2002 Pass Window comes down 2”
01-01-2018, 08:41 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2002 Pass Window comes down 2”
Happy New Year!
I’ve got an issue with my CLK 320 passenger window. I had to get the for replaced due to someone switching lanes into me recently. The body shop used my old regulator and everything else when putting everything back together. Now, the passenger window will go all the way up, but automatically comes down 2” once the window reaches the top. I’ve search online and done the resyncing steps I’ve found to try to fix it, but have had no luck.
Am I missing something? What else can I try? I’ve picked up the car and asked the shop not to put the door panel back on so I can fix it. They’re to of ideas. I tried the resync with the top up and with the top down, with the same result (none). Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I can take and post a video if that will help. The window goes down all the way and stays, it goes all the way up and come back down 2”.
Thanks in advance!
I’ve got an issue with my CLK 320 passenger window. I had to get the for replaced due to someone switching lanes into me recently. The body shop used my old regulator and everything else when putting everything back together. Now, the passenger window will go all the way up, but automatically comes down 2” once the window reaches the top. I’ve search online and done the resyncing steps I’ve found to try to fix it, but have had no luck.
Am I missing something? What else can I try? I’ve picked up the car and asked the shop not to put the door panel back on so I can fix it. They’re to of ideas. I tried the resync with the top up and with the top down, with the same result (none). Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I can take and post a video if that will help. The window goes down all the way and stays, it goes all the way up and come back down 2”.
Thanks in advance!
01-02-2018, 01:40 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you. I'll do this again this way at home tonight. I found out something else, the shop didn't use my old window regulator, they used the new one that came with the new door (used from junk yard). I'll attempt the resync this evening and report back.
01-02-2018, 07:44 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update: Still didn't work. I even disconnected the battery in hopes I would reset it and then be able to re-sync it. The driver's side window is fine. Passenger side will go down all the way and stay, however when it goes up, it will then move back down about an 1 or 2. Whether I raise the window all the way to the top, or just a little, it will then immediately move down ~2". What should be my next steps?
01-02-2018, 09:53 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Did the shop use your original window controller or the controller from the donor car?
There were some new window features added in later production CLKs and the controllers are not compatible (e.g. version coded specific).
To incorporate the various window features, the MB window system does not use traditional limit switches to start/stop the motors. The widow motors start/stop using Hall Effect sensors, to count the revolutions of the motor shaft. When you perform the resynch, lowering the window resets the counter to zero and turns off the motor. Then fully raising the window, with the roof up and the door shut, counts the # of shaft revolutions to close the window and turn off the motor. Thereafter, the programing within the window controllers, modifies the shaft rotation count to provide direction control and various widow features (e.g. lowering the door windows 1/2", releasing them from the weather/wind tight roof channel upon opening the doors, express window control etc.).
It seems that as soon as you fully raise the window, it automatically drops 2", which is a safety feature (e.g. intended to lower the window, to prevent fingers becomingcaught, if the windows encounter an obstruction when being raised). However, this should only occur if the window senses an obstruction, prior to reaching the full motor shaft count for a closed window.
There were some new window features added in later production CLKs and the controllers are not compatible (e.g. version coded specific).
To incorporate the various window features, the MB window system does not use traditional limit switches to start/stop the motors. The widow motors start/stop using Hall Effect sensors, to count the revolutions of the motor shaft. When you perform the resynch, lowering the window resets the counter to zero and turns off the motor. Then fully raising the window, with the roof up and the door shut, counts the # of shaft revolutions to close the window and turn off the motor. Thereafter, the programing within the window controllers, modifies the shaft rotation count to provide direction control and various widow features (e.g. lowering the door windows 1/2", releasing them from the weather/wind tight roof channel upon opening the doors, express window control etc.).
It seems that as soon as you fully raise the window, it automatically drops 2", which is a safety feature (e.g. intended to lower the window, to prevent fingers becomingcaught, if the windows encounter an obstruction when being raised). However, this should only occur if the window senses an obstruction, prior to reaching the full motor shaft count for a closed window.
The following users liked this post:
legokcen (01-02-2018)
01-02-2018, 10:17 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Did the shop use your original window controller or the controller from the donor car?
There were some new window features added in later production CLKs and the controllers are not compatible (e.g. version coded specific).
To incorporate the various window features, the MB window system does not use traditional limit switches to start/stop the motors. The widow motors start/stop using Hall Effect sensors, to count the revolutions of the motor shaft. When you perform the resynch, lowering the window resets the counter to zero and turns off the motor. Then fully raising the window, with the roof up and the door shut, counts the # of shaft revolutions to close the window and turn off the motor. Thereafter, the programing within the window controllers, modifies the shaft rotation count to provide direction control and various widow features (e.g. lowering the door windows 1/2", releasing them from the weather/wind tight roof channel upon opening the doors, express window control etc.).
It seems that as soon as you fully raise the window, it automatically drops 2", which is a safety feature (e.g. intended to lower the window, to prevent fingers becomingcaught, if the windows encounter an obstruction when being raised). However, this should only occur if the window senses an obstruction, prior to reaching the full motor shaft count for a closed window.
There were some new window features added in later production CLKs and the controllers are not compatible (e.g. version coded specific).
To incorporate the various window features, the MB window system does not use traditional limit switches to start/stop the motors. The widow motors start/stop using Hall Effect sensors, to count the revolutions of the motor shaft. When you perform the resynch, lowering the window resets the counter to zero and turns off the motor. Then fully raising the window, with the roof up and the door shut, counts the # of shaft revolutions to close the window and turn off the motor. Thereafter, the programing within the window controllers, modifies the shaft rotation count to provide direction control and various widow features (e.g. lowering the door windows 1/2", releasing them from the weather/wind tight roof channel upon opening the doors, express window control etc.).
It seems that as soon as you fully raise the window, it automatically drops 2", which is a safety feature (e.g. intended to lower the window, to prevent fingers becomingcaught, if the windows encounter an obstruction when being raised). However, this should only occur if the window senses an obstruction, prior to reaching the full motor shaft count for a closed window.
When I raise the window fully, it immediately moves down 2" whether I still have the button pressed or not. Also, if I raise the window partly and release the button, the window immediately moves down 2" as well.
01-02-2018, 11:02 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Nice save regarding your original part and since you have interior door panels off, very easy DIY.
Another thought - if your windows don't close fully and re-synching doesn't work - especially if they start going up, stop, then retract partially - lubricate the tracks with silicone spray!!
Also including a document detailing how the power windows work on the CLK cabriolet.
Another thought - if your windows don't close fully and re-synching doesn't work - especially if they start going up, stop, then retract partially - lubricate the tracks with silicone spray!!
Also including a document detailing how the power windows work on the CLK cabriolet.
Last edited by Serndipity; 01-02-2018 at 11:16 PM.
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01-02-2018, 11:43 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
This is fantastic! I have seen some of their videos to pull the panel off. I'll try this tomorrow and hopefully it'll work. I really appreciate it! I'll try it and report back!
01-04-2018, 08:38 AM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update:
Well, I swapped the controller in from my old door last night to no avail. I made a video to show exactly what is happening. Unfortunately, no change. Goes down all the way, or partly depending on button press. Will not go down all the way with the second click.
Goes up with the up button, but will then immediately move down ~2" when the button is released. If the window goes up all the way, it will move down ~1" once it hits the top of the window travel.
Please see the video, any additional help would be greatly appreciated.
Well, I swapped the controller in from my old door last night to no avail. I made a video to show exactly what is happening. Unfortunately, no change. Goes down all the way, or partly depending on button press. Will not go down all the way with the second click.
Goes up with the up button, but will then immediately move down ~2" when the button is released. If the window goes up all the way, it will move down ~1" once it hits the top of the window travel.
Please see the video, any additional help would be greatly appreciated.
01-04-2018, 09:43 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I did. One thing I found is that once I did this; I heard a little squeal when the window was almost up. I made another video. I think it is happening due to the black molding on the top part of the door. Please take a look at the video and let me know what you think. What is the best way to remove this piece so I can verify that it is the issue?
I may have to play around with my old door I have to figure this out.
01-05-2018, 08:59 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I pulled off the piece i thought was making the squeaky sound. The same thing is happening.
The window goes all all the way up, I see the side of the panel move a little like the window wants to still go up, and then it comes down the 1” or so.
Wonder if if there is a limit switch or anything out of alignment that makes the window want to go up just a tad more.
I tried to do the window sync again to no avail. Do I need to disconnect and then reconnect the battery each time?
The window goes all all the way up, I see the side of the panel move a little like the window wants to still go up, and then it comes down the 1” or so.
Wonder if if there is a limit switch or anything out of alignment that makes the window want to go up just a tad more.
I tried to do the window sync again to no avail. Do I need to disconnect and then reconnect the battery each time?
01-08-2018, 03:58 PM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Finally Fixed! And I feel kind of dumb, but the shop couldn't figure it out either. With the door panel off, the door closed button on the side wasn't being met. The car didn't know the door was closed. So, I finally got it, and am relieved. I should have gotten that earlier. 
As an engineer, I'm embarrassed.
As an engineer, I'm embarrassed.
The following 2 users liked this post by legokcen:
CLKGeek (11-09-2019),
Serndipity (01-08-2018)
01-08-2018, 06:48 PM
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
What makes this forum great are people who follow up on their OP with a solution and closure....thank you!
As mentioned in the 2nd post, the window resynch must be done with both the soft top and the doors closed.
However, what seems strange, is that if the 'door closed switch' was not being actuated, the dome light should have remained on, when the door was physically closed.
Also, when exiting my car, if the door was left slightly ajar when closed, upon opening the door thereafter, my anti-theft alarm siren would sound.
As mentioned in the 2nd post, the window resynch must be done with both the soft top and the doors closed.
However, what seems strange, is that if the 'door closed switch' was not being actuated, the dome light should have remained on, when the door was physically closed.
Also, when exiting my car, if the door was left slightly ajar when closed, upon opening the door thereafter, my anti-theft alarm siren would sound.
01-09-2018, 10:59 PM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I appreciate all the help. Thank you very much. I should have known the door wasn't registering closed. The dome light would have triggered me, and should have, but I had turned it off because I was messing around with some things inside with the door open prior to this. But, needless you say, folks like you and this board make life easier for the rest of us. I'm not new to cars, I love wrenching on them, I'm new to MB though so I'm learning new things. I love these cars.
01-26-2018, 11:44 AM
#16
Member
I hope this is the issue I have. Been looking for it for a while. So far nothing helped me. Going to test it and respond back.
11-09-2019, 02:38 AM
#18
Junior Member
12-30-2019, 11:15 AM
#19
Finally Fixed! And I feel kind of dumb, but the shop couldn't figure it out either. With the door panel off, the door closed button on the side wasn't being met. The car didn't know the door was closed. So, I finally got it, and am relieved. I should have gotten that earlier. As an engineer, I'm embarrassed.
As an engineer, I'm embarrassed.To make a long story short- bought a 430 cab w/ broken passenger window.(theft). Got a new one and put it in..I hear scraping when raising and flexes around motor at the top. Also doesn't stay up..I have the panel off but the door light goes off. Do you think that me having the panel off is the issue?
