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GT-1 Euro Motor Oil meets or exceeds the performance requirements of API
Service Category SN for the SAE 5W-40 viscoisty and API Service Category
SL for the SAE 5W-30 viscosity, and is approved for service ll under leading
European OEM speci cations
Applications
• Audi: gasoline engines (except the R8 GT & R8 V10) and diesel engines
without DPF, standard drain only
• BMW: most pre-2002 model-year gasoline engines, except M-series & Z8
that require an SAE 10W-60 viscosity grade oil, and diesel engines with or
without DPF
• Mercedes-Benz: most pre-2011 model-year gasoline engines; diesel engines
with or without DPF except most BlueTEC® diesels with the OM 642 engine
• Volkswagen: gasoline engines and diesel engines without DPF, standard
drain only
• Passenger cars, light trucks and sport utility vehicles that do not require an
ILSAC GF-5 oil for warranty coverage, especially when operating under
severe driving conditions
GT-1 Euro Motor Oil is licensed for:
• API Service SL - SAE 5W-30
• API Service SN - SAE 5W-40
GT-1 Euro Motor Oil meets or exceeds the requirements of:
• ACEA A3/B4-12
• API Service CF
• Renalut RN 0700 RN0710 - SAE 5W-40
• PSA B71 2296 - SAE 5W-40
GT-1 Euro is fully approved for service ll under the following OEM speci cations:
• BMW Long Life LL-01
• Mercedes Benz Sheet 229.50
• Volkswagen Standard 502.00 & 505.00
• Porsche A40 - SAE 5W-40
Also a diesel-oriented extended drain reduced SAPS oil. imo it's not good for extended drains with poor quality USA gasoline
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
This part tells us....
GT-1 Euro Motor Oil is licensed for:
• API Service SL - SAE 5W-30
The oil is formulated with higher additive levels than permitted by the newer API SM and SN specs (for 5w-30).
API still allows higher additives for 10w-40 in the newer specs, but limits them for 30 weights to under 1000ppm approx. So, when you consider a jug of 10w-40 and it says API SM or SN, it still may have high additive levels, higher than same brand 30 weights, as much as 1500ppm
Now, when you see a 30 weight still carrying an older API spec, you know why. Even though it's technically irrelevant it still tells us something about the oil.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Being "better" is a terribly vague assertion.
It's like, you could have NASA engineer some super lube at a super price, but with no real-world benefit. Millions of cars go billions of miles on plain old dino 5w-30 with no ill effects.
Synth is more of a niche market...temp extremes, extended changes or turbo apps.
Take extended changes... that's a matter of owner preference. With all the vague terms of the article, no real data is offered, except the $64 question. Again and again....take the 5000 miles vs 10,000 miles comparo. On one hand, if you're going 10k, you might want synth, although Honda, Toyota and other clean burning engines can go 10k on dino.
10k on synth is not going to do your engine any favors compared to 2 changes of 5000 miles on dino, no how, no way. There is very little difference in new oils anyway....a few degrees here or there....to what benefit for a owner who is willing to change their oil after a few months or a few 1000 miles? Not to mention guys who don't even begin to utilize the benefits of synth.....changing at 3000 miles with Mobil 1 or whatever.
I don't even want to labor the point, maybe to agree that if you are doing FULL length mfg ocis of way over 5000 miles, ok sure....if you want the shop to use synth for $20 more...no probs, there may even be a slight benefit.
BUT compared to doing twice as many changes on dino....dino is WAY better as long as the engine doesn't have a turbo or you are not in Arctic conditions...not much difference in cold cranking between dino and synth 5w-30 anyway bro.
If someone wants to post the CCS of dino and synth 5w-30 of the same brand: please. do. so. Before it's settled, check out Motorcraft 5w-20 or 5w-30 that is $14 a jug. It's excellent in cold, so where is the real world benefit, not just a comparison of specs, what is going to happen to the engine if I do 5000 miles on synth or 5000 miles on dino???? Not any difference, you just wasted money. Feel the need to go 10k on that synth to get your money's worth....you're still failing because 2 dino changes of 5k would work better.
I could post pics of spotless engines that had nothing but dino out past 200k. A clumsy Business Insider article can't change that.
Show me the pics of sludged engines at mfg recommended changes with recommended dino oil...you won't find them.
"AAA found that synthetic oil outperformed conventional oil by an average of nearly 50 percent in its independent evaluation"
...define "outperformed"
“Oil protects critical engine components from damage and AAA found that synthetic engine oils performed an average of 47 percent better than conventional oils in a variety of industry-standard tests,”
Keyword: "tests"....not actual engines
Industry tests are pass/fail....any oil that's not passing isn't certified. All oils meet the industry specs and pass the required tests. In fact, "synthetic" oils rarely carry any special test sequence certifications, just sleepy old API SL, SM, SN etc.
If an oil like PZ Platinum, SynPower et al are so superior, what "test" result can we refer to??? What certs on the label assure us it passed any tests beyond the plain old API???
“With its superior resistance to deterioration, AAA’s findings indicate that synthetic oil is particularly beneficial"
The term "deterioration" is child-like in it's sophistication to the point of being comical....it is not a technical term and doesn't refer to any actual quality that can be tested. "resistance to deterioration"....what a joke.
“It’s understandable that drivers may be skeptical of any service that is nearly twice the cost of the alternative,” continued Nielsen. “While a manufacturer-approved conventional oil will not harm a vehicle’s engine, the extra $30 per oil change could actually save money in the long run by protecting critical engine components over time.”
ok...umm, which components, how, where, why? Nothing in this study is comparing the 2x expensive synth to twice as many conventional dino changes....for the same cost. Isn't that an obvious comparison to make? This article fails to address the obvious question, after introducing cost as a factor...how about MORE dino changes for the same cost???? Can someone point out this subject? I must have missed it.
Ok, we finally have the reasoning behind this pitch-piece for synth oil---
"Another recent AAA survey found that two-thirds of U.S. drivers do not trust repair facilities, with most citing concern over the recommendation of unnecessary services. Those looking for a trusted repair facility are urged to consider one that meets AAA’s high standards, including, technician certifications, ongoing training, financial stability, facility cleanliness, insurance requirements, rigorous inspections and customer satisfaction through the AAA Approved Auto Repair (AAR) program. To locate a shop in your area, visit AAA.com/AutoRepair."
They want you to use AAA certified shops and spend extra on synth oil. One reason people might not spend extra for the synth change is they think the shop will just use dino anyway. THIS is what happened with Mercedes FSS and the sludge in VW/Audi engines... my female friend got frequent "Mobil 1" changes at the corner garage in her A4 1.8T and got sludged anyway. The shop used the synth requirement to charge her extra and put in dino anyway. Imagine if she had a Honda and asked for synth....the shop would laugh and put in dino, and tag an extra $50 on the bill. Another reason to DIY, maybe use an extractor to keep it easy.
"AAA’s engine oil research focused on eight industry-standard ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) tests to evaluate the quality of both synthetic and conventional engine oils in terms of shear stability, deposit formation, volatility, cold-temperature pumpability, oxidation resistance and oxidation-induced rheological changes. At the time of testing, all tested oils were licensed by the American Petroleum Institute and advertised to meet the International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee’s GF-5 specifications. When selecting an oil, it is critical to reference the vehicle’s owner’s manual to ensure that the oil meets the exact specifications for that particular engine."
Ok, they all pass the same tests....PASS.
"AAA’s full research report, fact sheet and additional supporting materials can be found at NewsRoom.AAA.com"
ok, no. It's just the same empty article.
“It’s understandable that drivers may be skeptical of any service that is nearly twice the cost of the alternative,” continued Nielsen. “While a manufacturer-approved conventional oil will not harm a vehicle’s engine, the extra $30 per oil change could actually save money in the long run by protecting critical engine components over time.”
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
This page is a bit more on target....except for the leaking and it being "thinner". It's the same visc at op temp and only slightly thinner in cold (same grade) If you think an oil that 2% thinner is going to leak, remember this is at temps where the oil is 1000x times thicker...is it going to leak out at freezing temps??? lol.
"Synthetic oil versus conventional mineral oil
Synthetic oil
Synthetic oil
Many newer cars require synthetic oil, as it offers better protection for the engine. The advantage of synthetic oil is that it can withstand higher temperature and can work longer without losing its lubricating qualities. Synthetic oil doesn't get thicker at below-zero temperatures and provides better engine lubrication at a cold start. Using synthetic oil makes perfect sense if you have a low-mileage or turbo engine or often drive under severe conditions such as high temperatures, excessive load or long intervals without an oil change. However, using synthetic oil in high-mileage engines is not always worth the extra cost. Since synthetic oil is "thinner," a high-mileage engine filled with synthetic oil is more likely to develop leaks or run noisier.
What is the right oil change interval when using synthetic oil? This is a pretty heated debate. The synthetic oil lasts longer but what about the products of engine wear? The moving parts inside the engine still wear, whether regular or synthetic oil is used. If you drive longer between the oil changes, the products of wear mix with oil and lessen its lubricating ability. On top of this, they clog up the oil filter reducing the oil flow that further increases friction. All this means that it makes sense to keeping the oil change intervals close to what recommended by your car manufacturer even with synthetic oil."
"Maintenance tips for turbocharged engine
Turbocharged engine
Chevrolet Cruze 1.4L turbo engine.
A turbocharger pumps more air into the engine boosting the engine power without increase in the engine volume. A turbocharger is powered by very hot exhaust gases, but the turbine shaft is lubricated by engine oil. This means that engine oil in a turbo engine must be capable of withstanding much higher temperatures. For this reason, premium synthetic oil is the most suitable for a turbocharged engine. If you turbocharged engine uses mineral oil, make sure to have the oil changes done regularly, as mineral oil carbonizes much faster in a turbocharged engine. When you stop a turbocharged car after hard driving (speeding, towing, etc.) don't shut the engine off right away; let it idle for a while to cool down the turbocharger. Very long uphill driving under constant load can also overheat the turbocharger. .
Oil additives
Engine oil additive Oil additives is a controversial topic and while some people swear by them, car manufacturers usually don't recommend using any additives in their cars. Over the years we had tried several products in different engines. From our experience, some oil additives showed very little effect, but others actually worked well. For example, we had a four-year old Honda Accord that was consuming a lot of oil between oil changes. Since the engine overall was in a good shape, we suspected that the oil rings were stuck in their grooves due to carbon build-up. We tried an oil additive that was said to help free sticking oil rings; and it actually worked. After this, the car did not consume any oil between the oil changes."
Common examples of internal lubricants include fatty alcohols, esters (low esterification), and EVA wax. External lubricants provide metal release and help reduce process temperature. Common examples of external lubricants include PE waxes, paraffin, metal soaps, esters (high esterification), amides, and fatty acids. Buy industrial lubricant in Saudia
As for oil, I try to use only a quality product that has been proven over the years. For my diesel cars, I use Shell Rotella or Mobile 1. These are well-known manufacturers that have never let me down. Also here you can see https://casperoilchange.com/15w-40-diesel-oils/ and compare their characteristics, it is very convenient
You drive Audi's so are no doubt much more familiar with the inner working of your engine's wear, broken parts, and funky engineering than the average MB owner. I'm sure you've had to make a study of anything that will make them last a little longer and run a little farther.
07-12-2017, 01:02 AM
