Black Series Brakes
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C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
I'm having a problem with the drivers side airbox. It has 2 clips, one in the front and one in the rear. The rear clip goes in fine but then the bottom of the airbox hits the valve cover when I try to secure the front clip. It looks like the drivers side airbox needs to be elevated.
Of course because the V6 are much short then the V8 and so your the clips point are different.
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
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C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
No setting but you can change the brake line to a smaller size and it will reduce the pressure.
The smaller rotors will work in term of grip but then you might run into 2 problems. First, the 2 brake pads might touching one another when it wear down to about 90%. But the main concern is, the edge of the rotor will wear out and weaken the rotors structure and can cause the rotor to warp/crack very easy. If you look at every rotors wear, there's about 2mm of the rotors eadge that the brake pad does not touch.
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From: A Canadian in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
'05 C200K SS, '05 Kleemann CLK500K, '08 Hummer H3 & '92 Z34 5sp (track car in Canada)
When I get everything I will be doing a series of dyno runs after each mod to track actual gains. I've already done quite a few of these type projects before and I know the gains are all going to be minimal but I want to record raw data none the less. The airbox will be the first to go on and test because it can also be easily removed and replaced with the original airbox.
Last edited by Kevwood; Sep 21, 2010 at 07:25 AM.
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
Good afternoon from Kuwait Andy. My E55 airbox is still in Canada in my container, there was a delay in shipping, should be here in November. My friend that received everything for me inspected it and said it was 100% complete and in good condition (no scratches or cracks).
When I get everything I will be doing a series of dyno runs after each mod to track actual gains. I've already done quite a few of these type projects before and I know the gains are all going to be minimal but I want to record raw data none the less. The airbox will be the first to go on and test because it can also be easily removed and replaced with the original airbox.
When I get everything I will be doing a series of dyno runs after each mod to track actual gains. I've already done quite a few of these type projects before and I know the gains are all going to be minimal but I want to record raw data none the less. The airbox will be the first to go on and test because it can also be easily removed and replaced with the original airbox.
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From: A Canadian in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
'05 C200K SS, '05 Kleemann CLK500K, '08 Hummer H3 & '92 Z34 5sp (track car in Canada)
To reduce pressure you need to increase a line size. To very simply explain this take your garden hose, turn the water on and place your thumb over half of the hose end - the water comes out of the hose at a higher pressure. Take your thumb off and the pressure decreases.
The safe, easy, effective and proper way to make the adjustment is to use a proportioning valve, anyone or any shop who have done custom/track car brake set ups will know what this is.
*edit* Here is some good reading on the subject;
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...lve/index.html
Last edited by Kevwood; Sep 21, 2010 at 11:29 AM. Reason: Added a new found link
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
The smaller rotors will work in term of grip but then you might run into 2 problems. First, the 2 brake pads might touching one another when it wear down to about 90%. But the main concern is, the edge of the rotor will wear out and weaken the rotors structure and can cause the rotor to warp/crack very easy. If you look at every rotors wear, there's about 2mm of the rotors eadge that the brake pad does not touch.
What Tony is saying is using a bigger rotor in the front than the rear. What you are explaining is what could happen if you use a smaller sized rotor than what is recommended. These are two different points.
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C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
Okay, I'll take the bait.
To reduce pressure you need to increase a line size. To very simply explain this take your garden hose, turn the water on and place your thumb over half of the hose end - the water comes out of the hose at a higher pressure. Take your thumb off and the pressure decreases.
The safe, easy, effective and proper way to make the adjustment is to use a proportioning valve, anyone or any shop who have done custom/track car brake set ups will know what this is.
*edit* Here is some good reading on the subject;
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...lve/index.html
To reduce pressure you need to increase a line size. To very simply explain this take your garden hose, turn the water on and place your thumb over half of the hose end - the water comes out of the hose at a higher pressure. Take your thumb off and the pressure decreases.
The safe, easy, effective and proper way to make the adjustment is to use a proportioning valve, anyone or any shop who have done custom/track car brake set ups will know what this is.
*edit* Here is some good reading on the subject;
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...lve/index.html
OMG.....that was a JOKE !!!!!!
I thought you would laught your *** out when you read my post. But I didn't think you thought that i was serious.
Last edited by Klinh; Sep 21, 2010 at 06:37 PM.
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I know but you can't go any bigger rotors in the front without changing to bigger caliper like 6 pistons and so in your car, you can go with smaller rotors in the rear to change % fof the grips. But then too small of a rotors, you might run into problems that I mentioned.
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
I am already bigger in the front than in the rear. That's what he was saying. I have 355mm in the front and 330mm in the rear. It's not like I'm running 330mm on both.
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C63s Cabriolet, BMW M4, Civic
We know that, but his question were, is there a way we can changed your grip % with your current set up?
By going even smaller rotors then what you have now on the rear. This will reduce the brake pad touching the rotors surface which in turn, create less grip on the rear.
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
We know that, but his question were, is there a way we can changed your grip % with your current set up?
By going even smaller rotors then what you have now on the rear. This will reduce the brake pad touching the rotors surface which in turn, create less grip on the rear.
By going even smaller rotors then what you have now on the rear. This will reduce the brake pad touching the rotors surface which in turn, create less grip on the rear.
His second question "was have a smaller disk in the rear and bigger one in the front soo the combo
make it more like 60/40 ... ?"
Which is the setup I will have, 355mm front/330mm rear. 60/40 not 50/50 like you say.
You decided to explain what would happen when you change to a smaller rotor than what's recommended which nobody asked.
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If you base on just the rotors sizes then I would agreed with you 60/40 but your rear stock caliper is a single piston and now you changed it to a 4 pistons caliper with bigger brake pads. Are you telling me that it would not changed the grip % from a single piston to a 4 pistons with bigger brake pads? You know what, I'm just gonna stop here. This posts started out as to be helpfull but turned in a different direction. At the end of the day, it your car and so do what ever you want and just enjoy it. Have fun, man !!!!!!
Last edited by Klinh; Sep 21, 2010 at 08:26 PM.
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
If you base on just the rotors sizes then I would agreed with you 60/40 but your rear stock caliper is a single piston and now you changed it to a 4 pistons caliper with bigger brake pads. Are you telling me that it would not changed the grip % from a single piston to a 4 pistons with bigger brake pads? You know what, I'm just gonna stop here. This posts started out as to be helpfull but turned in a different direction. At the end of the day, it your car and so do what ever you want and just enjoy it. Have fun, man !!!!!!
Which posts started out to be helpful? Yours?
Last edited by dynomite05; Sep 21, 2010 at 08:49 PM.
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From: A Canadian in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
'05 C200K SS, '05 Kleemann CLK500K, '08 Hummer H3 & '92 Z34 5sp (track car in Canada)
And believe me Klinh, reading your reply I did laugh my *** off...
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
Your reply was not directed to me, it was directed as a reply to a question from FatTony001, he asked a question and you supplied him, not me with your answer. In doing so you supplied incorrect information to someone looking for an opinion or experienced answer, if it was a joke then you need to work on the delivery of the punch line.
And believe me Klinh, reading your reply I did laugh my *** off...
And believe me Klinh, reading your reply I did laugh my *** off...
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
Update: Calipers are being painted red. Car should HOPEFULLY be going in the shop next week. The CLK500/C55 spare tire well just arrived. Now to look for an exhaust shop, my regular place can't bend pipes...
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From: Jerzy
04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
A couple pics I took at the shop today. BS brakes are painted India Red, passenger side re-painted, diffuser is on, and spare tire well is in. Hopefully getting the exhaust done this week. Sorry for the bad iphone pics.
