Service B Questions - Building a DIY - Searched the forums already
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Joined: Oct 2008
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CLK
Service B Questions - Building a DIY - Searched the forums already
Hey guys,
I've decided to complete most of my service alerts on my own, or at least most of what i can. I've obtained a copy of the service manual in a pdf format and began to read it through. I found how to complete most of the things including the filter changes both for cabin and engine. Im going to be writing up a do it your self Service B thread to explain how you can complete each of these steps without spending $500 on a dealer. Here is the things i came across that i did not understand:
-Check Driveshaft flex discs ( Where do i find these? I know that they are tightened by a bunch of bolts and to test if they are worn, you should look out for holes and major breaks) I do not know exactly where to find it and how to get to it to replace it, i'm wondering if any one can help me out.
- Activated Charcoal Filter, i know that in some cars this filter is underneath the glovebox. I'm also aware that the cabin filter is located where the battery is in the front. My question is where is the charcoal filter and is it the same thing as the cabin filter?
- -Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots - Where do i find these exactly and how do i test if they are still okay or need replacement
- - Check conditions of steering mechanical components and rubber boots -Also the same question, how do i check and where is it?
- Check condition of poly-V-belt - Is that the main belt on the engine? Where would i find
- For my last question is there any way for me to check these fluid levels:
Brake system 4210
Power steering
Windshield washer system
Thank you guys i would appreciate the help and i think that after i'm done many will find this useful
I've decided to complete most of my service alerts on my own, or at least most of what i can. I've obtained a copy of the service manual in a pdf format and began to read it through. I found how to complete most of the things including the filter changes both for cabin and engine. Im going to be writing up a do it your self Service B thread to explain how you can complete each of these steps without spending $500 on a dealer. Here is the things i came across that i did not understand:
-Check Driveshaft flex discs ( Where do i find these? I know that they are tightened by a bunch of bolts and to test if they are worn, you should look out for holes and major breaks) I do not know exactly where to find it and how to get to it to replace it, i'm wondering if any one can help me out.
- Activated Charcoal Filter, i know that in some cars this filter is underneath the glovebox. I'm also aware that the cabin filter is located where the battery is in the front. My question is where is the charcoal filter and is it the same thing as the cabin filter?
- -Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots - Where do i find these exactly and how do i test if they are still okay or need replacement
- - Check conditions of steering mechanical components and rubber boots -Also the same question, how do i check and where is it?
- Check condition of poly-V-belt - Is that the main belt on the engine? Where would i find
- For my last question is there any way for me to check these fluid levels:
Brake system 4210
Power steering
Windshield washer system
Thank you guys i would appreciate the help and i think that after i'm done many will find this useful
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 154
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From: Los Angeles
2014 GL450
Maybe an independent shop can check the items for you at less cost than the dealer.
Sorry to agree with Klinh but if you do not know what these things are it is likely you will not know if they are in good or bad condition when you find them.
Sorry to agree with Klinh but if you do not know what these things are it is likely you will not know if they are in good or bad condition when you find them.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2008
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CLK
Well telling what i do not know is obvious fellas :-P Just because i do not know where it is, does not mean i can't check it if there is a reasonable explanation on how to find it and see if it is okay.
I'm trying to avoid going to other shops, thats why im learning this on my own. I'm new to the clk and i want to figure out it out.
I'm trying to avoid going to other shops, thats why im learning this on my own. I'm new to the clk and i want to figure out it out.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 384
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From: DMV
W209 500
For all the questions you said, you don't have to worry much. If you take your car to service A or B or C the dealer or the indie will usually do an inspection for you. They will tell you if something is wrong. Actually don't take it to the dealer, find a good Indie. And your car is pretty smart, the computer may tell you when stuff fails too. When something gonna fail, it's gonna fail, you can't stop it. So just do your fluid checks and that's pretty much all you need.
Your brake fluid is under the cover on the top right side of your engine.
Steering as far as I remember, the location is pretty obvious.
Windshield washer? who cares man, just add it when there's nothing coming out. I think even Hyundai cars have a windshield washer low indicator, so MB prob have it also.
Your brake fluid is under the cover on the top right side of your engine.
Steering as far as I remember, the location is pretty obvious.
Windshield washer? who cares man, just add it when there's nothing coming out. I think even Hyundai cars have a windshield washer low indicator, so MB prob have it also.
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Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 541
Likes: 22
From: USA
10 speed bicycle
These are at the rear of the trans, and the rear diff...
Your car does not have one
Theses are all under the car at the front wheel location areas...hard to check with out a lift, or at least raising the car off the ground.
All this is extremely basic stuff, honestly if you can not locate any of this, you really should not be poking around under the hood.
It might be worth the extra money to take it to someone who knows what they're doing.
Your car does not have one
It might be worth the extra money to take it to someone who knows what they're doing.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2008
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CLK
Your car does not have one
I understand that by not knowing these basic locations i should not touch anything. I'm sure that you had to go through some schooling before you knew where it is so please we all need to start somewhere, i'm just asking nicely for some help.
Thank you,
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CLK
Steering as far as I remember, the location is pretty obvious.
Last edited by michaelnovikov; Feb 12, 2010 at 07:09 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 384
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From: DMV
W209 500
Our cars use dot 4 +, it's best to pick up some fluids from the dealer. If not, just pick up some dot 4 brake fluids.
I can't remember where the steering reservoir is, I can check for you tomorrow.
I can't remember where the steering reservoir is, I can check for you tomorrow.
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CLK
I also did some research on the poly v belts, just to clarify this is the belt that has the multi v shaped marks on the inside of it right? Its also flat on the outside. Slight cracks are usually nothing to worry about but if i notice major cracks and wearing then i should be replacing it, is this all correct.
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C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
Where would this obvious location be if you dont mind me asking. Is it located in the left hand side of the hood with a black cap and a white see through container? To what level should the steering fluid be? As far as the break fluid goes, thats located right on top of the master cylinder right? What type should i use? I know most cars use .3 and it should be an amber color. I also know that i should fill it up about half an inch before the edge. Is this all info correct, if not please do correct me.
OMG........
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CLK
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
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C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,632
Likes: 150
C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
Didn't need to replaced on the Clk 500 yet but I did replaced them on my Clk 430 and CL 55. When I did it, the hardest part were removed the plugs coil without breaking it because I didn't have the plug coil puller. I used my hands hands to pull it out and it won't come out. The only way I were able to get it out were by using the open wrench 17mm to pry it out. Or you can spent around $30-$40 for the plug coil puller. The 2 plugs on the back each side of the engine is the hardest one to removed. Anyone that want to try it, do the back one first or don't waste your times. If you can do that, then the rest is very easy.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,632
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C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
Hey guys,
I've decided to complete most of my service alerts on my own, or at least most of what i can. I've obtained a copy of the service manual in a pdf format and began to read it through. I found how to complete most of the things including the filter changes both for cabin and engine. Im going to be writing up a do it your self Service B thread to explain how you can complete each of these steps without spending $500 on a dealer. Here is the things i came across that i did not understand:
-Check Driveshaft flex discs ( Where do i find these? I know that they are tightened by a bunch of bolts and to test if they are worn, you should look out for holes and major breaks) I do not know exactly where to find it and how to get to it to replace it, i'm wondering if any one can help me out.
Under the car, between the tranny and rear differentail, you have a drive shaft. The flex disc connect one end of the drive shaft to the tranny and the other end to the rear differential. The flex disc is there to absorbed the sudden power transfer from the tranny to the rear differential that turn/spin the wheels. The flex disc is rubber that will crack due to heat/abuse. When it crack, the first sign, it will cause major vibration from the drive shaft due to mis-alingment on the shaft and the worse case, dis-connect the tranny from turning/spinning the wheel. It a little hard to inspect it because the exhaust system is in the way plus you need to jack the car completely of the ground so that you can turn the rear wheel to spin the flex disc 360 degree for a complete inspection.
- Activated Charcoal Filter, i know that in some cars this filter is underneath the glovebox. I'm also aware that the cabin filter is located where the battery is in the front. My question is where is the charcoal filter and is it the same thing as the cabin filter?
I don't think we have the on our car
- -Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots - Where do i find these exactly and how do i test if they are still okay or need replacement
As for axles ball joints, our car is rear wheel drive only, so it in the back. It the black rubber that go between the differential and the wheel drive shaft. In reality, you can't really inpect the axle ball joint unless you remove the rubber boots. Usually when the ball joints is bad, the first sign to go is the rubber boots. The rubber boots is design to hold the grease to lube the joint. When the rubber crack/damages, the lube is lost and the joint will go bad due to no lubrication.
- - Check conditions of steering mechanical components and rubber boots -Also the same question, how do i check and where is it?
The steering mechanical is under the engine between the 2 front wheels. There's one rubber boot each side of the steering. Again, you can't inpsect the internal part seal because of the rubber boots. So when it bad, the first sign to go is the rubber boot.
- Check condition of poly-V-belt - Is that the main belt on the engine? Where would i find
The poly-V-belt is just the named of the belt itself. On our car, there's only one belt that running everything. Just make sure that it does not have any crack on it. Btw, when inpsect, look on the inside (the groove) NOT the out side of the belt for cracks.
- For my last question is there any way for me to check these fluid levels:
Brake system 4210
Power steering
Windshield washer system
First, left side is the "drive side" and "right side" is the passenger. The brake fluid reservior (clear color) is on the driver side right under the windshield and next to the drive side strut/shock. There's a black plastic cover that you need to remove to see it. The fluid level should be
at the top level mark or in between the 2 marks on the reservior bottle/container. The fluid level should NEVER be below the bottom mark or air will get in your system. When the fluid level is low and your system does not have a leak, it because the brake pad is wearing down. The power steering reservior (brown color) is on the driver side right next to the oil cap, oil filter housing and under the black airbox tube. The level should be at the top mark or in between the two mark at all time. And winshield washer reservior (clear color with blue cap) is right next to the power steering reservior. Just fill it up with washer fluid until it spill out. NEVER fill it with just water alone. In winter time the pump will freezed and damages. The pump is under and on the side of the reservior bootle.
Thank you guys i would appreciate the help and i think that after i'm done many will find this useful
I've decided to complete most of my service alerts on my own, or at least most of what i can. I've obtained a copy of the service manual in a pdf format and began to read it through. I found how to complete most of the things including the filter changes both for cabin and engine. Im going to be writing up a do it your self Service B thread to explain how you can complete each of these steps without spending $500 on a dealer. Here is the things i came across that i did not understand:
-Check Driveshaft flex discs ( Where do i find these? I know that they are tightened by a bunch of bolts and to test if they are worn, you should look out for holes and major breaks) I do not know exactly where to find it and how to get to it to replace it, i'm wondering if any one can help me out.
Under the car, between the tranny and rear differentail, you have a drive shaft. The flex disc connect one end of the drive shaft to the tranny and the other end to the rear differential. The flex disc is there to absorbed the sudden power transfer from the tranny to the rear differential that turn/spin the wheels. The flex disc is rubber that will crack due to heat/abuse. When it crack, the first sign, it will cause major vibration from the drive shaft due to mis-alingment on the shaft and the worse case, dis-connect the tranny from turning/spinning the wheel. It a little hard to inspect it because the exhaust system is in the way plus you need to jack the car completely of the ground so that you can turn the rear wheel to spin the flex disc 360 degree for a complete inspection.
- Activated Charcoal Filter, i know that in some cars this filter is underneath the glovebox. I'm also aware that the cabin filter is located where the battery is in the front. My question is where is the charcoal filter and is it the same thing as the cabin filter?
I don't think we have the on our car
- -Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots - Where do i find these exactly and how do i test if they are still okay or need replacement
As for axles ball joints, our car is rear wheel drive only, so it in the back. It the black rubber that go between the differential and the wheel drive shaft. In reality, you can't really inpect the axle ball joint unless you remove the rubber boots. Usually when the ball joints is bad, the first sign to go is the rubber boots. The rubber boots is design to hold the grease to lube the joint. When the rubber crack/damages, the lube is lost and the joint will go bad due to no lubrication.
- - Check conditions of steering mechanical components and rubber boots -Also the same question, how do i check and where is it?
The steering mechanical is under the engine between the 2 front wheels. There's one rubber boot each side of the steering. Again, you can't inpsect the internal part seal because of the rubber boots. So when it bad, the first sign to go is the rubber boot.
- Check condition of poly-V-belt - Is that the main belt on the engine? Where would i find
The poly-V-belt is just the named of the belt itself. On our car, there's only one belt that running everything. Just make sure that it does not have any crack on it. Btw, when inpsect, look on the inside (the groove) NOT the out side of the belt for cracks.
- For my last question is there any way for me to check these fluid levels:
Brake system 4210
Power steering
Windshield washer system
First, left side is the "drive side" and "right side" is the passenger. The brake fluid reservior (clear color) is on the driver side right under the windshield and next to the drive side strut/shock. There's a black plastic cover that you need to remove to see it. The fluid level should be
at the top level mark or in between the 2 marks on the reservior bottle/container. The fluid level should NEVER be below the bottom mark or air will get in your system. When the fluid level is low and your system does not have a leak, it because the brake pad is wearing down. The power steering reservior (brown color) is on the driver side right next to the oil cap, oil filter housing and under the black airbox tube. The level should be at the top mark or in between the two mark at all time. And winshield washer reservior (clear color with blue cap) is right next to the power steering reservior. Just fill it up with washer fluid until it spill out. NEVER fill it with just water alone. In winter time the pump will freezed and damages. The pump is under and on the side of the reservior bootle.
Thank you guys i would appreciate the help and i think that after i'm done many will find this useful
Hope that will help.
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 541
Likes: 22
From: USA
10 speed bicycle
- -Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots - Where do i find these exactly and how do i test if they are still okay or need replacement
As for axles ball joints, our car is rear wheel drive only, so it in the back. It the black rubber that go between the differential and the wheel drive shaft. In reality, you can't really inpect the axle ball joint unless you remove the rubber boots. Usually when the ball joints is bad, the first sign to go is the rubber boots. The rubber boots is design to hold the grease to lube the joint. When the rubber crack/damages, the lube is lost and the joint will go bad due to no lubrication.
As for axles ball joints, our car is rear wheel drive only, so it in the back. It the black rubber that go between the differential and the wheel drive shaft. In reality, you can't really inpect the axle ball joint unless you remove the rubber boots. Usually when the ball joints is bad, the first sign to go is the rubber boots. The rubber boots is design to hold the grease to lube the joint. When the rubber crack/damages, the lube is lost and the joint will go bad due to no lubrication.
What you are referring to is the CV joint on the rear axles themselves.
Any time MB uses the term "front axle" does not mean there is a drive axle there. The term "front axle" just refers to front wheel location.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,632
Likes: 150
C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
Front axle ball joints refer to the ball joint that attaches the steering knuckle to the lower control arm. On a 209 chassis these are actually part of the lower control arm. There is also a ball joint on each thrust arm at the front axle. These are checked at the front axle by raising the vehicle and exerting pressure up and down on the joint while monitoring the reading on a dial indicator, or an experienced tech will know what the proper feel is.
What you are referring to is the CV joint on the rear axles themselves.
Any time MB uses the term "front axle" does not mean there is a drive axle there. The term "front axle" just refers to front wheel location.
What you are referring to is the CV joint on the rear axles themselves.
Any time MB uses the term "front axle" does not mean there is a drive axle there. The term "front axle" just refers to front wheel location.
I do know what you're saying now. Another example are the steering outer joints and those joint are sealed but when the term "axle ball joints and rubber boots " are connect together. I'm thinking more of the drive shaft, bearings and CV boot joints.
