CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Help!! Crank no start, done all the usual suspects..

Old Oct 4, 2022 | 08:19 PM
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clk 320
Help!! Crank no start, done all the usual suspects..

Hi everyone, thanks for your time and sorry about the incoming rant.. Have been reading over all the forums related to this issue and getting nowhere.

About 12 days ago my 01 CLK 320 just cut out on me, dash lit up like a Christmas tree, lost throttle etc, had to limp to the side of the road.. Tried getting a jump but nothing. Eventually pushed it to my work parking lot.

The only thing different I did that day was use my heater for the first time and I think it’s caused this..
When it was on, before it cut out, everything seemed a little dimmer inside, like it was struggling to draw power.

Have putin a new battery, CPS, fuel pump and filter, checked fuses and relays etc, and still just cranks. Plugs 5 months old, tested for spark, it’s there. I’ve got gas, about 1/2 tank. Oils good all that.. But, I’m not getting any fuel pressure at the rail when I try at the valve. I’ll get a little squirt after it sits for a while but that’s about it.

OBD only gives me a P0450 related to EVAP pressure sensor switch, which is the purge valve I believe.. but as far as I can tell that shouldn’t cause an issue like this right?

When I crank it over the dash flickers a lot, and my fuel gauge dives below 0 while it’s trying to start, which has never happened. It’s always started on first crank progression.

It’s like something has shorted out and my fuel delivery / ignition system isn’t getting enough power..

Could a bad Fuel tank pressure sensor? cause these kind of major problems..

Can a bad alternator? cause this type of problem even with a brand new battery..

Should I try jumping the fuel pump relay? It seems to be fine, pump fires in 2nd, have tested it etc, but maybe I’m missing something..

Is there somewhere I should focus on to maybe test for a faulty ground? or something like that. I’m not the electrical man, but I can do basics.

Is it possible to see if ECU went bad? I can still pull codes, everything is still operating accessory wise, CEL lights etc coming on in 2nd position..

What am I missing? Maybe I’m overlooking something basic, a sensor or something..

I’m already a few hundred bucks into it and dreading having to tow it to the stealers, so any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old Oct 4, 2022 | 09:45 PM
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2005 E55 amg
same thing is happening with my E55 right now. not sure what the issue is currently
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 10:31 AM
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If you are not getting pressure at the rail...and you replaced the pump and filter...I would guess that you accidentally attached one of the filter (or pump) hoses incorrectly.
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Old Oct 11, 2022 | 09:13 AM
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'01 CLK 430 cab, '04 SL500 (230K miles)
I would start by bypassing the fuel pump relay and go from there. That will eliminate a lot of variables.
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Old Oct 11, 2022 | 09:21 AM
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'01 CLK 430 cab, '04 SL500 (230K miles)
Also check out this thread. This is my crank no start from a few years ago, a lot of good info on there.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ml#post8640857
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 04:24 PM
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clk 320
She’s Fixed!!

Okay. So following up for anyone that has this issue. Ended up taking it to the stealership for service and it ended up being fuel pump related. They put in an Original pump and filter, replaced the fuel lines, brackets and clamps. Hard wired it back to spec. She’s on the road.

I had already installed a Spectra fuel pump and new filter before I had taken it in, wired it up etc, as I was pretty sure it was the issue..but since I was unable to clear all the codes and reprogram the ECU, it wouldn’t accept it and therefore wouldn’t pressurize the system / engage the ignition sequence. That’s what they told me at least..

So it was about $2000(CAD) for all the service, parts, diagnostics etc. Pretty rough, especially with the way the world is right now, but happy to have it back.

At least they filled it up with gas 😂.

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