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DIY: Remove and replace valve cover gaskets and spark plugs

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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #26  
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Awesome write up.
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 10:37 PM
  #27  
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i followed this writeup a few weeks ago and it was fairly simple. took about 3 hours. if you're hesitant, don't be. it's straight forward. only thing i forgot to do was wipe the dripping oil when i put the valve cover back on.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 12:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Zaphodsplanet
Great DIY instructions... thanks for posting them. But I have a couple of questions.

1) Now that it's been close to 6 months since you made the fix.... are you leak free? Or have any leaks developed?

2) It doesn't look like any kind of sealant was used at the factory. My 04 e320 is sorely in need of me doing this fix.... but it also has 102K miles. Probably could have actually done this at 85K.... but it was just seeping at that point. Anyway... if you have to go in and do this again you're going to have a really fun cleanup job with the sealant you added. Did you ever find any instructions on how this is spec.'d on something like a WIS? Or has anyone found torque specs for the valve covers?

I'd just rather not cover everything in sealant if I don't have to. It never worked well long term on cars I've had in the past.

Thanks for posting the instructions.
I've driven the car 12k mi after the gasket replacement, and no leaks so far. If there's a leak, you'll notice it after 20 mins of driving. The factory does not use sealant because the engine is assembled off the car (so there's plenty of room to work with) and since all parts are new, they fit perfectly. The dealers also use sealant on replacing these gaskets. If you don't use sealant, it would be very difficult to align the new gasket with the rims of the valve cover and the engine block and chances are that it'll leak (w/o sealant).
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 03:38 AM
  #29  
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so im planning on doing this probably next week when my parts come and i was thinking is it easier to access the plug by removing the valve covers?
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #30  
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Does anyone have the part number for the oil filler gasket? I'd like to order this off of parts.com so I dont have to deal with the stealership. Thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #31  
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Man that was a lot of details for one post. Thanks for all the info.
Cheers
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 01:40 PM
  #32  
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According to the new manual I bought the torque specs for the cyl head cover is 8nm for clk320 and clk 55 while clk 500 needs 10nm

The bolts for the coils to head cover are set at 8 nm for all models.

Very nice diy btw
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #33  
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Very well put together DIY. Would be a must sticky I would think.
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 12:19 PM
  #34  
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Great info, thanks!
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 01:42 PM
  #35  
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I had my green filters cleaned, plugs changed, wires changed, oil changed, trans flushed (amsoil), diff flushed, and new inner and outer tie rods for my right wheel. My car drives like a champ.
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #36  
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Great DIY

BUT you DO NOT have to open the valve cover , you can unscrew the spark plugs without opening the valve covers, the whole process will take you less than 45min.
I dont see why you say they should open the valve covers

I have changed my spark plugs yesterday in 35 min roughly and all great
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 01:49 AM
  #37  
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Do you know what size those E-Torx bolts are? I will need to buy a socket, and don't really feel like buying a whole set, would rather just get the right size Thanks!
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 07:40 AM
  #38  
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another smaller gasket there IMO

Excellent write-up.

I'm in the same boat, need to replace the gaskets, but noticed that oil actually leaks from another gasket which is from the smaller cover (green arrow) which sits on top of the one discussed above.

Is it possible that the leak comes from there?

Opinions please.

Thanks
Attached Thumbnails DIY:  Remove and replace valve cover gaskets and spark plugs-3_111.jpg  
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Daca
Excellent write-up.

I'm in the same boat, need to replace the gaskets, but noticed that oil actually leaks from another gasket which is from the smaller cover (green arrow) which sits on top of the one discussed above.

Is it possible that the leak comes from there? Yes. Here is a write up from e55 but same principle:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...asket-diy.html

Opinions please.

Thanks
I just changed my oil 1k ago. I will let it go the 13k based on the 229.5 specs. After that, I will replace my valve cover gaskets as well. Thank you for posting!!!
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 12:28 AM
  #40  
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Great write-up. Changed my sparkplugs on my E500 following this DIY. Don't know what car that one guy had that claimed to be able to change it all in 35 min; took me roughly 90 min to change out 16 plugs...only cuz I wanted to make sure I wasn't tweaking any plugs when I took them out. Definitely need to have the right extension for your spark plug socket to maneuver around the cover. Also bought a spark plug boot wrench off Ebay that made it simple to maneuver around the valve cover.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 01:48 AM
  #41  
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WHY ISNT THIS A STICKY!!!!!
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 11:21 PM
  #42  
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Depending on the model, you may find it easier to get to the plugs from below the engine by removing the front road wheels and the inner fender shrouds. Here are photos from my W163:

ML320 Spark Plug Change
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 11:55 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Daca
Excellent write-up.

I'm in the same boat, need to replace the gaskets, but noticed that oil actually leaks from another gasket which is from the smaller cover (green arrow) which sits on top of the one discussed above.

Is it possible that the leak comes from there?

Opinions please.

Thanks
I replaced the same side gasket a couple months ago. I also had a leak around the smaller cover. I was able to carefully pry the smaller cover off, clean both surfaces with a brush, and seal it with the same black sealant mentioned earlier. No more leaks. Just use caution when prying it off.

Now it’s time to do the driver side.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #44  
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2004 E320 4Matic Wagon
Inflexible or flexible fuel line

[QUOTE=SZMB;4228079]Yes, the left cover is only slightly harder because of the fuel line above the cover. There's no need to remove the fuel line, I just push it out of the way with one hand and jiggle the valve cover out.[/QUOTE

Is the fuel line you pushed out one of the flexible lines as on some models or was it the inflexible type shown in the write-up? Mine is an inflexible type and I would like to do what you did if it works for the inflexible line.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:02 PM
  #45  
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Write up exemplar

Originally Posted by SZMB
I didn't find any leaks in these valves, connectors or hoses. They were clean. If they were clogged, they could be looking dirty. This is a California car, never been thru a cold winter, and I don't expect this car will have any problem w/ the breather valve. Maybe cars in the East Coast would experience clogged valves due to condensation from short trips during the winter months.
Given mileage >50k and years as a rule, based on my 113 engines, replace the hoses, breather gaskets, and other parts unique to the engine/car. Just because they don't look clogged or leaking if you are in there, might as well do all of it. Oh, if you can use a recommended washing solution for the valve covers, use it but make sure they are squeaky clean and chemically neutral before reassembly.

Props to your wonderful pictorial.

Last edited by grane; Nov 30, 2011 at 10:05 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #46  
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #47  
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Great write up. How tight do the bolts have to be when putting the valve cover back on? What is the torque specs?
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 04:01 AM
  #48  
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Great post up!

I did mine today after i found oil on my spark plugs.

Unfortunately, when i opened it up the engine looked sooo bad (picture attached). Any suggestions how i should clean it?

I was hoping i can scrap most of it off and put the cover back on and let it run for a month then open it again to get the scrap the rest out.
Attached Thumbnails DIY:  Remove and replace valve cover gaskets and spark plugs-photo.jpg  
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:35 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by MLSYD
Great post up!

I did mine today after i found oil on my spark plugs.

Unfortunately, when i opened it up the engine looked sooo bad (picture attached). Any suggestions how i should clean it?

I was hoping i can scrap most of it off and put the cover back on and let it run for a month then open it again to get the scrap the rest out.
looks like the ford commercial!! When was the last time the oil was changed? looks like years. I don't think you will be able to clean that without removing all the parts and bathing it in some hard core solvents. With that much sludge, I would not be surprised if the camshafts, injectors, and other parts are completely shot. Good luck man.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Gersh320
looks like the ford commercial!! When was the last time the oil was changed? looks like years. I don't think you will be able to clean that without removing all the parts and bathing it in some hard core solvents. With that much sludge, I would not be surprised if the camshafts, injectors, and other parts are completely shot. Good luck man.
The last one was last month. Its like that because up until last year I knew nothing about cars and didnt know how often i needed to change the oil, sad i know, but since then i've been changing it every 6months. 12 months along there was some sludge where you pour the oil in and new oil would go down every slowly. With regular oil change it got better. I only opened it because there was oil on the spark plugs.

Removing all the parts isnt something you can do yourself or do i have to get the mechanic to do? if so, i can see how they're going to me heaps for it...
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