At 77km's what shall I replace before something bad happens.

Recently replace pulley, serpentine belt.

Aircon fixed

Normal oil change, service completed

Convertible hood checked, and fixed.

I am worried I am missing the big picture, any other things I shall buy and replace before I get stuck on the motor way.

Where I live, summer gets really hot, shall I change the water pump, and new coolant?

Any advice appreciated.

Cheers MB enthusiast

 

Steering gear bolts in the drivers wheel well. Check and retorque 3 bolts.

Check your wheel bearings for play. If needed, tighten them.

Inspect your motor mounts for leakage.


Check your engine air filter and cabin air filter.

 

It's hard to tell what you should replace until something breaks. However, when it gets hot the CPS is a common failure, so replace that. Your car will not start without it or until it cools down so it's not a bad idea to replace it before it fails and you're stuck away from home. When mine failed I was stuck in a parking lot for an hour before the car cooled enough to where I could start it.

Some common wear components that you can replace if you're looking for things are valve gaskets, flex discs, motor/tranny mounts, spark plugs, etc. Basically anything that is either rubber or plastic will need replacing at some point.

You should not have to replace the water pump. If your coolant level is low just top it off with a 50/50 mix.

 

There are a number of items, that frequently fail without warning, which then result in an inopportune/expensive on the road breakdown.

As I believe you have, as preventive maintenance, I also recently replaced the idler pulley. This is a plastic pulley with a single bearing. Being the smallest of all the pulleys in the accessory belt system, it spins the fastest and as a result, either the single bearing seizes and/or the pulley's plastic body breaks apart. When this occurs, you loose power braking/steering, engine cooling, alternator charging the battery, as well as collateral damage (e.g. serpentine belt, engine overheating etc.) The cost of a new replacement pulley was less than $20 and it's a pretty easy DIY. As expected, the old idler pulley had developed 3 stress fractures. While I was at it, I also replaced the serpentine belt as well as installing the newer/redesigned belt tensioner (e.g. when spun by hand, the old tensioner bearing was noisy).

My crankshaft position sensor (CPS) also failed and was recently replaced as well. It's a $40 part and another easy DIY. In my case, it's failure was only that the engine would not start when warm. However, many others have had their engines, inopportunely just quit running, while driving. While there have been numerous owner complaints to the NTSB, there have been no deaths (e.g. just scary situations, so no MB recall on this issue).

In reading through both the forum and NTSB complaints, if a liquid (e.g. water, coffee etc.), is spilled onto the center console, the electronic selector module (ESM) is fried. The transmission either locks up or goes into 'limp' mode operation (e.g. where only 2nd gear is available). The MB response was to design and install an improved 'resistant to fluid contamination' ESM in all W208's, produced after March 2001 (see TSB 42/01-2). The old part was A 202 267 04 24 and the new part is A 202 267 08 24 (a sticker showing the production date is located on the driver side door jamb).

Lastly, our W208 owner's manual states that the transmission fluid is a 'lifetime fill'. WRONG!!!! While the 722.6xxx transmission have been mechanically strong, the majority of failures have been due to the electronics/control. As a result, MB is now recommending that the transmission fluid and filter be replaced every 39,000 miles and that the pilot bushing be checked for leaks and replaced if necessary. Specifically, failures in the conductor plate, located inside the transmission area, have since been traced to running old/contaminated fluid. The original pilot bushing is very prone to leaking, which then wicks fluid into and frying the electronics in the transmission control module (TCM). Recently had my first transmission fluid/filter maintenance service done, at which time, found that the factory pilot bushing had some leakage and was replaced with the redesigned bushing.

I've owned my CLK320 Cabrio since new and after 13 years and 86,000 miles, other than the CPS failure mentioned above and having to replace a faulty HVAC blower regulator (another common problem but easy DIY repair), it has only required routine maintenance (e.g. oil/filter changes every 5,000 miles, coolant changes every 2 years, intake air filter/ cabin filter changed every 20,000 miles, fuel filter changed at 60,000 miles).

My front factory brake pads required replacement at 66,000 miles (rotors were within factory specifications and rear pads had plenty of life left). That said, just received a set of new rear pads, spark plugs and brake fluid to install.

 

Now I have a to buy and to do list.

Many of these seems like easy DIY, any specific tools required?

I guess transmission fluid and filter shall be done at the shop, this wouldn't be easy as a DIY job??

Cheers

 

There are plenty of DIY videos/tutorials within the forums.

In addition to having a standard metric wrench and socket set, many repairs on MB also requires a set of E type torx bits and sockets as well. I brought these inexpensively at Harbor Freight Tools.

http://www.harborfreight.com/

Other tools would be:

Torque wrench(s)....remember your often fastening into an aluminum block / timing chain cover, over tightening the wheel lug bolts can result in warped rotors, you should re-torque the 3 steering gear box bolts every 2 years etc.

Oil filter cap wrench and an oil extractor. Makes oil changes quick, clean and easy. Also gets out all the oil. There are many hand operated vacuum units available to do this, but I bought a pump attachment that fits into the chuck of an electric drill.

The special MB spark plug boot removal tool. It's basically a 17mm wrench, designed with a offset end, that makes removing the wires/boots safely and much easier, when working in the very cramped, seemingly inaccessible spaces.

Lastly, do your homework and plan ahead. This will avoid headache (a.k.a as oh crap moments), unexpected breakdowns and save money/time. For example, next time I change my coolant, I'm going to replace the radiator drain plug as well. It's made of plastic with 2 'O' rings (e.g. plastic and rubber parts fail with time) and a new replacement cost only around $4.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...20Drain%20Plug

While the old coolant is drained, may also replace the thermostat too. With age, they tend to get stuck, either open or closed (e.g. neither a happy experience). The replacement cost around $25 and come as an integrated cast elbow housing with the required gasket.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...200@Thermostat

 

Almost everything can be done on this car with simple tools. A socket wrench set, a torx wrench set, and a flathead screwdriver will go a long way. They're all a necessity when working on the car. Other than that there aren't many special tools needed. The only time I've needed something, a long torx extension, is when I was replacing the serpentine belt and idler pulley.

 

Whats the tool name for tie rod replacement, and ball joint replacement

I can't seem to locate it on authauza.

As I read, this two parts are hard to take apart without tools.

Cheers

Sunny

 

Try here: http://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_Be...ools/View_All/

 

The Flexible Service System maintenance schedule covers just about everything you'll need. A copy of what's in the FSS maintenance schedule is here. Where many people go wrong is they skip all the things the dealer usually checks (for extra $150 they charge on top of an oil change).

 

Another important maintenance job which is often forgotten is changing the brake fluid every 2 years.

 

Does that mean i need to bleed the fluid.

What parts do I need for this job.

Cheers

 

The brake fluid should be changed / replaced every couple of years.

While it takes longer, I use the gravity method, because it's a 1 person job, low risk of damaging the braking system and requires no specialized tools or equipment. All you need is a liter of new DOT4+ brake fluid, a length of clear plastic tubing to view the fluid transfer, a container to catch old fluid and a metric wrench to crack open the caliper bleed screws. During the process, top off the master cylinder as needed.

There are faster methods that require added equipment or help.

Power bleeding is also a 1 person method, but requires a somewhat expensive specialized pressure pump that is attached to the master cylinder and filled with fluid. The pump is used to pressurize the system to about 10psi, and the bleeder valves are opened one at a time until the fluid runs clear. One advantage to this system is that the pump reservoir usually holds enough fluid that running dry is not likely. However, if you apply to much pressure, there is a risk of blowing out master cylinder/ABS seals.


Vacuum bleeding at each brake cylinder is also a 1 person method, where a specialized vacuum pump is attached to the bleeder valve, which is then opened and fluid extracted with the pump until it runs clear of bubbles. The caution is that the master cylinder reservoir level must be more frequently topped off and this method can also draw in air via the bleeder threads, so the bubbles will never clear.

Lastly, there is the old school 2 person method. One person pumps the brake pedal to compress the air, then holds pressure on it. The other person opens the bleeder valve to let out fluid and air, then closes the valve after the pedal has landed (to prevent air being sucked back in through the valve on the upstroke). The process is repeated, usually many times, for each wheel. The master cylinder reservoir must be replenished frequently, for if it goes dry the entire process must be redone. The cover must be left loose so that the fluid may be drawn, but should be in place so that fluid does not squirt out on the return stroke. A block should be placed under the pedal to prevent it from bottoming out during this procedure and risk damaging the master cylinder.

 

if you have a harborfreight nearby, they sell a vacuum bleeder kit for about $25.

 

Thanks to Serndipity for the detailed procedures for bleeding brakes - I have always used the the two person procedure without problems. As stated always keep the reservoir full; I open the bleed nipple for the downward pedal movement and then close it whilst kept in the down position. Then the pedal is slowly released and the cycle repeated.

These pedal strokes must be done slowly - I have never used the wood block and never had a problem with damaging any master cylinder.

 

Thanks guys, are there any signs or symptoms that shows up indicating a bleed is required?

Cheers

 

The reason brake fluid is changed is that overtime it attracts,absorbs water and never mind the corrosion it causes it also effects the braking ability under high powered braking causing the well known brake fade.

If the fluid in the reservoir looks black then it definitely needs changing, otherwise it is not possible to differentiate if it needs changing - only based on documented service history.