2001 CLK320 Cab restoration
. I looked into replacing them but it was out of the budget since I could only find the parts in Europe.For the resto I replaced the motor with a used one with similar mileage. This is a list of what I replaced. The rear main seal, valve cover gaskets and breather seals, some vacuum lines, exhaust gaskets (when switching manifolds), intake gaskets, AC compressor and drier, trans pan gasket & 13 pin connector, new catalytic converters, new front/rear pads and rotors, cluster ribbon cables, 5 hydraulic cylinders for the top (have not replaced the rear headrest/roll bar cylinder), oil & filter, trans fluid and filter, coolant, new floor mats. I steam cleaned the interior, had dents removed and polished the car.
The car runs and drives very nicely. There are a few small things left to do. I need to replace the drivers front door window seal, the fuel sending unit went out on a long drive, the keyless entry does not work with rf but does with the ir. Trunk key cylinder need lubed and freed up. Cosmetically the drivers seat seams are ripped and the rear bumper could use a repair and paint but those will have to wait. I am currently trying to sell the car because baby #2 came into this world after this project started and a vert is not a very useful car with 2 little kids.
I am probably missing a few things but here are some pics.
Motor when car arrived
When car arrived
Motor out.
Very dirty interior.
Taking interior apart to clean all switches, seats, carpets and vents.
Repaired cylinders
Pump exposed to refill oil resivoir.
Cluster out.
In the middle of the rebuild.
Clean console.
Clean car.
Purdy.
It all works.
You have my total respect. Question, I need to get my inner rear side panels off in order to fix a broken rear window stop. How do you get the panels off (armrest panels for back seats).
Thanks!
Last edited by PKSlice; Nov 18, 2016 at 09:38 PM. Reason: fix typo
I had to fix the broken stop too. Its a stupid design with a plastic edge that breaks, I made my own bracket to fix the issue. Heads up, unless you are super lucky you will probably drop the bracket a few dozen times, it does fall in to lower quarter and can be a ***** to get back out, I had a few choice words for that bracket by the end of the day. It helps to remove the upper window seals and belt moldings. I checked but did not take any pics of that part of the resto, i should have but was just wanting to get this thing done.
Anyway I went to my local MB dealer and asked about the window stops, but they could not find it in the parts diagrams. Maybe it's called something else other than "window stop"?
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The dirt, dog hair, coffee stains and anything else you can imagine was every where. That stuff was in the switches keeping them from moving, console doors wouldn't open/close, just nasty between panels. Much easier to take it all apart and clean every piece. It also made sure I didn't miss anything and didn't have to worry about weird odors.
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Anyway I am stuck with the interior side panel and it's secured at the top edge somewhere... where is that oval with the hidden screw? Is it the 10mm nut hiding inside where the seat belt retracts? Very hard to get at it and I was nervous about undoing it in case it was the wrong one and stuff would let go flying... or is it the little flip cover hole that the rooftop clicks into when closing? I tried prying everywhere but don't see the retaining tabs and was nervous about breaking the part. I will send a pic next. Thanks for any help...!
Last edited by PKSlice; Nov 27, 2016 at 10:48 AM. Reason: adding pic




I have a question: Could you provide more detail on rebuilding the convertible top hydraulic cylinders? Did you do it yourself? If so, where did you source the seals? I have a couple that are leaking...
Anyway I am stuck with the interior side panel and it's secured at the top edge somewhere... where is that oval with the hidden screw? Is it the 10mm nut hiding inside where the seat belt retracts? Very hard to get at it and I was nervous about undoing it in case it was the wrong one and stuff would let go flying... or is it the little flip cover hole that the rooftop clicks into when closing? I tried prying everywhere but don't see the retaining tabs and was nervous about breaking the part. I will send a pic next. Thanks for any help...!
The piece circled has the hidden screw. Push down the oval and you will see tabs on the left and right side. You will have to pull the tabs inward to get the cover off to expose the screw.
There is a 10mm nut under the trunk carpet by the red arrow.
I have a question: Could you provide more detail on rebuilding the convertible top hydraulic cylinders? Did you do it yourself? If so, where did you source the seals? I have a couple that are leaking...
I had Top Hydraulics rebuild the 4 cylinders that move the top and I had Steve at MB hydraulics (he lives about 15 min from me) repair the cylinder on the top cover. Both were easy and great to deal with. Now the removal and install of the 4 cylinders for the top... not easy to deal with.
Last edited by BryanW203; Nov 28, 2016 at 09:49 AM.
This stuff is amazing. I use it on everything even the engine compartment.
http://www.smithtoolsupply.com/Shop_...0piBoCvXrw_wcB
BTW, do you know anything about setting the side windows so they drop about 1/2" when opening the doors? Mine only drop about 1/32" - almost nothing at all. The do go up&down upon exiting, but they don't move much. Resyncing did not help. All other window operations work proper.
BTW, do you know anything about setting the side windows so they drop about 1/2" when opening the doors? Mine only drop about 1/32" - almost nothing at all. The do go up&down upon exiting, but they don't move much. Resyncing did not help. All other window operations work proper.
I have heard it may be the control unit. I have access to a salvage car so I might go steal all the door electronic parts and see if I can get mine to work.
Ill let you know what I come up with if it gets fixed.
Thanks,
Paul




