the codes b1646 ( unfortunately i dont remember what it was 100% but something to the effect of, roll bar activated for more then 25 seconds). once i erased the code my soft top system started working, but not 100% ... it would start its sequence windows go down top unlocks and top cover unlocks but i stops there and the roll bar goes up again.
i re-scanned for codes and i got b1650-00 - fault in soft top actuation proccess. the limit switches do not have the position excepted in the function sequence
i would also like to mention that every time the roll bar demands a signal up or down,weather its from the manual control in dash or from the N52 the emergency roll bar deploys (with ratchet sound)
things i have checked so far : pump relay - ok
cargo cover safety switch - ok
soft top limit switches - ok
visual inspection of hydraulic fluid and leaks - ok
tried the button reset for roll bars - i hear the pump but does not lock into place and can not bring back down the headrest without manual force
my suspicion is that the Y57/1 RB deployment solenoid is defective causing the roll bar to deploy all the time. does this make any sense to some of you MB gurus?
All help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated
hi Mitch - I had exactly the same problem and fixed it easily - I disconnected the various hydraulic linkages and electrics to the roll bar valve block y57, then I Unbolted the valve block from its mount , tho I could have done the fix without unboting from the mount, then Used Allen keys to take of y57/11 , three o rings in there, one was broken, bought a new set for $10, put it back together and everything works. The o rings are different sizes so you will need to go to a proper seals supplier and get them measured. Good luck
The cab won't open. So car was taken to an official MB workshop. They have changed the bow lock, which supposedly was broken, and the pump relay. All for a total of $1500 ($600 parts, $900 labour).
The cab still don't work, and next step for workshop is to switch pump or data box, since "the pump does not have the power to open the lock or open the bow"
Their cost for a new pump is $8,900. Yes, $8,900.
Ok, so I take on the car.
The pump seems to work, headrests go up and down. I open front of cab manually, windows go down, and buttom is lit red. When I lift the buttom, the pump works, and there is a slight movement in cab door.
I take everything apart, remove both locks so that they hang freely, and open the trunk (trunk lock is closed). When I pull the switch up, there is slight movement in the bow lock but it doesnt open. The lock seems to move freely when I push it though. So, I separate the lock from the cylinder and pull them apart half inch (lock still attached) and try again. And the cylinder is actually pulling the lock!! I.e, the cylinder is pulling, trying to lock the lock! (Or have I gotten this totally backwards??) When I try to open the lock with the manual tool the cylinder goes in the other direction. Video of bow lock when I lift (open) the cab switch:
So something is clearly wrong here. My first idea is that the workshop removed the pump (it is only attached by three bolts so was clearly out of car) and mixed up the hyd lines. The lines seems to be right though. Lines 44 and 47.
The microswithes at both locks seems to be fine, but I have not checked the cables.
Ant thoughts here? What can cause this? A bad solenoid at the pump, or databox think switches are in the worng position? To check the switches I need the schematics for the databox contact, which I couldn't find n this thread?
The cab won't open. So car was taken to an official MB workshop. They have changed the bow lock, which supposedly was broken, and the pump relay. All for a total of $1500 ($600 parts, $900 labour).
MB dealership or indy? Despite the complexity of the A208 power roof system, you've come to the right place. The forum is a treasure chest of DIY diagnosis/troubleshooting/repair information.
The go to place to rebuild of the rear bow lock is Top Hydraulics, which would have saved a ton of money.
The motor relay for the pump is a commonly available $8 part.
The cab still don't work, and next step for workshop is to switch pump or data box, since "the pump does not have the power to open the lock or open the bow"
They are just guessing....beware and $$$$$$.
Their cost for a new pump is $8,900. Yes, $8,900.
Complete pump rebuild at Top Hydraulics is $600....go figure!
Ok, so I take on the car.
The pump seems to work, headrests go up and down. I open front of cab manually, windows go down, and buttom is lit red. When I lift the buttom, the pump works, and there is a slight movement in cab door.
The lamp in the A208 console switch has some self test and diagnostic information (see included document).
I take everything apart, remove both locks so that they hang freely, and open the trunk (trunk lock is closed). When I pull the switch up, there is slight movement in the bow lock but it doesnt open. The lock seems to move freely when I push it though. So, I separate the lock from the cylinder and pull them apart half inch (lock still attached) and try again. And the cylinder is actually pulling the lock!! I.e, the cylinder is pulling, trying to lock the lock! (Or have I gotten this totally backwards??) When I try to open the lock with the manual tool the cylinder goes in the other direction. Video of bow lock when I lift (open) the cab switch:
The hydraulic cylinders are differential (e.g. operation in 2 directions, depending on applied hydraulic pressure). I've included the documentation for the rear bow lock, that explains this.
So something is clearly wrong here. My first idea is that the workshop removed the pump (it is only attached by three bolts so was clearly out of car) and mixed up the hyd lines. The lines seems to be right though. Lines 44 and 47.
The microswithes at both locks seems to be fine, but I have not checked the cables.
The power roof system has a dozen or so position/limit switches. These are inputs that are read by the N52 controller as the roof opens/closes, such that the the controller logic provides the necessary succeeding output actualizations. If a switch actualization is out of sequence, operation of the power roof will stop. There are ways to re-synchronize the switches and/or test there condition.
Ant thoughts here? What can cause this? A bad solenoid at the pump, or databox think switches are in the worng position? To check the switches I need the schematics for the databox contact, which I couldn't find n this thread?
The documents aforementioned are included in another post below.
Your thoughts please.
Lastly, beware that during MY 2001 MB made many upgrades to the power roof system and earlier parts and/or documentation can not be relied upon. As example, the hydraulic pump the later models uses only has 5 solenoids vs. the 7 in earlier MYs.
/Johan
Thanks for the info! I have read this entire thread from post one. Lot of usefull information.
Ok. I haven't had time to check the microswitches, but my brother-in-law (another one) works on Army-issued MB:s and has hopefully access to a test connector cable for the controller connection.
I havent disconnected the controller unit yet. Is each pin number identifiable on the connector?
If everything else works, should you be able to have the top half-open, i.e half way thru the process, and make it go up and down from there?
The bow-lock cylinder is for sure pulling in the wrong direction. The pump has seven solenoids. Can the solenoids be checked in some way?
Yes the car was at a MB dealership. I should add that this is in Sweden. But just removing all the interior and putting it back in should be a big part of that bill.
So, what you are saying is that if the button is lit red (after cab is manually opened in front and windows go down) this is not a good sign? In my world, the pump or solenoids could be bad, but if the controller is bad, would anything work at all then? I.e, the windows logic works now, and the headrests can go up and down.
Thanks for the info! I have read this entire thread from post one. Lot of usefull information.
Ok. I haven't had time to check the microswitches, but my brother-in-law (another one) works on Army-issued MB:s and has hopefully access to a test connector cable for the controller connection.
I havent disconnected the controller unit yet. Is each pin number identifiable on the connector?
If everything else works, should you be able to have the top half-open, i.e half way thru the process, and make it go up and down from there?
The bow-lock cylinder is for sure pulling in the wrong direction. The pump has seven solenoids. Can the solenoids be checked in some way?
Yes the car was at a MB dealership. I should add that this is in Sweden. But just removing all the interior and putting it back in should be a big part of that bill.
So, what you are saying is that if the button is lit red (after cab is manually opened in front and windows go down) this is not a good sign? In my world, the pump or solenoids could be bad, but if the controller is bad, would anything work at all then? I.e, the windows logic works now, and the headrests can go up and down.
Ok I've disconnected the N52 cable, but in order to test the microswitches from the cable, you need some type of diagram for the cable colours or pin locations? I haven't been able to find that online anywhere?
Can the service manual be purchased somewhere?
It would also be helpful to know which solenoid is which on the pump. Same here, I guess one would need a wiring diagram to figure that out.
Mercedes-Benz does not produce service/repair manuals in a standard book format. However repair information is supplied electronically, via software in a product called the Workshop Information System (WIS).
The forum is a treasure chest of information, upon which a shade tree mechanic with good troubleshooting skills, could diagnose and repair the power roof system.
My suggestion is to start with the functional diagram of the N52 controller, I posted in my earlier reply. During roof operation, the controller analyses various inputs (e.g. shown on the left side) to logically step through it's program, to activate various outputs (e.g. shown on the right side).
Next review the stages of power roof operation, when opening or closing the roof, because where it fails to operate, will narrow down the complexity of the system, to a specific area to troubleshoot.
Here are the stages of operation, relating to opening the roof.
From what you have described, the roof is failing in Stage 8.
In stage 1, something else must occur, which is not noted in the above document. . After the locking handle is released, the roof has a pair of mechanical cables that releases the tension on the front bow, that was applied when closing the roof. When this tension is released, the joints on the roof frame should open. If the cables have are stretched or broken, the frame joints won't open and the hydraulic operation in stage 7, will struggle and fail.
Make sure that the driver and passenger side roof frame joints open (e.g. unfold) as shown above.
Next, shown below are the limit switch (inputs) and solenoid valve (outputs), corresponding to the stages of roof operation.
Here are the pin assignments on the N52 controller.
If you remove the wiring harness connector from the N52 controller, using a multimeter set to ohms, you will be able to verify that every limit switch is correctly set and functioning properly, during each stage of roof operation. However, you'll only be able to check that the solenoid coils are present (e.g. coil winding is not open circuit).
To check that the N52 controller is properly sending power (voltage and current) to it's outputs (e.g. valve block solenoids, rear window motors etc.) , you'll need to insert a break out box, between the controller and wiring harness). The necessary 55 pin break out box has a MRSP of nearly $3,000 USD , so is only used at repair facilities that work on the A208 convertibles.
During A208 production, in MY 2001, MB made some important upgrades to the power roof system. As examples, the pump valve block switched from using 7 solenoids to only 5, the soft top compartment cover lock switch changed from having 2 poles of switching to 1 pole and the N52 controller logic between early/later production was modified. However, the connector pin assignments are still usable, knowing what pins are not longer used. As example, as shown the N52 wiring schematic diagram, the change from the 7 solenoid to 5 solenoid valve block occurred for vehicles produced in June 2001.
Following are the wiring diagrams, for both the early and later valve block connections, to the N52 controller (the effective production dates ate noted in the top left side corner).
Last edited by Serndipity; 10-19-2018 at 08:18 PM.
Serndipity,
Cannot thank you enough for taking the time to post this! I will measure on the connector pins this weekend.
Regarding the WIS, I have bought and downloaded it. Haven't had the time to check if my copy works yet though.
Johan........Analyzing the above posted stages of roof operation vs. the controller's input/output documents, is going to be the key to repairing the power roof. As example, most of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that the MB STAR diagnostic software would provide would be that an input is implausible or an output did not activate with a prescribed time (e.g. the same as can be deduced from the documentation). Both methods, simply narrow down an area that requires additional troubleshooting by physically taking measurements to isolate the faulty component. Fortunately, by disconnecting the wiring harness from the controller, the condition of all of the position/limit switches and associated wiring can be verified.
As aforementioned, it's at stage 8, where your roof is failing to open. That means that before the controller will activate the roof lift cylinders, all stages prior must have been successfully completed (e.g. the roof's frame joints have opened in stage 1, as well as all the operations pertaining to the rear bow and tonneau cover opening/closing/locking during stages 2 - 7).
However, before you proceed, in your initial post, you wrote:
[[[[[[The cab won't open. So car was taken to an official MB workshop. They have changed the bow lock, which supposedly was broken, and the pump relay. All for a total of $1500 ($600 parts, $900 labour).The cab still don't work, and next step for workshop is to switch pump or data box, since "the pump does not have the power to open the lock or open the bow"]]]]]]]
Replacement of the rear bow cylindrical/lock is a very simple procedure that only involves reducing the hydraulic system pressure, opening the rear bow, tonneau cover and it's carpeting.
Two suggestions.
First, make sure that the dealership tech remembered to turn the pressure relief screw back to restore full system hydraulic pressure (e.g. 2 turns clockwise to it's stop).
Additionally, replacing the bow cylinder can leave position/limit switches out of kilter with the controller's sequencing and it's frequently necessary to re-synchronize all of the switches, for the controller to enable the hydraulic pump to supply the required cylinder pressure, at the right time, to complete power roof operation (e.g. the stage 8 lift cylinders).
To re-synch the roof, you just need to manually do a manual roof opening and closing cycle, as explained in the 'practical hints section' of the owner's manual. Make sure that the rear bow and tonneau cover closed and locked positions are initially set for the roof being up and locked positions before beginning the re-synch procedure. Preforming the re-synch will then will reset additional position switches (e.g. the S84/15 rear bow up/down position switch).
Last edited by Serndipity; 10-19-2018 at 08:56 PM.
I'm reading your post above again, and no, the top is failing in step 3 according to document 77.30. The soft top bow will not release.
I've found something interesting though, going thru all the microswitches (measuring at the N52 controller cable):
-Luggage cover switch is ok
-Bow lock switch is ok
-Compartment cover lock switch is ok
-Compartment OPEN switch is ok
-Compartment CLOSED switch is NOT ok. It is switched regardless of cover posistion...
To me this is a lead, However the strange thing is that it is SUPPOSED to be switched in this roof position, and it still does not work.
However, it could be that this has caused an out-of-sync.
Now I just need to find the switch and se where the error is.
Another thing, the compartment lock clearly has two switches. (i.e there are three positions, locked, open and in between) but I can only find one in the schematics. What is the purpose of the other one?
I'm reading your post above again, and no, the top is failing in step 3 according to document 77.30. The soft top bow will not release.
If your rear bow does not release (unlock) is an important clue, because as mentioned in my prior note, all stages prior to stage 8, must have been successfully completed (e.g. the roof's frame joints have opened in stage 1, as well as all the operations pertaining to the rear bow and tonneau cover opening/closing/locking during stages 2 - 7).
Assuming that main power roof console switch is not defective, the position switches relating to the bow not releasing are the soft top left limit switch S84/11 and the roll-bar retracted switch S83/5.
The S84/11 is located in the upper front window frame, such that when you unlock the front bow unlocking handle, it will switch to ground and tell the controller to lower all of the windows and roll-bar (e.g. if they were previously up). Since your windows are rolling down, the switch is likely triggering properly.
The roll-bar assembly has 2 position switches that tell the controller when it's retracted and extended. When the roll-bar is fully down, S83/5 must be actuated. If it is not, even though the roll-bar appears down, the controller will think that the roll-bar has not been lowered and the controller will not continue opening the roof (e.g. this is to provide the necessary moving parts clearances).
When S83/5 is actuated, the resistance between pin 16 and vehicle ground should be 0 ohms.
If you find otherwise, it's possible that the roll-bar retracted switch was not actuated because the hydraulic operation was stopped short of fully lowering the roll-bar. If so, try using the roll-bar switch on the dashboard, to raise the roll-bar and hold the switch 5 seconds, followed by lowering the roll-bar and holding the switch for 5 seconds.
I've found something interesting though, going thru all the microswitches (measuring at the N52 controller cable):
-Luggage cover switch is ok
-Bow lock switch is ok
-Compartment cover lock switch is ok
-Compartment OPEN switch is ok
-Compartment CLOSED switch is NOT ok. It is switched regardless of cover posistion...
To me this is a lead, However the strange thing is that it is SUPPOSED to be switched in this roof position, and it still does not work.
However, it could be that this has caused an out-of-sync.
Now I just need to find the switch and se where the error is.
Another thing, the compartment lock clearly has two switches. (i.e there are three positions, locked, open and in between) but I can only find one in the schematics. What is the purpose of the other one?
If I understand correctly, you're referring to the A25 switch group. It's located on the tonneau cover bulkhead and operates as shown below,
However, as I mentioned earlier, during MY 2001, MB made many upgrades to the power roof system, which also included the case cover switch being changed from 2 switching poles to just 1. This change went in effect for production as of May 2001. Not sure which version you have, but the connections for both versions are shown in the below schematic wiring diagram.
/Johan
x
Last edited by Serndipity; 10-20-2018 at 04:41 PM.
Update:
Ok so compartment cover closed switch does work. Lack of understanding from my side, I thought that the swich was in the lid itself, but now I understand that it is built in to the lock (which I had removed), so that one is ok.
The RB down position however, does not seem to work. No contact, alltough RB is down... Ok so I have to hook up a few things and connect N52 and battery, and then try to reset the switch.
Investigating the switch itself (if reset does not work) involvs removing the rear seat I assume? Ok one step at the time...
The N52 controller operates both the power roof and RB and has a built in RB self test capability. If everything is in good operating order, when you turn on the ignition, the dash RB switch will illuminate and flash for approximately 10 seconds and then turn off.
Status?
The RB assembly is accessible by removing the entire rear seat (e.g. seat cushion and seat back).
The assembly and it's components are shown below.
Hopefully, you'll be able to get S83/5 to actuate using the method I described in my prior post. You may need to try the procedure several times and/or applying a bit of manual downward pressure while the RB is being retracted. So as not to throw the stabilization bar out kilter (e.g., which keeps both sides moving in synch), I would suggest applying pressure simultaneously to both head restraints,
Last edited by Serndipity; 10-21-2018 at 09:31 AM.
Well, just running them up and down for a few times (with 5-8 seconds in the end position) did not help. Still no contact at pin 16.
Also, the RB button is lit red. (When RB are in down position and switch is not pressed)
So I guess the next step is to remove the back seat cushions and visually inspect...
I will test your way with extra pressure first, and then tear out the back seat if that extra pressure does not help...
Well, just running them up and down for a few times (with 5-8 seconds in the end position) did not help. Still no contact at pin 16.
Also, the RB button is lit red. (When RB are in down position and switch is not pressed)
Although it's covered in the owner's manual, when the ignition switch is turned to position 2, the RB console switch will illuminate continuously (e.g. normal).
Only when the engine is running, will the switch flash for 10-15 seconds and then turn off. If the switch then continues to illuminate continuously while the engine is running, indicates that the RB is not working properly.
So I guess the next step is to remove the back seat cushions and visually inspect...
I will test your way with extra pressure first, and then tear out the back seat if that extra pressure does not help.
Rather then continuously re-checking the status of pin 16, just check to see if the RB switch illumination turns off after the engine is running.
I tried the pressure trick, while lowering the RB.
Ok, so the switch illumination goes off when I start the engine (had not tried that before so maybe it was the same before), but still no signal/continuity at pin 16...
If I raise the RB, I have continuity at pin 34.
So, a bit strange that the RB switch light goes off, it should get is signal from the same switch (and via N52)?
Amyway, I now need to remove the seat back and check S83/5 switch.
Update:
Removed the seat back.
Please tell me that I do not need to remove the whole RB assembly to check the switches...? They don't look accessible.
I also noticed a thin wire with a 3-pin connector in the back cushion, what is that? FWIW, the contact was not connected.
2nd update:
Ok so I lowered the RB, and measured directly on the switch... nothing!! Also checked the wires back to the N52 contact and the wires are ok.
I then jumped the contact, and lo and behold, IT WORKS!!!
So, now I have three problems:
1) Solve how to make the contact work. Permanently hot-wiring is maybe not a good solution. Tomorrow I will probably remove the contact, or try to lower the RB with even more pressure.
2) Why is the S84 dashboard switch still red? Hmm.
3) I have triggered the ABS warning somehow.... Seems like it happened after I removed the battery and hooked it back up. Anyhow, that's another story. Hopefully it can be reset...
Last edited by Johan_F; 10-22-2018 at 04:42 PM.
Reason: Update
I tried the pressure trick, while lowering the RB.
Ok, so the switch illumination goes off when I start the engine (had not tried that before so maybe it was the same before), but still no signal/continuity at pin 16...
If I raise the RB, I have continuity at pin 34.
So, a bit strange that the RB switch light goes off, it should get is signal from the same switch (and via N52)?
Amyway, I now need to remove the seat back and check S83/5 switch.
Update:
Removed the seat back.
Please tell me that I do not need to remove the whole RB assembly to check the switches...? They don't look accessible.
I also noticed a thin wire with a 3-pin connector in the back cushion, what is that? FWIW, the contact was not connected.
2nd update:
Ok so I lowered the RB, and measured directly on the switch... nothing!! Also checked the wires back to the N52 contact and the wires are ok.
I then jumped the contact, and lo and behold, IT WORKS!!!
Johan.......only commenting on your update 2, as it seems you have made excellent progress and are very close to completing the repair.
By 'IT WORKS!!!', does this mean that with the S83/5 contacts jumpered, the power roof can be open and closed?
If so, that would confirm that the culprit was a S83/5 RB retracted malfunction (as suggested in post #217 above) and the dealership diagnosis and repair was incorrect.
So, now I have three problems:
1) Solve how to make the contact work. Permanently hot-wiring is maybe not a good solution. Tomorrow I will probably remove the contact, or try to lower the RB with even more pressure.
Your S83/5 switch may be faulty and needs to be replaced You should be able to test it by disconnecting the switch pigtail from the wiring harness and checking that the switch opens and closes, by measuring the ohms, when you manually push the plunger on the switch. The MB dealer will tell you that individual RB repair components are not available for the A208 and that you'll have to purchase an entire RB assembly, which is very expensive. However the same switch is used on the R129 SL chassis and is inexpensively available as a repair part.
The other possibility is that the switch plunger is not being pushed inward sufficiently when the RB is lowered. This could be due to insufficient movement of the hydraulic cylinder or the switch is out of kilter and needs to be adjusted. See post #8 in this thread.
2) Why is the S84 dashboard switch still red? Hmm.
Did you mean the S83 RB switch on the dash or the S84 power roof switch on the center console?
As described in the 1st document (in post #209 above), S84 will illuminate while the power roof switch is being pressed, but should not be illuminated when the switch is not being pressed.
3) I have triggered the ABS warning somehow.... Seems like it happened after I removed the battery and hooked it back up. Anyhow, that's another story. Hopefully it can be reset..
Yes, when you disconnect the battery, a couple of systems have to be reset (e.g. initialized). The procedures are detailed in the owner's manual, but here are the abbreviated instructions.
-The ABS/ ESP/BAS warning can be cleared, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel fully left and then fully right.
-Each of the front power windows are reset using their respective center console switches. First fully lower a window and hold 5 seconds, then fully raise the window and hold 5 seconds. The roof and doors must be closed when doing this procedure.
-You'll also have to enter the radio code, as explained in the user's manual.
Yes with S83/5 jumpered the roof goes fully down and up with no problem.
I removed the switch. It works, so clearly the pin is not pushed inward enough. There was three thin shims in the switch nut assembly, I removed these to gain 0,5-1mm or so but tat was not enough.
I can feel with a screwdriver, that the steel part on the inside of the beam (i.e the moving part) has an angle just where the swith pin rests. So by lowering the RB just a tiny bit, the switch would get contact.
I have no idea how that should be accomplished though, the whole assembly seems very rigid. Maybe by first opening the roof, and then with two persons, one each pushing one headrest simueltaneously, while the hydraulic pump works?
But the first time anyone touches the RB button next time, the switch would be out of contact again, and it would take the same procedure to reset it.
-The return spring inside the switch has weakened or the actuating pin is binding (i.e. sticking)
-In order to preventing any tilting over of the roll bar during raising/lowering operation, the synchronizer shaft (#30), that runs on both sides in a gearing via a pinion gear, may have become slightly out of kilter (i.e. angled).
I would not repair the problem by hot wiring (i.e. jumpering) the connector. as not knowing the logic inside the controller, that could prevent the RB from crash deployment or render the S83/6 extended limit switch ineffective and cause the RB to hyper extend (e.g.which will be ***** to get lowered on the A208). Also, after a firm push down of the RB the retract switch, the contact would likely fail after contact with road bumps, pot holes etc.
The repairs of the malfunctioning RB retract switch I'm aware of, were accomplished by replacing it with a new switch, which is available as a R129 part, or removing shims.
If somehow, a pinion gear skipped a tooth, causing a slight cant in the RB, it might be possible to fix via manual manipulation (risky business?). As I previously mentioned, when applying a firmer manual RB push down while the RB was being hydraulically lowered, I suggested applying equal force to both sides, in order to prevent the possibility of the RB becoming side to side askew. Repeating the process a couple of times, only applying added force to the left (S83/5 side) RB head rest, may be productive.
.
Also, perhaps there might be a way, where you could build up the surface on the moving beam, where it makes contact with the switch pin (e.g. thin U sharped push on clip, a dab of epoxy, layers of tape etc.)?
Last edited by Serndipity; 10-23-2018 at 05:45 PM.
07-24-2018, 10:34 AM
Clk 2001 cab problem
