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My 2007 CLK350 convertible doesn't have the SRS tag, and I need to replace the door control module... I tried to follow a youtube video but it doesn't work the same in mine..
Originally Posted by funkyllama
Cliff note 1: If your window is rattling, pull the rubber plugs on the bottom side of the door, see if are missing any bolts. If you are, that might very well be the reason why.
Cliff note 2: If you want to remove the door panel, then read on.
I have had my CLK for almost 2 months now. My driver side window is rattling when I drive over the bump. It is very annoying consider that CLK is quiet (well, compare to my Subaru) and that the rattling noise is exceptionally loud because of it. Also, I was not able to close the door smoothly, it takes quite an effort to close the door. After doing some search on the board, and really did not find much info except going to the dealership. Unfortunately, I do not have extended warranty so I was left with no choice but DIY.
After I did all that, I finally realized that I have very limited access to the windows regulator to search for the rattling. So I was about to give up and either to live with the rattling, or go to the dealership and bend over. BUT, I got curious with all the rubber plugs on the bottom side of the door, and I decided to pull them out. Little do I know, behind those rubber plugs are the windows regulator adjust/secure bolts. I also found the cause of the rattling as well. I was missing 1 nut, which cause the window regulators to bounce freely. Attachment 384107
I put another nut in there, and the noise is gone, and the door can now shut tightly and smoothly was well.
If you wind the window down to 80% open you can see where the bottom conrner is secured (or not in my case) with a star bolt. This is self-tapping and can easily be tightened using the right tools (or a pair of mole-grips) to stop the window from rattling.
I'd post a nice pic to show you but got so carried away with how my repair had gone, it's all back in one piece now - sorry.
Albeit 14 years late, thanks - I read this last night and sorted out the rattle in my car which has been annoying me for 2 years. If that self rapper is loose, you can actually 'lift' the side of the glass pane up by a good cm.
A standard (small!) socket fits on that bolt perfectly.
Spooky that you should resurrect this thread. I was reading it only the other day because the rattle I get when I shut a door with the window open is very un-Mercedes and annoys the hell out of me.
Timmyboy, great post thanks. I'm interested in how you removed the door interior trim panel. A while ago I replaced the power windows control panel (broken switch), but along the way I found I could not remove the door trim panel (with the last "pull back and up" manoeuvre), despite having removed all clips, handle connector etc. etc. exactly as per the WIS instructions. I eventually was able to replace the switch panel by working from below the with the trim panel propped out to give (just) enough room. So can you advise of any final tricks in getting the panel off please? I stopped when the forces being applied by me felt too big. Thanks.
I've had the door cards off before to replace the silver trim for wood and used this YT video as a guide. Unlike your CLK, mine is pre-facelift but hopefully the same procedure.
When everything is unscrewed lifting the panel from the top of the door does need a bit of a tug. Certainly more than in the video but I'd guess he's had his off before to aid the filming. It also needs careful positioning when refitting. It's very easy to have the top of the door card not quite right.
I used that exact same video Rich has posted, both times I've had the door card off - and found the same experience both times which is very similar to what the video shows.
In my case, I also concluded too much upward force was being applied and the door card was in danger of snapping.
Once all the bolts/screws were off and the retaining plastic poppers unpopped on both sides and the bottom (so the door card is free to flap/swing at the bottom, still stuck to the door at the top) I gently forced the top of the door card, still with the horizontal rubber strip which runs from left to right and down the inner door panel attached, of the top of the door - then let the door sit on the plastic trays you can see in my photo (important to have some support, so you don't stress/tear the rubber). It is then fairly easy to pull that same rubber strip DOWN all along the top, where it will be stuck to the door card. The rubber is then free and can be balanced on the top of the door panel, leaving the door card to move away.
The 2nd time I did it (a few days ago) I found it far, far easier when re-assembling everything to first lay the rubber strip in exactly the correct position on top of the door - and then force/push the door card back into the correct little channel it needs to sit it. The first time I tried last year, I fixed the top rubber strip back to the door card BEFORE fitting back to the door - and it is quite difficult to judge exactly where it needs to be, to make sure everything is lined up - needed a couple of attempts.
Timmyboy thanks for this. I hadn't seen the video before - and it certainly would have helped me! As usual for many, doing the same job over again makes it seem like it was really just a piece of cake!
I've used this forum many, many times over the 6+ years of maintaining and repairing my CLK, and the community is one of the great things about owning a CLK.
Starting the process here to hopefully fix the rattle in my passenger door.
It was almost dark, cold, parked on the street, and I forgot my phone, but I pulled 3 plugs and only felt a bolt in one, and I did not feel a nut on it.
Should there be a second bolt to check for a nut?
Hoping this works but I am also worried what happened to the missing nut(s)? Is it rattling around in there, what is the best way to find it?
i was about to spend loads of money on the rattle and i cant believe a simple 10mm nut stoped the rattle... amazing.. thanks a million. i also have a funny noise that i think comes from where the cabriolet roof joins the body of the car aby advice on stoppinf the slight rattle.
I realize you are probably not around anymore, but perhaps someone else can clarify to this amateur, me, what a 10 mm nut is.
I went to the store and bought a box that said M10, that was way too big, so I went back and bought M8, and that seemed too big as well.
I got home and found this chart. Do I need M6?
And why can't they just call it 10mm, why Mx?
I am working blind with my hands underneath, not seeing what I am doing.
Thank you
Last edited by Sixcarbs; Nov 25, 2024 at 03:57 PM.
When a nut or bolt is stated as "M10" or M8" or whatever, it is referring to the screw thread diameter, not to to size of the outer hexagon (where a wrench would fit). So, an M10 nut could require a 15, 16 or 17 mm wrench. If it requires a 10 mm wrench, then the thread is probably something like an M5 or M6 thread, and such a nut would be sold as an M5 or M6 nut, not an M10.
I believe this may be the origin of your doubt. Just trying to help.
Well, got the right nut, M6. Here is my before and after. I did not have a torque wrench. I cautiously tightened with a socket and breaker bar by hand. It did not seem to have a lot of thread below the bottom of the nut after I was done. I will double check it in a few days. I just used an ordinary washer.
It does seem quieter. Now I am hearing other sounds, some of which were my box of tools in the car.
I have parts coming for the glove box next week which is hanging on by a thread and definitely another source of sounds. Once that is bolted on properly I can see where I stand. I am wondering if I need rear springs even though my shop just said they did all the suspension that needed to be done. Will also have them check motor mounts and transmission mounts again.
Last edited by Sixcarbs; Nov 26, 2024 at 11:43 AM.
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