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See, I have now reached that tipping point where I cannot decide whether ignoring this thread will have more long-term life benefits than the short-term amusement I get from responding to you just to see what you will post next. You may well know more about oil than I do. It would be difficult to know less. A guy in unwashed clothing who spends every waking hour in his basement knows far more about video games than I do. Should I be in awe of him? You said, in your nakedly condescending way, that someone else's use of "compatible" told you all you need to know. Well, you are a person who describes choices about motor oil as a display of "personal fortitude." You are right. At first, I thought that I use M1 because I know it's ok, and since it's ok, why would I invest any time trying to study if something else might be ok too. But now I realize it's a matter of fundamental bravery. A characteristic I lack. So I bow to your superior knowledge of all things oily. But please, at least consider staggering a load of laundry between oil changes.
I think what I enjoy most about this thread are the giant photos of oil. It makes them easier to see with my presbyopic eyes. Plus, jugs of oil are just oddly attractive. Not in a sexual way, but something beyond aesthetically pleasing, like the shape of a Mercedes-Benz vehicle. Well, except the CLS Shooting Brake. It's just damned ugly, like someone stepped on an R-Class.
It was Mr. Kool-Aid in post #5 that did it for me. Have not seen him in years. Brought a nostalgic tear to my eye. But then I began deep research on whether Tang or Crystal Light are just as good, and it ruined the whole thing.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
The fable of synthetic oil leaking comes from the early days of "true" synthetic, "PAO" Gruppe IV polyalphaolefin base oil, which shrink automotive seals and cause serious leakage. When formulated for engines, it's blended with Gruppe V aliphatic esters which promote seal swelling. Esters are used in the "high mileage" oils now as a seal additive.
This method of counteracting the seal shrinkage didn't work properly and was abandoned with the change to all hydrocracked base oil brought up to Gruppe III specifications, from the G-II and G-II+ used in "dino" or "semi synth". All of those crude oil derived base oil are considered seal neutral, along with the new GTL gas-to-liquid from Shell SOPUS...Pennzoil Platinum. A truly synthesized substance, falling into Gruppe V "other". This is what synthetic oil is now, no more PAO except in Redline and AMSoil and used in smaller quantities as an additive usually to improve cold performance.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Another thing to know about European oil specs, they are intended for Autobahn driving at sustained high speeds, and climbing mountains, which can overheat the oil. So, a "buffer" is built in with extra visc (HT/HS >3.5cP). So when it heats up a little, the visc remains firmly in the "safety zone". This is what we typically see in a 5w-40.
In USA driving, we simply don't heat up the oil the same way. We have a colder climate, and more short trip driving, so an oil that's thinner overall suits us better, a 5w-30 instead. The new Euro spec oils are all a thick 5w-30 anyway, VW 504/507....I could list 100 of them. Better suited to climate and driving style, even 5w-20 oils are used by many mfg, mostly to help mpg, with normal or lower wear. A Shell study found a thicker oil film in the upper cyl with 20 weight oil...interesting.
My UOAs there are with light 30 weight, in a flashed turbo engine, super low wear.
I suggest again Googling Dr. Hass. Skip around till you find where he's run 5w-20 in his new supercars with factory support. Lower wear rates than his friends same-same Ferraris on 5w-40 Ferrari Spec Shell Helix Ultra (slack-wax base, lol) I have some in my basement....lots of oil in the basement.
I've given up a lot on this thread, and got nothing in return, expect a question about synth oil and seals from 25 years ago.
The only reason no one is responding the way you intended is your obnoxious attitude. Attacking people doesn't lead to scientific discussion and respect. You seem quite knowledgeable but no one is going to stick around to find out. There are plenty of in depth oil discussions on this forum. You will find the bulk of them in the various amg subforums.
Another thing to know about European oil specs, they are intended for Autobahn driving at sustained high speeds, and climbing mountains, which can overheat the oil. So, a "buffer" is built in with extra visc (HT/HS >3.5cP). So when it heats up a little, the visc remains firmly in the "safety zone". This is what we typically see in a 5w-40.
In USA driving, we simply don't heat up the oil the same way. We have a colder climate, and more short trip driving, so an oil that's thinner overall suits us better, a 5w-30 instead. The new Euro spec oils are all a thick 5w-30 anyway, VW 504/507....I could list 100 of them. Better suited to climate and driving style, even 5w-20 oils are used by many mfg, mostly to help mpg, with normal or lower wear. A Shell study found a thicker oil film in the upper cyl with 20 weight oil...interesting.
My UOAs there are with light 30 weight, in a flashed turbo engine, super low wear.
I suggest again Googling Dr. Hass. Skip around till you find where he's run 5w-20 in his new supercars with factory support. Lower wear rates than his friends same-same Ferraris on 5w-40 Ferrari Spec Shell Helix Ultra (slack-wax base, lol) I have some in my basement....lots of oil in the basement.
I've given up a lot on this thread, and got nothing in return, expect a question about synth oil and seals from 25 years ago.
You are correct, you have given up a lot on this thread, some of it about oil. That part I will take the liberty of summarizing as follows: Use Mobil 1.
In USA driving, we simply don't heat up the oil the same way. We have a colder climate, and more short trip driving, so an oil that's thinner overall suits us better, a 5w-30 instead. The new Euro spec oils are all a thick 5w-30 anyway, VW 504/507....I could list 100 of them. Better suited to climate and driving style, even 5w-20 oils are used by many mfg, mostly to help mpg, with normal or lower wear. A Shell study found a thicker oil film in the upper cyl with 20 weight oil...interesting.
You clearly never lived in Europe. Summers here are a lot hotter than in Europe, especially Germany and the rest of northern Europe.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
To reply in general to the private messages I'm getting..
The best way to think about this is that two changes of "dino" or truck oil works better than one change of Mobil 1 for the same cost. I reuse the filter for a second oil change, standard procedure for many auto mfg.
Short trip driving, especially in cold, the oil never gets heated long enough to burn off the condensed water and excess fuel that accumulates. There's no magic formula Mobil 1 that is better than physically dumping that crap out; old oil and water mixed and warmed....yuk. BUT these guys think it's better to continue on to 13k because of magic oil.
No, not only is the oil contaminated, physically and chemically damaged, the actual friction modifiers that gives oil it's extra slick quality...it wears out. That's why new oil feels smoother and slicker. I just got a 5 mpg bump from my first oil change of this 60k car.
So, what I recommend is timed intervals of 6 months. Guys who use the extractor, can just pump it out and refill with fresh oil. I don't care too much which kind, but a good truck oil like Rotella is extremely cost effective at about $30 an oil change. I recommend the 10w-30 for most climates, maybe half 15w-40 if you're in a hot climate.
There is also Rotella 5w-40 synth for people who want to go a full year or want a direct substitute for Mobil 1 0w-40. I say at whatever point it's a good idea to try a different kind of oil to clean out from long changes of Mobil 1.
Some people like the smoothness and quiet of a thicker oil. Mobil 1 0w-40 is not known for quiet or smoothness.
Again with the condescending remarks. What is really funny is the map you posted before your edit clearly proves your point is incorrect. And this one is useless.
What does that map have to do with temperature? Maybe some of those are "dino" climates.
If you are actually getting private messages, I imagine they say something like "please go away" or "are you married?" and your response, predictably, is about oil.
06-20-2017, 01:23 PM
