Defective Display after instrument pixelfix repair
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 90
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2000 S430L, BMW 530i
Defective Display after instrument pixelfix repair
Oh dear..
I foolishly decided to buy a Pixelfix kit for my CLK55 208 and now I'm in a world of pain! I'd love some advice if you have time
I pulled my display and replaced the ribbon cables using the rather cheap looking Pixelfix ones. Put it all back together and with about 2/3 of the pixels now working I thought oh well. Then came the Defective Display message and the engine light. No instruments work, windows have gone odd and the front fans run all the time (with ignition on but engine not running). Crap!
So I plugged in one of two meters I had and pulled an error code of P203E-004 of No CAN message from instrument cluster... I reset this code but it appears to keep coming back.
So I pulled the display in frustration and removed the ribbon cables from the two outer LCD displays. Put it back together and same result.
I read one poster who suggested the ignition needed to be left on for 30 mins to calibrate after the display had been removed? Haven't tried that. Or, do I need to re-install the cheapo ribbon cables in order to have a chance? Or could it be a poor connection with one of the two large connectors at the back of the display?
Thanks for any comments, I'm really stumped!
James
I foolishly decided to buy a Pixelfix kit for my CLK55 208 and now I'm in a world of pain! I'd love some advice if you have time
I pulled my display and replaced the ribbon cables using the rather cheap looking Pixelfix ones. Put it all back together and with about 2/3 of the pixels now working I thought oh well. Then came the Defective Display message and the engine light. No instruments work, windows have gone odd and the front fans run all the time (with ignition on but engine not running). Crap!
So I plugged in one of two meters I had and pulled an error code of P203E-004 of No CAN message from instrument cluster... I reset this code but it appears to keep coming back.
So I pulled the display in frustration and removed the ribbon cables from the two outer LCD displays. Put it back together and same result.
I read one poster who suggested the ignition needed to be left on for 30 mins to calibrate after the display had been removed? Haven't tried that. Or, do I need to re-install the cheapo ribbon cables in order to have a chance? Or could it be a poor connection with one of the two large connectors at the back of the display?
Thanks for any comments, I'm really stumped!
James
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
I've replaced the ribbon cables and I don't think that's your problem. If I had to guess I'd say one or both of the two plugs that attach to the back of your instrument cluster are not seated properly.
If both plugs are properly seated, the instrument cluster itself may be broken, but unless there's more to this story I have serious doubts that's the problem.
For those with a telecomm background, CAN is a lot like Token Ring. If the instrument cluster isn't plugged in, it's like having a node failure.
If both plugs are properly seated, the instrument cluster itself may be broken, but unless there's more to this story I have serious doubts that's the problem.
For those with a telecomm background, CAN is a lot like Token Ring. If the instrument cluster isn't plugged in, it's like having a node failure.
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 535
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From: Pottstown, PA
'97 S500 Coupe, 2016 AMG S63 Coupe, 2007 Audi Q7
I changed to Led and simple pull out change bulbs (a few times) and reinstalled cluster overnight so cluster was out, started and moved car no error. I agree with MarcusF you have a bigger issue (cluster shouldn't impact Windows) you have nothing to lose by disconnecting the battery and seeing if that clears the fault (temporary fix).
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Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 90
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2000 S430L, BMW 530i
MarcusF is correct again!
I had my cluster in and out more times than a, well..
And somehow the right hand connector was managing to lock in but not make the correct contact. Once I discovered that I was happy as Larry!
Only I discovered one of those silly bits of plastic that show the engine light etc had slipped a teeny bit. So out it came again. Then the fuel needle got a little stuck (I pressed it down a bit too hard) so again..
Then when all was said and done my clock display is better, my temp display has lots more pixels but is still unreadable and the main digital display now has a dim edge to the left - it was perfect before. Live and learn I guess
Thanks for the replies.
I had my cluster in and out more times than a, well..
And somehow the right hand connector was managing to lock in but not make the correct contact. Once I discovered that I was happy as Larry!
Only I discovered one of those silly bits of plastic that show the engine light etc had slipped a teeny bit. So out it came again. Then the fuel needle got a little stuck (I pressed it down a bit too hard) so again..
Then when all was said and done my clock display is better, my temp display has lots more pixels but is still unreadable and the main digital display now has a dim edge to the left - it was perfect before. Live and learn I guess
Thanks for the replies.
