AC issues 1999 CLK 320
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Clk 320 1999
AC issues 1999 CLK 320
Hello and thanks ahead of time.
My AC quit (1999 CLK 320 convertible 70k miles) while Idling at a intersection recently.. The car ran rough for a second then Hot air began blowing from the vents.
Its about to be Hot as could be here in Las Vegas so id like to get my Ac back.
The EC light didnt come on although i can toggle it on and off.
I got a single error code of E61 419 clutch?
the compressor does not engage when EC is toggled, and it is quite hard, very hard to turn the compressor itself when the car is off.
maybe the compressor froze?
i have diagnostic values also. they confuse me as the refrigerant i think is non existent yet i can toggle Ec light.
1 110
2 88
3 110
4 111
5 104
6 131
7 0 although when it first quit it was about 8 i believe.
8 88
9 0
10 4.5
20 0
21 7
22 0
23 0
24 14.1
40 8
41 5
42 248
43 14
If I truly am out of refrigerant shouldnt EC stay lit even if pushed?
My AC quit (1999 CLK 320 convertible 70k miles) while Idling at a intersection recently.. The car ran rough for a second then Hot air began blowing from the vents.
Its about to be Hot as could be here in Las Vegas so id like to get my Ac back.
The EC light didnt come on although i can toggle it on and off.
I got a single error code of E61 419 clutch?
the compressor does not engage when EC is toggled, and it is quite hard, very hard to turn the compressor itself when the car is off.
maybe the compressor froze?
i have diagnostic values also. they confuse me as the refrigerant i think is non existent yet i can toggle Ec light.
1 110
2 88
3 110
4 111
5 104
6 131
7 0 although when it first quit it was about 8 i believe.
8 88
9 0
10 4.5
20 0
21 7
22 0
23 0
24 14.1
40 8
41 5
42 248
43 14
If I truly am out of refrigerant shouldnt EC stay lit even if pushed?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 84
From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
According to your codes, (1) it’s 110 degrees inside the car, (2) it’s 88 degrees outside, (3 & 4) both heater cores are about 110 degrees, (5) the temperature at the evaporator is 104 degrees, (6) the coolant is 131 degrees, (7) the refrigerant pressure is zero – which leads me to believe there’s either a big leak somewhere or the switch is bad, (8) the allegedly pressure-less refrigerant is 88 degrees (same temp as the outside air), and the rest doesn’t really matter.
I don’t have my HVAC error codes in front of me, but if you say that code means the clutch is gone, then your 18 year old compressor may have died. If it’s not the compressor, a big leak (hose? condenser?) is much cheaper than a compressor. If you’re a DIY type (and it’s not the compressor), you can charge the system using dye and look for the leak. Then find the leak, fix it, and pay someone to vacuum down the system and recharge it. If you’re a DIY type and it is the compressor, it’s about $450 or so in parts plus whatever you’re charged to vacuum down the system and recharge it. OEM compressors are about $300, the receiver dryer is about $90, and the expansion valve is another $30. In case you’re wondering, the condenser is about $150.
Lastly, if the pressure switch died it could show no pressure and the compressor would disengage. No guess as to whether the refrigerant would end up at ambient temperature.
We’re running a DIY Mercedes AC charge article for the Southwest Star magazine in the next issue, so this is all pretty fresh to me.
I don’t have my HVAC error codes in front of me, but if you say that code means the clutch is gone, then your 18 year old compressor may have died. If it’s not the compressor, a big leak (hose? condenser?) is much cheaper than a compressor. If you’re a DIY type (and it’s not the compressor), you can charge the system using dye and look for the leak. Then find the leak, fix it, and pay someone to vacuum down the system and recharge it. If you’re a DIY type and it is the compressor, it’s about $450 or so in parts plus whatever you’re charged to vacuum down the system and recharge it. OEM compressors are about $300, the receiver dryer is about $90, and the expansion valve is another $30. In case you’re wondering, the condenser is about $150.
Lastly, if the pressure switch died it could show no pressure and the compressor would disengage. No guess as to whether the refrigerant would end up at ambient temperature.
We’re running a DIY Mercedes AC charge article for the Southwest Star magazine in the next issue, so this is all pretty fresh to me.
