SUV backed into my car
04-27-2014, 09:26 PM
#1
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1999 CLK 320 (W208) 2008 s500 (w221)
SUV backed into my car
So i was at work everyone runs in saying this guy backed into your car i go outside i see the a** leaving it turns out its my coworkers cousin so he calls him up and he returns. Im pissed cause my car is pretty banged the hood doesnt close evenly anymore, My bumper got a tear/crack behind the grill, the frame behind the front bumper is bent inwards, hood latch got a piece of it broken off, my grill destroyed, my hood got dented all around the grill, and some paint chipping on the hood! I went to a body shop for an estimate they estimated the car to cost around $1,950 the guy wanted to give me $400 and not go through insurance i told him he's stupid so anyway can i use the estimate i received and show the adjuster from his insurance or will they estimate it on their own?? Its a business insurance if that makes a difference it was a limo service
04-28-2014, 05:55 AM
#2
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Most insurance companies have their own adjusters, either adjusters that work directly for the insurance companies, or third party adjusters. That estimate sounds really cheap. Last year some dink backed into my passenger side door. Cost about 2000 to get that done. Good luck.
04-28-2014, 02:27 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Usually, the other party's insurance company will want to see the damage.
Another option is to go through your insurance company. They will pay the full amount, give you a rental while it's being repaired (assuming you have the rental option in your policy), and then they will go after the other party. Why do it this way? A torn bumper cover means you need a new bumper cover. That's a brand new, Mercedes-Benz bumper cover. Not used and not some off brand manufacturer. A cracked grill means you need a new grill. A Mercedes-Benz grill assembly. Not used, and not some off brand. The bent frame behind the bumper means that should be replaced, as well as the busted latching mechanism. Did the shocks behind the bumper get compressed? If so, you'll need those too. All parts should be from Mercedes-Benz. A hood that won't close means someone has to rent you a car today because your car is no longer safe to drive. And yes, the other party also pays the insurance on the rental. Based on your description, I don't see $2K covering it. Lastly, the reason I would do it this way is if the repainted bits peel or fade during my lifetime, Allstate will redo it and give me a rental car while that work is being done.
Another option is to go through your insurance company. They will pay the full amount, give you a rental while it's being repaired (assuming you have the rental option in your policy), and then they will go after the other party. Why do it this way? A torn bumper cover means you need a new bumper cover. That's a brand new, Mercedes-Benz bumper cover. Not used and not some off brand manufacturer. A cracked grill means you need a new grill. A Mercedes-Benz grill assembly. Not used, and not some off brand. The bent frame behind the bumper means that should be replaced, as well as the busted latching mechanism. Did the shocks behind the bumper get compressed? If so, you'll need those too. All parts should be from Mercedes-Benz. A hood that won't close means someone has to rent you a car today because your car is no longer safe to drive. And yes, the other party also pays the insurance on the rental. Based on your description, I don't see $2K covering it. Lastly, the reason I would do it this way is if the repainted bits peel or fade during my lifetime, Allstate will redo it and give me a rental car while that work is being done.
04-28-2014, 03:44 PM
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1999 CLK 320 (W208) 2008 s500 (w221)
Usually, the other party's insurance company will want to see the damage.
Another option is to go through your insurance company. They will pay the full amount, give you a rental while it's being repaired (assuming you have the rental option in your policy), and then they will go after the other party. Why do it this way? A torn bumper cover means you need a new bumper cover. That's a brand new, Mercedes-Benz bumper cover. Not used and not some off brand manufacturer. A cracked grill means you need a new grill. A Mercedes-Benz grill assembly. Not used, and not some off brand. The bent frame behind the bumper means that should be replaced, as well as the busted latching mechanism. Did the shocks behind the bumper get compressed? If so, you'll need those too. All parts should be from Mercedes-Benz. A hood that won't close means someone has to rent you a car today because your car is no longer safe to drive. And yes, the other party also pays the insurance on the rental. Based on your description, I don't see $2K covering it. Lastly, the reason I would do it this way is if the repainted bits peel or fade during my lifetime, Allstate will redo it and give me a rental car while that work is being done.
Another option is to go through your insurance company. They will pay the full amount, give you a rental while it's being repaired (assuming you have the rental option in your policy), and then they will go after the other party. Why do it this way? A torn bumper cover means you need a new bumper cover. That's a brand new, Mercedes-Benz bumper cover. Not used and not some off brand manufacturer. A cracked grill means you need a new grill. A Mercedes-Benz grill assembly. Not used, and not some off brand. The bent frame behind the bumper means that should be replaced, as well as the busted latching mechanism. Did the shocks behind the bumper get compressed? If so, you'll need those too. All parts should be from Mercedes-Benz. A hood that won't close means someone has to rent you a car today because your car is no longer safe to drive. And yes, the other party also pays the insurance on the rental. Based on your description, I don't see $2K covering it. Lastly, the reason I would do it this way is if the repainted bits peel or fade during my lifetime, Allstate will redo it and give me a rental car while that work is being done.
04-28-2014, 03:47 PM
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1999 CLK 320 (W208) 2008 s500 (w221)
Most insurance companies have their own adjusters, either adjusters that work directly for the insurance companies, or third party adjusters. That estimate sounds really cheap. Last year some dink backed into my passenger side door. Cost about 2000 to get that done. Good luck.
) lol anyway the tow truck ripped my spare wheel well flooring and chewed it up! adjuster said he lifted my car up too high and went over bumps so his lift got caught on my car when he released it, it ripped my flooring open! Idk what it is but this car has been jinxed!!!!! 
04-28-2014, 04:22 PM
#6
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About two weeks ago my key lost program with the car so i had to get it towed for a new key to be programmed (got the new chrome key
) lol anyway the tow truck ripped my spare wheel well flooring and chewed it up! adjuster said he lifted my car up too high and went over bumps so his lift got caught on my car when he released it, it ripped my flooring open! Idk what it is but this car has been jinxed!!!!! Trending Topics
04-28-2014, 06:22 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's usually best (e.g. faster) to go through your insurance company. Since the damage was 100% caused by the other known party, they'll handle the process and customer satisfaction and then be reimbursed by the other insurance company. Additionally, your deductible will not apply, as well as no accident against your driving record. Eben though you may not have alternate transportation in your policy, the other insurance company, should pay for a rental while your cars is being repaired.
From your description of the damage, I believe your looking at least, $3,000 to repair and week of alternate transportation.
Don't worry to much about the adjuster's estimate. Once the repair begins, if additionally parts and/or work are found to be needed, the shop will get a supplemental $ amount, which may or may not require a 2nd look by the adjuster.
Most insurance companies have a 'preferred' shop network and if you choose to have your car repaired by one, their repair is customer satisfaction guaranteed (e.g. specially if you find any issue(s) thereafter).
Keep in mind that your car is 15 years old, so if a repair is more than X% of a cars value, most insurance companies will declare the vehicle totaled and only pay out the fair value of the vehicle.
From your description of the damage, I believe your looking at least, $3,000 to repair and week of alternate transportation.
Don't worry to much about the adjuster's estimate. Once the repair begins, if additionally parts and/or work are found to be needed, the shop will get a supplemental $ amount, which may or may not require a 2nd look by the adjuster.
Most insurance companies have a 'preferred' shop network and if you choose to have your car repaired by one, their repair is customer satisfaction guaranteed (e.g. specially if you find any issue(s) thereafter).
Keep in mind that your car is 15 years old, so if a repair is more than X% of a cars value, most insurance companies will declare the vehicle totaled and only pay out the fair value of the vehicle.
04-29-2014, 11:14 PM
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
About two weeks ago my key lost program with the car so i had to get it towed for a new key to be programmed (got the new chrome key) lol anyway the tow truck ripped my spare wheel well flooring and chewed it up! adjuster said he lifted my car up too high and went over bumps so his lift got caught on my car when he released it, it ripped my flooring open! Idk what it is but this car has been jinxed!!!!!
) lol anyway the tow truck ripped my spare wheel well flooring and chewed it up! adjuster said he lifted my car up too high and went over bumps so his lift got caught on my car when he released it, it ripped my flooring open! Idk what it is but this car has been jinxed!!!!! 
The dealer charges like their keys are jewelry, but this is real gold with real diamonds. 
04-30-2014, 12:31 AM
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1999 CLK 320 (W208) 2008 s500 (w221)
05-05-2014, 02:56 PM
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1999 CLK 320 (W208) 2008 s500 (w221)
It's usually best (e.g. faster) to go through your insurance company. Since the damage was 100% caused by the other known party, they'll handle the process and customer satisfaction and then be reimbursed by the other insurance company. Additionally, your deductible will not apply, as well as no accident against your driving record. Eben though you may not have alternate transportation in your policy, the other insurance company, should pay for a rental while your cars is being repaired.
From your description of the damage, I believe your looking at least, $3,000 to repair and week of alternate transportation.
Don't worry to much about the adjuster's estimate. Once the repair begins, if additionally parts and/or work are found to be needed, the shop will get a supplemental $ amount, which may or may not require a 2nd look by the adjuster.
Most insurance companies have a 'preferred' shop network and if you choose to have your car repaired by one, their repair is customer satisfaction guaranteed (e.g. specially if you find any issue(s) thereafter).
Keep in mind that your car is 15 years old, so if a repair is more than X% of a cars value, most insurance companies will declare the vehicle totaled and only pay out the fair value of the vehicle.
From your description of the damage, I believe your looking at least, $3,000 to repair and week of alternate transportation.
Don't worry to much about the adjuster's estimate. Once the repair begins, if additionally parts and/or work are found to be needed, the shop will get a supplemental $ amount, which may or may not require a 2nd look by the adjuster.
Most insurance companies have a 'preferred' shop network and if you choose to have your car repaired by one, their repair is customer satisfaction guaranteed (e.g. specially if you find any issue(s) thereafter).
Keep in mind that your car is 15 years old, so if a repair is more than X% of a cars value, most insurance companies will declare the vehicle totaled and only pay out the fair value of the vehicle.
05-08-2014, 04:59 PM
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm surprised insurance didn't tell you your car was worthless and try to total it based on age and damages. I'm thinking I need an "agreed value" policy at this point. KBB says it's worth nothing, like $3900, but I would not take less than $9K if I did want to sell it.
05-08-2014, 09:19 PM
#15
Senior Member
I find that kbb is garbage when it comes to car value. Plus it doesn't offer a option that rates how COOL the car is. Haha.
05-09-2014, 02:15 PM
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W208 CLK55 AMG, W203 C32 AMG, W163 M Class Sport
Carfax is one of the biggest scams in the used car world. It's really inaccurate outside of finding how many previous owners a car had.
05-09-2014, 02:26 PM
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
I really got burned by not car faxing one car. It had a huge mileage discrepancy, like someone had changed the cluster. The Carfax record clearly showed that it must have had over 200K on it, but it was showing 105K. When I went to flip it everyone would run a carfax and see that, but I never ran it because I usually a good judge. I jumped the gun. I really thought some of the problems that I fixed were strange on a car with such little mileage. It all adds up. So lesson learned, do your carfax or Autocheck on every car!
I asked my insurance (21st Century) if they have agreed value coverage, and they do not.
I asked my insurance (21st Century) if they have agreed value coverage, and they do not.
05-09-2014, 06:26 PM
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W208 CLK55 AMG, W203 C32 AMG, W163 M Class Sport
I really got burned by not car faxing one car. It had a huge mileage discrepancy, like someone had changed the cluster. The Carfax record clearly showed that it must have had over 200K on it, but it was showing 105K. When I went to flip it everyone would run a carfax and see that, but I never ran it because I usually a good judge. I jumped the gun. I really thought some of the problems that I fixed were strange on a car with such little mileage. It all adds up. So lesson learned, do your carfax or Autocheck on every car!
I asked my insurance (21st Century) if they have agreed value coverage, and they do not.
I asked my insurance (21st Century) if they have agreed value coverage, and they do not.
A thorough pre purchase inspection is all that a buyer needs. Never buy a car without putting it on a lift and inspecting it. It would take an incredibly talented body shop to fix damage without the work being visible. Carfax inaccurately lists accidents. There are auction houses that sell specifically wrecked cars to car lots that were not reported on the vehicle history. These shops love doing "2 year" paint jobs with no primer, prep work etc. Just check out that repaired spot in 2 years. Maintenance records from Carfax are even more of a joke.
Anything you got from Carfax about the mileage came from inspections (if the state has them) and title transfers. Miles can be doctored on Carfax too. Have you heard of dealers or sketchy owners unplugging the odometer on the gauge cluster and driving the car?
The only thing Carfax can accurately tell you is the dates titles were transferred and the location they were transferred from. If you believe its good for anything more than that you're a sucker.
05-09-2014, 06:50 PM
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
I've owned my CLK 320 Cabrio since new, which currently has fairly low mileage for a 13 old car and have meticulously maintained it.
Understanding that 12 - 16 year old MB greatly depreciate (e.g. + or - 10% of original cost), mainly due to the high cost of repair(s), I wondered if I should keep my comprehensive (e.g. fire, theft) and/or collision (accident) coverages (vs. self insure).
My carrier is AMICA (e.g. rated highest by Consumer Reports and JD Powers) to inquire further.
They said that they use the NADA values and based on my VIN # and mileage (e.g. provided by the the state DMV (as recorded in annual State inspections).
Currently, the retail value of my car is $8,800 with a trade in value of $6,375 and a final settlement would be based on an adjustors condition assessment (e.g. condition, rust, prior existing damage less any deductibles etc.).
As a result, I decided to continue carrying my full coverage at the required premiums.
BTW, the new cost of my car was around $60,000 and every year I asked why my premiums were not reduced to reflect the vastly reduced deprecated value. There answer was always the same "your car is very expensive to fix/repair" They were spot on.
PS:
I also still carry AMICA's 'road side assistance' for $15/year. While it seems to be the same coverage that MB provides owners, for free, there is a very important difference.
Per MB policy; if you qualify (e.g. a dealer service w/i the last 12 months) is free towing/transport to the nearest dealer, while my carrier will provide the same service, to a place (w/i 50 miles) of my choice. A very small price to pay for huge savings.
While I no longer believe that German Engineering is superior, actually far from it, as a graduate engineer, until recently (e.g. vs Toyota, Honda products), it's just the MB styling that has been timeless and of any value.
For example, the W208 does not have brake wear sensors on the rear brakes (e.g. what what the engineer thinking)......regular dealer inspections at every 10,000 miles?
OK, while there are many ubiquitous faults (e.g. cps, maf, idler pulley etc.), all of which were corrected, DIY inexpensively.
That said, this will be my last MB e.g. (e.g. even though many still believe the brand represents superior engineering and or quality).
However, it doesn't take a genius to understand why both Toyota and Honda offer superior product and retained value.
Understanding that 12 - 16 year old MB greatly depreciate (e.g. + or - 10% of original cost), mainly due to the high cost of repair(s), I wondered if I should keep my comprehensive (e.g. fire, theft) and/or collision (accident) coverages (vs. self insure).
My carrier is AMICA (e.g. rated highest by Consumer Reports and JD Powers) to inquire further.
They said that they use the NADA values and based on my VIN # and mileage (e.g. provided by the the state DMV (as recorded in annual State inspections).
Currently, the retail value of my car is $8,800 with a trade in value of $6,375 and a final settlement would be based on an adjustors condition assessment (e.g. condition, rust, prior existing damage less any deductibles etc.).
As a result, I decided to continue carrying my full coverage at the required premiums.
BTW, the new cost of my car was around $60,000 and every year I asked why my premiums were not reduced to reflect the vastly reduced deprecated value. There answer was always the same "your car is very expensive to fix/repair" They were spot on.
PS:
I also still carry AMICA's 'road side assistance' for $15/year. While it seems to be the same coverage that MB provides owners, for free, there is a very important difference.
Per MB policy; if you qualify (e.g. a dealer service w/i the last 12 months) is free towing/transport to the nearest dealer, while my carrier will provide the same service, to a place (w/i 50 miles) of my choice. A very small price to pay for huge savings.
While I no longer believe that German Engineering is superior, actually far from it, as a graduate engineer, until recently (e.g. vs Toyota, Honda products), it's just the MB styling that has been timeless and of any value.
For example, the W208 does not have brake wear sensors on the rear brakes (e.g. what what the engineer thinking)......regular dealer inspections at every 10,000 miles?
OK, while there are many ubiquitous faults (e.g. cps, maf, idler pulley etc.), all of which were corrected, DIY inexpensively.
That said, this will be my last MB e.g. (e.g. even though many still believe the brand represents superior engineering and or quality).
However, it doesn't take a genius to understand why both Toyota and Honda offer superior product and retained value.
Last edited by Serndipity; 05-09-2014 at 08:13 PM.
05-09-2014, 09:51 PM
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
You got burned because you didn't thoroughly inspect the car or check maintenance records before buying it. That would have told you it had over 200k. It sucks it happened to you but you should have done your homework before buying it.
A thorough pre purchase inspection is all that a buyer needs. Never buy a car without putting it on a lift and inspecting it. It would take an incredibly talented body shop to fix damage without the work being visible. Carfax inaccurately lists accidents. There are auction houses that sell specifically wrecked cars to car lots that were not reported on the vehicle history. These shops love doing "2 year" paint jobs with no primer, prep work etc. Just check out that repaired spot in 2 years. Maintenance records from Carfax are even more of a joke.
Anything you got from Carfax about the mileage came from inspections (if the state has them) and title transfers. Miles can be doctored on Carfax too. Have you heard of dealers or sketchy owners unplugging the odometer on the gauge cluster and driving the car?
The only thing Carfax can accurately tell you is the dates titles were transferred and the location they were transferred from. If you believe its good for anything more than that you're a sucker.
A thorough pre purchase inspection is all that a buyer needs. Never buy a car without putting it on a lift and inspecting it. It would take an incredibly talented body shop to fix damage without the work being visible. Carfax inaccurately lists accidents. There are auction houses that sell specifically wrecked cars to car lots that were not reported on the vehicle history. These shops love doing "2 year" paint jobs with no primer, prep work etc. Just check out that repaired spot in 2 years. Maintenance records from Carfax are even more of a joke.
Anything you got from Carfax about the mileage came from inspections (if the state has them) and title transfers. Miles can be doctored on Carfax too. Have you heard of dealers or sketchy owners unplugging the odometer on the gauge cluster and driving the car?
The only thing Carfax can accurately tell you is the dates titles were transferred and the location they were transferred from. If you believe its good for anything more than that you're a sucker.
The car actually looked very good, I had plenty of people jumping to buy it until they ran the carfax and saw the mileage discrepancy on service records and registrations. I have bought and sold tons of cars, I just didn't want to pay the $30 on a $3000 purchase, my bad. No accident history, I only had to replace regular maint. stuff like bushings, trans mount and service, cat and O2 sensors, and some of the interior parts like the steering wheel and arm rest were really worn. I ended up trading it for another car to a guy that didn't check either.
