2001 CLK 430 AMG A/C not working and blowing hot air...help please
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2017
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2001 CLK 430 AMG BLK
2001 CLK 430 AMG A/C not working and blowing hot air...help please
I have a used 01 clk 430 amg. For some reason the A/C is blowing only hot air. When I bought this car, it had a bunch of issues, the EIS wasn't reading they keys correctly, the ac control unit wouldn't work at all. I have been doing a bit of research, and have pulled the A/C codes from the system by pressing the EC and rest buttons. Im not sure what they all mean, but I was hoping someone could tell me what they mean. I tried putting R134A into the system, the one with the gauge on it to measure the pressure. When I did, it wouldn't read any pressure at all, but I was able to still pump the freon into the system. It didn't blow cold air at all even after running it for a while. So I did a bit more research and found out you could turn the cars right side on HI, and the left side on the LO, and press the EC, and rest buttons and the air circulation light would blink, and then press the right side auto button, and it will show a little of codes. I tried clearing those, but a few still show up. Now the ones I got from pressing just the EC and rest buttons without setting the air to HI and LO are:
Ac codes from left to right
1 109
2 111
3 116
4 116
5 114
6 206
7 04
8 116
9 27
10 5.7
11 E
12 E
20 3.2
21 42
22 00
23 32
24 13.3-13.1
40 164
41 91
42 72
43 24
And the other ones I can get if you need them....I live in Arizona, and it is extremely hot, please help me get the ac working again..thanks in advance....😀
Ac codes from left to right
1 109
2 111
3 116
4 116
5 114
6 206
7 04
8 116
9 27
10 5.7
11 E
12 E
20 3.2
21 42
22 00
23 32
24 13.3-13.1
40 164
41 91
42 72
43 24
And the other ones I can get if you need them....I live in Arizona, and it is extremely hot, please help me get the ac working again..thanks in advance....😀
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 604
Likes: 51
LS400
It likely has a good leak if no pressure showed. If its totally empty then it needs a vacuum pulled on it for about 30 minutes, and then see if it holds the vacuum, then the stuff can be added, if there is no vacuum pulled before adding it will not fill enough to work.
All leaks need to be found and fixed, other wise its a total waste to add any refrig to it because it will all disappear again.
All leaks need to be found and fixed, other wise its a total waste to add any refrig to it because it will all disappear again.
Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 170
Likes: 7
2001 Clk55 AMG
I think your hot because your sitting on a box in your driveway because there is no such thing as a clk430 AMG. Don't take offense I'm just playing.
You are showing 4 bar on #7 which lets you know you do have some system charge. These cars use an early style of variable displacement compressor. The displacement is controlled mechanically by a pressure switch on the compressor. It also has an clutch on the pulley. You can visually check if the clutch is working, but the control valve is trickier. You really need to get a set of ac gauges so you can see the relationship between the high and low side.
I had to replace the control valve on my '01 55 a couple of years ago.i could see the clutch was working and the system had pressure, but the high and low side pressures were the same. This lead me to the control valve. After replacing the valve and pulling a vacuum and refill it started to work perfectly.
You are showing 4 bar on #7 which lets you know you do have some system charge. These cars use an early style of variable displacement compressor. The displacement is controlled mechanically by a pressure switch on the compressor. It also has an clutch on the pulley. You can visually check if the clutch is working, but the control valve is trickier. You really need to get a set of ac gauges so you can see the relationship between the high and low side.
I had to replace the control valve on my '01 55 a couple of years ago.i could see the clutch was working and the system had pressure, but the high and low side pressures were the same. This lead me to the control valve. After replacing the valve and pulling a vacuum and refill it started to work perfectly.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 38
From: North of Boston
No time to look right now but you must clear the AC error codes before the compressor will come on...obviously check what error you have.
Do a search on both forums...there are instructions...I posted them a few years back.
Do a search on both forums...there are instructions...I posted them a few years back.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 38
From: North of Boston
...found it....If you don’t know how to get the diagnostic codes
Turn the ignition on, which starts a 20 second timer.
Increase the left side temperature (left red arrow) until left side says “HI” and decrease the right side temperature (right cold arrow) until right side says “LO.” If 20 seconds has passed, switch off the ignition and switch it back on. Your HI/LO settings will be preset. The timer will restart.
Press and hold the “EC” and “REST” buttons simultaneously for at least five seconds.
The screen will go blank. At this point you can forget about the 20 second timer because you are now in diagnostic mode.
Load the first code by pressing the right side “AUTO” button.
If you have any error codes in memory, the screen will show them. On the screen, ‘E’ stands for “error.” If you’ve never done this before, every code the system has logged since it was last cleared will still be present – whether the problem has been repaired or not. You should write down each error code. To list each of the codes, just press the right side “AUTO” button. After writing them all down, I would clear the codes, turn the car off and on, use the AC and see if any codes come back. If they do, the code points to a problem. To clear the codes, press both AUTO switches simultaneously for more than 5 seconds while in diagnostic mode. When the codes are cleared you will see display change to "d and FF". After you turn the ignition switch off, all the codes will be erased.
Turn the ignition on, which starts a 20 second timer.
Increase the left side temperature (left red arrow) until left side says “HI” and decrease the right side temperature (right cold arrow) until right side says “LO.” If 20 seconds has passed, switch off the ignition and switch it back on. Your HI/LO settings will be preset. The timer will restart.
Press and hold the “EC” and “REST” buttons simultaneously for at least five seconds.
The screen will go blank. At this point you can forget about the 20 second timer because you are now in diagnostic mode.
Load the first code by pressing the right side “AUTO” button.
If you have any error codes in memory, the screen will show them. On the screen, ‘E’ stands for “error.” If you’ve never done this before, every code the system has logged since it was last cleared will still be present – whether the problem has been repaired or not. You should write down each error code. To list each of the codes, just press the right side “AUTO” button. After writing them all down, I would clear the codes, turn the car off and on, use the AC and see if any codes come back. If they do, the code points to a problem. To clear the codes, press both AUTO switches simultaneously for more than 5 seconds while in diagnostic mode. When the codes are cleared you will see display change to "d and FF". After you turn the ignition switch off, all the codes will be erased.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 209
From: Boston North Shore
2001 CLK320 Cabrio
cindyclk......as always, an insightful forum contribution.
With respect to the HVAC system, people only seem to find their way to the current HVAC parameters and attempt to diagnose/repair w/o getting/understanding the source of failure.
Enclosed in this note, are a couple thumbnails, that a MB qualified tech would use to not only access the DTCs, but to understand what they mean.
With respect to the HVAC system, people only seem to find their way to the current HVAC parameters and attempt to diagnose/repair w/o getting/understanding the source of failure.
Enclosed in this note, are a couple thumbnails, that a MB qualified tech would use to not only access the DTCs, but to understand what they mean.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 38
From: North of Boston
cindyclk......as always, an insightful forum contribution.
With respect to the HVAC system, people only seem to find their way to the current HVAC parameters and attempt to diagnose/repair w/o getting/understanding the source of failure.
Enclosed in this note, are a couple thumbnails, that a MB qualified tech would use to not only access the DTCs, but to understand what they mean.
With respect to the HVAC system, people only seem to find their way to the current HVAC parameters and attempt to diagnose/repair w/o getting/understanding the source of failure.
Enclosed in this note, are a couple thumbnails, that a MB qualified tech would use to not only access the DTCs, but to understand what they mean.
Many years ago I ran into problems with AC...had to do a lot of HW and got help from this forum. A MB service rep at dealership told me I needed a new compressor when I was not getting cold air (after purging and refilling coolant). The error code delete worked fine and blew cold immediately after. If the coolant gets too low, the safety mode kicks in to protect the compressor. That fix cost me absolutely zero...stealership wanted mid $2K to fix.
