Rough ride on stock CLK 320!
#1
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Hello guys,
I have got a stock 2001 CLK 320 springs & shocks . and i am experinceing very rough and harsh riding . there is no comfort at all . i feel every single bump on the road. My brother got 99 CLK 430 ,and he is running smoth and soft.
My question is : Do you guys recomand changing my stock shocks to Bilstein or koni? which one is softer?
I need something softer than the stock . i will not change my springs.
I do not care about performance .All i need is very soft ride. i am sick of this harsh ride.
Please help
I have got a stock 2001 CLK 320 springs & shocks . and i am experinceing very rough and harsh riding . there is no comfort at all . i feel every single bump on the road. My brother got 99 CLK 430 ,and he is running smoth and soft.
My question is : Do you guys recomand changing my stock shocks to Bilstein or koni? which one is softer?
I need something softer than the stock . i will not change my springs.
I do not care about performance .All i need is very soft ride. i am sick of this harsh ride.
Please help
#2
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2001 CLK 430
I did this before for the alpine which requires hand-break and foot brake twrice to activate DVD. Here is what I did and it works:
Go to Radio Shack and buy two type of switches (this costs you about $5 or less):
A. A regular on/off switch. This one connect to the ground to simmulate the hand-brake.
B. A "push/realese switch . This one connect to the hot wire (normally it's 12V from the battery) which simulate the foot-break.
So after you're done with those connections, all you need to do is turn "A" switch on and then press "B" switch twice to activate your DVD.
Hope this help,
TD430CLK.
Go to Radio Shack and buy two type of switches (this costs you about $5 or less):
A. A regular on/off switch. This one connect to the ground to simmulate the hand-brake.
B. A "push/realese switch . This one connect to the hot wire (normally it's 12V from the battery) which simulate the foot-break.
So after you're done with those connections, all you need to do is turn "A" switch on and then press "B" switch twice to activate your DVD.
Hope this help,
TD430CLK.
#3
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Originally Posted by TD430CLK
I did this before for the alpine which requires hand-break and foot brake twrice to activate DVD. Here is what I did and it works:
Go to Radio Shack and buy two type of switches (this costs you about $5 or less):
A. A regular on/off switch. This one connect to the ground to simmulate the hand-brake.
B. A "push/realese switch . This one connect to the hot wire (normally it's 12V from the battery) which simulate the foot-break.
So after you're done with those connections, all you need to do is turn "A" switch on and then press "B" switch twice to activate your DVD.
Hope this help,
TD430CLK.
Go to Radio Shack and buy two type of switches (this costs you about $5 or less):
A. A regular on/off switch. This one connect to the ground to simmulate the hand-brake.
B. A "push/realese switch . This one connect to the hot wire (normally it's 12V from the battery) which simulate the foot-break.
So after you're done with those connections, all you need to do is turn "A" switch on and then press "B" switch twice to activate your DVD.
Hope this help,
TD430CLK.
As far as the OP, OEM shocks are as soft as your going to get. You need to have the car diagnosed by a dealer to see why the ride is rough. Off the top of my head it could be your tires, ball joints, steering shock, sway bar bushing, control arm bushings.. Any combination of these can result in a rougher ride. Oh also check your oil..
#4
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a Black
that radio post is interesting but....
Did you car ride better before or did you just get it? The Interesting thing is that normally shocks and springs get mushier if they wear out, not tighter (ie causing a stiffer ride). If you put aftermarket springs and shocks your ride will get stiffer then stock, not softer. The softest set up is stock (well I guess you could find some aftermarket that rides like a Towncar, but I doubt it.)
Check your tires for proper inflation. What size rims and tires do you have? If your bro has 17/18 with regular sidewalls and you have 18/19 with small sidewalls that will make a big difference.
Finally, take it to a reputable shop (ie look for the issues in the previous post or)..you may have something wedged btn the engine compartment and the suspenstion. My wife happened to run over a 1 foot piece of a 4x4 that somehow got wedged in there (in her old 530i).
Man did the car ride like crap all of a sudden! But w/o taking the tires off, I could not see it!!!
good luck
Check your tires for proper inflation. What size rims and tires do you have? If your bro has 17/18 with regular sidewalls and you have 18/19 with small sidewalls that will make a big difference.
Finally, take it to a reputable shop (ie look for the issues in the previous post or)..you may have something wedged btn the engine compartment and the suspenstion. My wife happened to run over a 1 foot piece of a 4x4 that somehow got wedged in there (in her old 530i).
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
good luck
#5
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Originally Posted by J Lucas
Is your post a joke? It has absolutely nothing to do with the original posters question.
As far as the OP, OEM shocks are as soft as your going to get. You need to have the car diagnosed by a dealer to see why the ride is rough. Off the top of my head it could be your tires, ball joints, steering shock, sway bar bushing, control arm bushings.. Any combination of these can result in a rougher ride. Oh also check your oil..
As far as the OP, OEM shocks are as soft as your going to get. You need to have the car diagnosed by a dealer to see why the ride is rough. Off the top of my head it could be your tires, ball joints, steering shock, sway bar bushing, control arm bushings.. Any combination of these can result in a rougher ride. Oh also check your oil..
#6
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by CLKVegas
Did you car ride better before or did you just get it? The Interesting thing is that normally shocks and springs get mushier if they wear out, not tighter (ie causing a stiffer ride). If you put aftermarket springs and shocks your ride will get stiffer then stock, not softer. The softest set up is stock (well I guess you could find some aftermarket that rides like a Towncar, but I doubt it.)
Check your tires for proper inflation. What size rims and tires do you have? If your bro has 17/18 with regular sidewalls and you have 18/19 with small sidewalls that will make a big difference.
Finally, take it to a reputable shop (ie look for the issues in the previous post or)..you may have something wedged btn the engine compartment and the suspenstion. My wife happened to run over a 1 foot piece of a 4x4 that somehow got wedged in there (in her old 530i).
Man did the car ride like crap all of a sudden! But w/o taking the tires off, I could not see it!!!
good luck
Check your tires for proper inflation. What size rims and tires do you have? If your bro has 17/18 with regular sidewalls and you have 18/19 with small sidewalls that will make a big difference.
Finally, take it to a reputable shop (ie look for the issues in the previous post or)..you may have something wedged btn the engine compartment and the suspenstion. My wife happened to run over a 1 foot piece of a 4x4 that somehow got wedged in there (in her old 530i).
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
good luck
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#9
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99CLK320,
FWIW: DON'T GO TO THE DEALER!!!!! TRUST ME!!!!! I recently took my car to the dealer to get an alignment. I installed Vogtland springs, Bilstein Sport shocks, MB camber bolts, thinner spring pads and rear adjustable camber arms. I had a coupon for $100 so I thought the alignment was gonna cost me $99.95. Well...they called me to say that my front control arm bushings were shot, I needed a new fuel filter and a value cover gasket was leaking and it needed tightening and the work would only cost me $1195.00. NOT! I took the car to an indy/sprint car race shop my son recommended and I watched as they looked over the front end. The tech asked me if the front end popped when I turned and it did. He said it was the bearings not the control arm bushings. They are going to replace the front bearings, with my parts install new Porterfield brake pads front and back as well as put my Brembo rotors on and do a sport alignment for $650.00. Now that doesn't address your rought ride issue; my point is that MB dealers, given what one might think the typical profile of MB owner, would charge exhorbitant prices for parts and labor thinking that their clients are wealthy and don't give a damn, mechanically uneducated or just plain stupid and they can charge their own bookrate and parts costs. The control arm bushing that were not bad according to the indy, when I asked the MB service mgr what the parts cost was he said $450.00. Probably their entire control arm cost. My response, "that's absurd! I can buy bushings online for under $100 a side. (I found polyurethan bushing for $50.00 a side) I will be out to pick up the car." When I got the car the srvc mgr had a grin on his face like "ya got me." I will still buy parts from the dealer because they are fairly competitive depending on what they are but I will never take my car to the dealership in Lincoln, NE for any repair reason unless it is for a Star diagnostic that I can't find anywhere else. Lesson learned.
DISCLAIMER: I'm sure not every MB dealership operates in this manner. Just relating my experience.
DISCLAIMER: I'm sure not every MB dealership operates in this manner. Just relating my experience.
Last edited by dlbehrns; 07-14-2011 at 01:06 PM.
#10
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CLK 430
What is your tire pressure? On my CLK 430 the tire pressure has to be 36psi on the rears and 32psi on the fronts. Anything higher and the ride feels as you have described above.
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2005 CLK55 COUPE
Hello guys,
I have got a stock 2001 CLK 320 springs & shocks . and i am experinceing very rough and harsh riding . there is no comfort at all . i feel every single bump on the road. My brother got 99 CLK 430 ,and he is running smoth and soft.
My question is : Do you guys recomand changing my stock shocks to Bilstein or koni? which one is softer?
I need something softer than the stock . i will not change my springs.
I do not care about performance .All i need is very soft ride. i am sick of this harsh ride.
Please help
I have got a stock 2001 CLK 320 springs & shocks . and i am experinceing very rough and harsh riding . there is no comfort at all . i feel every single bump on the road. My brother got 99 CLK 430 ,and he is running smoth and soft.
My question is : Do you guys recomand changing my stock shocks to Bilstein or koni? which one is softer?
I need something softer than the stock . i will not change my springs.
I do not care about performance .All i need is very soft ride. i am sick of this harsh ride.
Please help
#13
Super Member
Thread Starter
Man that was long time ago!
I recall replacing the 4 shocks to Bilstein heavy duty and got new spring pads in all 4 corners I do not remember what the numbers on the pads was, but I think it was the thickest pads available for the application,
All of that had changed the ride quality dramatically and removed the stiffness.
I recall replacing the 4 shocks to Bilstein heavy duty and got new spring pads in all 4 corners I do not remember what the numbers on the pads was, but I think it was the thickest pads available for the application,
All of that had changed the ride quality dramatically and removed the stiffness.
#14
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2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Replace lower control arm bushings
Replace engine mounts
Replace lower ball joints
Re-pack front wheel bearings
Replace outer tie rod ends
Flush transmission fluid and change filter
Change engine oil and filter
The stealership wanted a modest $2,975. They wanted almost $1,000 just to change the engine mounts. Ther repair book called for the parts to cost $160 each and the labor time to be 1.5 hours. I bought engine mounts for $160 for the pair and did the job myself in an hour and fifteen minutes. When I mentioned that to the service mangler he offered me a job.
The rest of the work took me (a relatively slow mechanic) most of the day and cost about $350 in parts. The way I see it? I haven't made $2,500 a day for a long, long time.
And the M-B service departments can, for the most part, pound sand.
#15
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clk 430
Heavy Duty
Why heavy duty, and not regular shocks? I would think heavy duty, more stiff? Just asking.
Last edited by maxxwell22; 04-27-2013 at 09:36 PM. Reason: more information
#17
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99CLK320,
this brings up an interesting point: which Bilstein shocks are stiffer, the HDs or the Sports? I have the Sports and my ride sucks on bumpy roads however, I also have Vogtland springs.
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clk 430
Well im pretty sure all is stock on the car. My mechanic says the car ran so long without any major issues the previous owner didn't change much, and things are just stating to wear out, so new shocks are a start on the ride ,along with new tires. Just bought some Continental tire,s on my mechanics advice, for a quieter ride. havent asked him yet about shocks. Wanted some input from the forum before i ask him.
Last edited by maxxwell22; 04-27-2013 at 10:29 PM. Reason: more information.
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#20
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The Bilstein HD's are noticeably firmer than stock .You definately have a lot more road feel, but nothing I would consider harsh. The HD's soak up medium and large road bumps and pot holes better than stock...nothing crashes through like it did before...just a nice firm damp and a muted thump. The HD's are slightly harsher than stock on small bumps and ruts at low speeds.
#21
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clk 430
Ride
Hey just changed tires to Continental Extreme contact DWS, and the road noise has improved significantly, to almost none. I couldn't believe the change so much, now time for the shocks in about a month. My mechanic was right, all 4 tires for $670.00. Balanced and all w/a 60,000 mile warranty.
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