Narwal

Hi,
Very new to MB after 30 years of BMW. Bought a 2002 CLK430 and I have searched the forums but have not found specific answers. I'm sure these questions have been answered before - I just can't find them.

Your assistance would be greatly appreciated, or maybe you could just point me to the proper resource location.

Thanks


1-Cannot enter radio code. Original code doesn't work. Dealer gave me a new code for the radio which was apparently replaced due to defect. Still doesn't work. Asks for code or goes into wait.

2-Is there any way to reset warning lights and/or service reminders?

3-I get a message for lamp failure, but all external lights work.

Thank you.

A1EK

If I recall when I had one of those original Blaupunkt stereos back in 1921 you enter the code then have to push a knob I think.

As for resetting the warning lights, no, as the lights will reset themselves whenever the respective blown bulb has been replaced etc. Likewise if you had a fault message for say a sensor and replaced this, then after 4-5 starts the ECU will clear this automatically as it knows the fault has gone.

As for setting the service its easy, you just press 'Yes' when it asks. to get to this stage and for all re-set procedures including when you disconnect the battery etc ... see my steps below:

If you get a warning light and beep for lights, but dont think any are blown, start by turning engine on, dont touch brake with car in park. Then touch brake, if you get the beep and warning message its one of the brake lights. IF not then turn the side lights on first, if no beep and warning, turn main lights on and contunue to full beem, then pull out for fogs etc. If you still have the wanring on your dash make sure you check the licence plate bulbs too , maybe the person before you stuck in some LED bulbs that due to the low amps will trigger the dash warning .! IF so you need to just buy some capacitors in line.

A1EK’s Reset procedures for CLK 208:

Resetting car after battery fail:

Preparation Steps:
1. Make sure your steering wheel is straight.
2. Make sure your windows are all the way up
3. Make sure your sun roof is completely closed (if you have one)
4. Make sure your parking brake is released.
6. Turn off your stereo and make sure you have your stereo's Anti-theft code.
7. Turn off your heat/AC blower
8. Turn off your lights
9. Make sure your doors are UNLOCKED.

Now, disconnect battery 30 secs and then reconnect.
Get in car close the door and turn the key to position 2 (Just before you start the engine but do not start it)

1. Resetting your windows: Bring down both windows at the same time by holding the switches just before the click that brings them down automatically. Once both windows are all the way down make both switches click by pressing them all the way down and hold them for 3 secs (This lets the ECU learn that that is the end of the window track and it records it in memory). Do the same for closing the windows by holding both switches and making them click once the windows are all the way up.

2. Turn on your blower and make both sides go to 72 deg (if you have this typr of heater control) by pressing both up and down buttons at the same time. This will calibrate the ECU
3. Turn on your stereo and enter you stereo code.
4. Pull the sun roof all the way back and all the way forward then up and then done.

6. Turn all you lights on and off, including your fog lights.

7. Turn the key back to position 0.

8. Turn on your engine. You will get 2 malfunctions, your ABS and ESP lights will be on and must be calibrated.

9. Calibrate your ABS and ESP systems by turning the steering wheel all the way to your RIGHT and then all the way to your LEFT, then bring it back to the middle. Notice the two yellow lights disappear from you dashboard.

10. Let your car run in idle for about 5 minutes and then take it for a spin. Remember your ECU is still getting all the readings from all the sensors on your car so drive slowly first then faster... and so on.. you are basically teaching your ECU how to handle your car.



Throttle Reset

1. Get in and shut the door
2. Turn key to position 2 (just before you start the engine).
3. Press the gas pedal to the floor... past the kick down point...
4. Hold the pedal there for 15 seconds
5. After 15 seconds while foot still planted, turn the key off but do not remove it.
6. Release gas pedal and wait 3 mins. Do nothing, you should here a click near key at 3 mins.
7. After the 3 minutes start the car and drive off normally... you should notice a difference in the shift pattern and smoothness.


Service Reset
Turn the car on to the 2nd key position, all the way ON, but do not start it.

- Then scroll through and find the A/B Service notification. Hold the "R" or reset button on the dash. After a few seconds a message will display on screen asking you if you would like to reset the service notification. Once this happens let off of the "R" button.

- Press and hold the "R" button one more time until the reset is complete.

Valve Reset:
(move valve with finger off 90degrees, turn key to 2nd position, let valve close and open, wait for "click", turn off key, turn back on for 45 secs during which time the valve will close and open again, key off

Narwal

Thanks for the excellent reply. I will perform all the resets shortly.

Just one question- What is the "valve" you refer to?

Again, thank yoiu VERY MUCH!

A1EK

To be honest I never got the valve reset working for me, but others have. Its supposed to reset the throttle valve.

Narwal

Thanks to all who replied.

After waiting a few days (because of the extreme cold) to go out and do these resets, I found that all -or most- of the problems I noticed after the battery was disconnected had reset or fixed themselves.

This makes sense. I've driven the other German cars and none of them required resets as extensive as detailed here. All my issues (save for resetting the service lights), seem to have resolved themselves!

Thanks

Serndipity

Narwal....former BMW owner, here too.

Basically, the W208 has been pretty bullet proof, excepting 'engineers gone wild' with the electrical systems.

The STAR diagnostic software will always clear any warnings/codes and many of the hand scanners can clear OBDII related codes.

That said, many warnings/codes, due to W208 common problems (e.g. mass air flow sensor, crank position sensor, brake light switch etc.), resolve themselves.

For example:

1. CEL due to faulty MAF. After repair and 3 cold starts, the CEL turns off, but if you're due for a state inspection, beware.

See post #3 at https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ine-light.html

2. CEL due to faulty CPS.

When the CPS begins to fail (when engine is warm), the engine may stall (shut off) in traffic and/or will cranks but not start and throw a CEL. When the engines cools down, the engine will usually restart.

A hand OBDII scanner (done free at many auto parts supply places) verified the CPS fault and cleared the CEL. Drove on pins and needles for a few days w/o further issues, until the CPS was replaced.

3. Brake light switch fault.

Another common problem and easy DIY repair. While I have not had the switch failure, occasionally, a lite application of the brakes will trigger the warning, which then clears on an engine restart.

In an earlier post, believe you had bulb out warning, but saw to failed lights. In this case, check the license plate bulb and/or any you can't see with a walk around (e.g. backup, brake lights).

Additionally, you may want to check your idler pulley. See thread at https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...-tensioner.htm

Lastly, although the owners manual states that the transmission fluid is a life time fill, that is not true (e.g. MB now saying replace every 30K miles)........what were the MB engineers thinking (e.g. no torque converter drain bolt, dip stick to check level)?

Narwal

Hi,
Thanks for all the help.
I did find that many of the trouble warnings cleared themselves without any intervention. As did most of the "resets" mentioned earlier-ie: the one-touch up/down on the windows stopped working after changing the battery-then it just started workintg again the next day.

I have one last quesion - see my next post.
Thanks to all who replied.

Serndipity

After 13 years and 85K miles, other than religiously doing routine maintenance (e.g. engine oil, air filter, fuel filter, coolant changes), experienced only a couple of very common (e.g. CPS, MAF and blower regulator) MB issues of this era, which were all inexpensive DIY repairs.

However, as I mentioned above, to avoid a dead in your tracks breakdown, as preventive maintenance, I replaced the idler pulley (which was beginning to crack) and while I was at it, installed a new serpentine belt, as well as the newer and improved belt tensionor.

Also, did my first automatic transmission service (replaced fluid, filter and pilot bushing).

While I have not had an issues with, the only items I could think of adding to your subsequent posting, might be motor mounts and break light switch.