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My top is up and won't go down. This is what I know so far. When closing the top the last time it worked properly there was a loud and unusual pop just at the end of the closing process. The next time I attempted to put the top down it unlatched from the windshield and did no more. I found the reservoir empty. I relatched the top manually at the windshield and obtained MB fluid and filled the reservoir. The next attempt was no different and when I checked the reservoir again, all the fluid I had just put in was gone. I am not inclined at this point to drive 4 hours to the nearest dealer and I am in possession of a shop manual and tools and will attempt to determine and repair on my own. I am just posting now on the chance that these events may find someone that was had the same things happen and might suggest to me what happened to them. There are instructions on how to manually put up the top in an emergency, but nothing on how to put it down manually, and I understand the reasoning for that. I am thinking however it would be very helpful for me if I could put the top partially down and expose the cylinders and hoses that reside below the metal top cover. But before considering unlatching that cover ( which is covered in the instructions ) I would need to somehow raise the portion of the top that contains the rear glass. I think for starters I will just remove all the panels I can get to in the trunk area and see if that reveals anything of interest. So far the fluid is not leaking to the ground. If I had to guess at this point I might guess a hose came loose. It is hard to imagine a cylinder seal blowing so completely the fluid can be pumped dry in such a short time. I will post back here as I go along and try to take some pictures too. If you have any questions I didn't cover so far, just ask and I will try to answer. Thanks, Russ
I removed most of the trunk panels to get a better view of the cylinders. Since my unusual noise was on the passenger side I removed more panels on that side. There are three cylinders on each side in the back, and one in the top itself. The cylinder nearest the back raises and lowers the painted top cover just in front of the trunk lid. The other two cylinders are more toward the front near the rear tire. They are somewhat parallel to each other. The one on the outside is larger in diameter than the one on the inside. I am not sure, but I think the larger one raises and lowers the top as is called "Soft Top Actuation Hydraulic Cylinder" and the smaller inner one on each side raises and lowers the rear window in the top and is called "Soft Top Bow Hydraulic Cylinder". In any event, the cylinder on the passenger side nearest the outside of the car and the larger of the two is totally broken on the fixed ( bottom ) end. Just to be clear, the cylinder is in two pieces - the portion with the piston is still attached at the top, but the bottom portion that is just below the bottom hydraulic hose connection is broken off. There are sharp and jagged edges to the aluminum cylinder where it totally failed. Of course this is where all the fluid immediately leaked out. The shop manual says to open the top and stop the operation with the soft top window in the raised position and the compartment cover also in the raised position. This would allow access to the area where the cylinder is located. I sure wish I could do that, but with the cylinder totally failed the top will not function in any way. There must be some way to put the top down manually, but I cannot find it. I have released the hydraulic locks on the cover cylinders, released the lock at the windshield, and opened the release valve on the hydraulic pump but the soft top rear window is not wanting to be pulled up with all the force I am willing to apply. Without that window up there is no way to even think about getting the cover raised. I'm stuck. Anyone out there with any ideas besides "take it to the dealer or an independent". Thanks, Russ
Thanks for your reply, I know you are trying to help and I appreciate it. I just wish it were covered in the owner's manual. The heading even says "Open/Close" but they only cover putting the top up from its open position under the top cover. I am sure that is so someone caught in an emergency can get the car drivable or protected in the rain. There are no instructions on how to open the top. I do have an idea I have yet to try. The manual releases that are located on the cover cylinders are there to allow the clylinders to be moved with manul force. As far as I can tell there are no manaul release valves on the bow cylinders. What I am thinking of doing is releasing the manual valves on the cover cylinders, and opening the bypass valve on the pump ( which of course is emty since one of the cylinders is blown in two pieces ). Then, I will start the automatic process with the top switch and then manually unlatch the top from the windshield and that should satisfy the limit switch the automatic operating is looking for and then hopefully the valves to the bow cylinders will be in a position that I can manually apply force to lift the bow and maybe it will actually lift up. We'll see just as soon as the weather improves. Thanks, Russ
Thanks for your reply, I know you are trying to help and I appreciate it. I just wish it were covered in the owner's manual. The heading even says "Open/Close" but they only cover putting the top up from its open position under the top cover. Thanks, Russ
"Open/close".....I don't think it really matter since the procedures is really about unlock the pump and released pressure to all the cylinders. Give it a try by follow the procedures.
I was trying to help, but I should have read your post completely before answering. I never noticed that the open/close procedures really were only for raising the top.
Wow! I wonder what made that cylinder blow? Sorry I can't give you any real help.
I finally managed to gain access to the top storage area and the busted cylinder. Here is how I did it.
I followed the instructions for the emergency closing of the top in the owner's manual, stopping where you and your friend have pulled on the straps and moved the top cover up and back on its hinge. The manual is not at all clear on how to thread the straps through the hinge so I will try to describe how to do it in words. You will have already pulled out the plastic stoppers from each side of the hinge and moved them fully forward. At that point I suggest removing the plastic covers on the hinges. They just slide straight up and come off easily. Then you will see the hinge is actually three pieces not counting the laminations. There are two outer side that are identical, and a middle piece that is shaped differently. If you look from the side the middle piece is curved toward the front of the car. Take the strap and thread it in front of the two side pieces, but in back of the curved center piece. Then run the handle through the loop and lay it on the top of the top cover. Close the trunk lid and get ready to pull on the straps. It works best to pull upward and slightly backward. Standing on a stool helps and have a friend helps. It takes considerable force and the cover just begins to move up and back with no particular unlatching. It is just gradual and smooth and you just keep pulling until you feel it stop. You will have already unlatch the top at the front with the hex wrench and released pressure on the pump and turned the bypass valves on both top cover cylinders. You can now have your friend help you rasie the portion of the top with the rear window ( bow ) and it will gradually raise to an almost vertical position. Now look in the book and assume the position with your friend with one hand on the front of the top cover and the other hand on the rear lip of the trunk lid and slowly lift the top cover. I had placed protective cloth between the front of the trunk lid and the back of the top cover, but it would probably not have been necessary. The location of the hinge seems to prevent any contact between the two painted surfaces. Now you have access to the top storage area. The fun doesn't end there for me as the particular cylinder that blew apart requires one to remove also the rear seats and side panel to access the lower connection point. I have pictures I would share with anyone that wants and you may contact me by my name with the domain of earthlink.net
R171 SLK350, W209 CLK350, SoCalBeachRunner on SLKWorld
I know this is an old post but we just encountered this problem with our W209 2009 CLK350 at around 60K miles and in our case the problem was from a different breakage, so sharing it here to keep related solutions in the same post.
We started hearing a loud thud coming from under the passenger-side of the top cover panel in the final seconds when retracting the roof. We could not see anything binding or identify where the problem was, and within a few days while waiting on our appointment at the dealership the roof exhibited intermittent failures to open or close, including getting stuck in the half open position.
The dealer's diagnosis: the driver-side bow switch was broken and two associated relays were bad. Bow switches are two black plastic switches that close when the top cover reaches the fully closed position. There's one on each side near the base of the rear window. They can be seen if you pause operation while the top cover panel is in the vertical position. The repair bill came to $700 which included a flat rate loaner car rental for the duration; car was in shop for two days.
Within a day the thud returned!
Since it was the weekend & out of town, I took another look at it. Turns out the root cause of the problem was something in need of adjustment. The dealer had fixed the resulting damage but not addressed the real cause: an apparatus for the top cover was out of adjustment and binding on its mating surface.
The attached pictures show what to do. There is a pin on each side of the front edge of the roof. Once the roof has retracted and folded into place in the rear of the car, as the roof cover panel closes there's a "tongue" on each side of the cover panel that should slide across its corresponding pin of the folded roof. However, if out of adjustment the tongue's angle is too steep so the roof pin catches on the edge of the tongue instead of meeting it in the center and sliding across it. Binding vs. sliding. We need sliding. Binding breaks switches in other places, then (apparently) burns out relays, too.
Using a slotted screwdriver you simply slightly tighten the adjustment screw located in the problematic tongue so the tongue is more parallel to the top cover panel, thus as it closes and meets up with the pin in the folded top, the pin will meet the center of the tongue and slide across it, not catch on the edge and break stuff.
Parts replaced:
A 209 820 19 10 Driver side bow switch
A 002 542 14 19 Relay (two of these)
A picture's worth a thousand words. I hope this helps other W209 owners.
Last edited by SoCalBeachRunnr; Oct 13, 2014 at 01:31 PM.
Reason: Added pic of broken parts
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320 pano top, 95 Lorinser E320 Cabrio, Ferrari 360, Tesla X
SoCalBeachRunnr,
thank you for the detailed write-up; this may be helpful to many fellow W209 owners in the future.
A few comments:
1) The relays are next to the pump on the left side of the trunk, and they make the pump turn. Both relays together are needed to make the pump motor turn clockwise or counterclockwise.
2) Replacing the switch is easy - the tricky part was finding out what the problem was. For folks who are on a tighter budget, they could simply have the dealer do the diagnosis, tell them which switch is bad, buy the switch from the dealer, and do the installation themselves.
3) Manual operation of the top. Here is a video that esteemed forum member rudeney has come up with, and that we are hosting on our website, as well: http://benzbits.com/w209/soft_top/ManualClose.wmv
4) If the dealer tells any future reader that the hydraulic pump is bad, DO NOT pay $2300 plus tax and labor for a new one. Instead, take out the pump yourself following the following DIY guide, and send the pump to Top Hydraulics for rebuild & upgrade. http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/w209pumpremoval.pdf
W209 pump part numbers:
2098000148 aka A 209 800 01 48
2098000248 aka A 209 800 02 48
2098000548 aka A 209 800 05 48
2098000648 aka A 209 800 06 48
2098000030 aka A 209 800 00 30
2098000330 aka A 209 800 03 30
2098000130 aka A 209 800 01 30
2098000630 aka A 209 800 06 30
Pump rebuild & upgrade: http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/w...ulic-pump.html
That is great information! We've had other reports like this that I always assumed were the hinge locks. I never even though of these latches getting out of alignment.
Hi Everyone. I'm having a similar issue. At the end of the open or close cycle the tonneau cover should slide forward slightly and then lock down and the windows should go up. This isn't happening for me. The cover seems to "strain" forward a bit, but won't lock down. I can't identify any obstructions in the roof storage compartment. Has anyone seen this issue?
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320 pano top, 95 Lorinser E320 Cabrio, Ferrari 360, Tesla X
Also check the micro switch assembly that is clipped onto the left tonneau cylinder 2098001272. This micro switch assembly is prone to failure just like the two switches inside the storage compartment.
The problem with the switches in the storage compartment is usually that they get dislodged. You can actually epoxy them back into place if some tab has broken.
On the sliding switch that is clipped onto the tonneau cylinder, there is a signal for the cylinder being retracted, and another one for it being extended. In your case, you are looking for the closed circuit when the cylinder is extended. There are three wires in the switch's wiring harness connector - you are looking for a closed circuit between the middle lead and one of the outside leads. You will have to remove some panels in the trunk to get access - easy to do.
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320 pano top, 95 Lorinser E320 Cabrio, Ferrari 360, Tesla X
Originally Posted by graysonwolfe
Hi Everyone. I'm having a similar issue. At the end of the open or close cycle the tonneau cover should slide forward slightly and then lock down and the windows should go up. This isn't happening for me. The cover seems to "strain" forward a bit, but won't lock down. I can't identify any obstructions in the roof storage compartment. Has anyone seen this issue?
I'm driving a 2007 CLK350.
If this was to happen only during the closing cycle and the cycle stopped right after the rear glass came down, then the following thread would be useful to you: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ing-cycle.html. However, it does not apply in your case, where the cover does not close all the way in opening and closing cycle.
ROOF FIXED with a screwdriver and can of spray lube
Originally Posted by SoCalBeachRunnr
We started hearing a loud thud coming from under the passenger-side of the top cover panel in the final seconds when retracting the roof. We could not see anything binding or identify where the problem was, and within a few days while waiting on our appointment at the dealership the roof exhibited intermittent failures to open or close, including getting stuck in the half open position.
THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT WAS HAPPENING TO MY CAR!!
SoCalBeachRunnr I can't thank you enough for your advice!!
Once I adjusted these tabs (btw for non US readers, I worked out that a slotted screwdriver is a "flat head" in Australia ), I found that the top cover would finally sit flush at the front edge where it meets the rear seat. If I held the roof close switch for long enough, the cover would eventually snap forward and down (fully closed position) with a horrific BANG!!
So... I opened the cover back up using the roof switch and sprayed "Mr Sheen" lubricant (common household stuff in Australia) on the two main hinges that affix the top cover to the body of the vehicle. I then tried closing the roof and she just glided shut like a brand new one!!
What I have concluded is that these complex roofs must be constantly lubricated (Kent Bergsma from YouTube has a point here!!) to ensure that all the moving parts are running smoothly.
The design of the roof cover allows water to be drained past the two hinges and I think that this along with dirt etc causes these hinges to dry out. Also, routine lubrication is important as these hinges appear to be made of plastic (Thank YOU Chrysler... just one example of unacceptably shoddy material selection in our cars from this era )
So nice to have the roof working like new again. Thanks big time to
SoCalBeachRunnr
Last edited by jamhen01; Jun 17, 2015 at 12:22 PM.
I know this is an old post but we just encountered this problem with our W209 2009 CLK350 at around 60K miles and in our case the problem was from a different breakage, so sharing it here to keep related solutions in the same post.
We started hearing a loud thud coming from under the passenger-side of the top cover panel in the final seconds when retracting the roof. We could not see anything binding or identify where the problem was, and within a few days while waiting on our appointment at the dealership the roof exhibited intermittent failures to open or close, including getting stuck in the half open position.
The dealer's diagnosis: the driver-side bow switch was broken and two associated relays were bad. Bow switches are two black plastic switches that close when the top cover reaches the fully closed position. There's one on each side near the base of the rear window. They can be seen if you pause operation while the top cover panel is in the vertical position. The repair bill came to $700 which included a flat rate loaner car rental for the duration; car was in shop for two days.
Within a day the thud returned!
Since it was the weekend & out of town, I took another look at it. Turns out the root cause of the problem was something in need of adjustment. The dealer had fixed the resulting damage but not addressed the real cause: an apparatus for the top cover was out of adjustment and binding on its mating surface.
The attached pictures show what to do. There is a pin on each side of the front edge of the roof. Once the roof has retracted and folded into place in the rear of the car, as the roof cover panel closes there's a "tongue" on each side of the cover panel that should slide across its corresponding pin of the folded roof. However, if out of adjustment the tongue's angle is too steep so the roof pin catches on the edge of the tongue instead of meeting it in the center and sliding across it. Binding vs. sliding. We need sliding. Binding breaks switches in other places, then (apparently) burns out relays, too.
Using a slotted screwdriver you simply slightly tighten the adjustment screw located in the problematic tongue so the tongue is more parallel to the top cover panel, thus as it closes and meets up with the pin in the folded top, the pin will meet the center of the tongue and slide across it, not catch on the edge and break stuff.
Parts replaced:
A 209 820 19 10 Driver side bow switch
A 002 542 14 19 Relay (two of these)
A picture's worth a thousand words. I hope this helps other W209 owners.
Do you have the part number of the "tongue" part?. Mine is broken because of the reason that you clearly explain here...
Hi guys, great write up and pretty much the exact issue that I'm facing but there's something that I need a bit of advice on.
2006 w209 clk350 convertible.
Firstly, roof opening, hear that loud thud, pop or whatever from rear passenger side at the back (I'm in Australia, cars are right hand drive). I try to close the roof with cockpit switch which works mostly. Roof is stuck with rear screen unlatched to tonneau cover and tonneau also unlatched. I push tonneau cover down manually and hear it latch and I push rear screen down manually and hear it latch. I manage to get car home.
Google and YouTube searches, lots of info, mostly for different issues. So,panels off interior of boot and I can see no hydraulic oil in reservoir and then identify left main lift cylinder busted in exactly the same way as Russ White's explanation. So here, finally, is the question. HOW CAN I UNLATCH THE REAR SCREEN PART OF ROOF? I think that I've figured out how to lift the tonneau cover, release locks on cylinders and pressure release valve on reservoir, turn releases around on catches behind boot lid but I can't lift the tonneau cover without first releasing the windscreen rear section. HOW?
Any advice on how and on any likely issues that I might face that I'm not yet aware of would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Update. Ok, a lot simpler than I thought. Using the straps from the spare wheel bay, just pulling the tonneau cover back released the windscreen. Yay! Next problem...pulled offending lift cylinder out by releasing pin with the spring lock on the other end but the bottom end from the plunger which broke off seems nigh on impossible to get to. If I do manage to get something in to release the spring lock, it's almost certainly going to disappear into the car somewhere and even if it doesn't, getting it back on when I'm installing the replacement cylinder will be a nightmare. Any suggestions?
So I assume you have figured out the proper way to manually operate the soft top? If not, here's a video (it's for the newer A207 E-Class, but everything related to this is exactly the same):
Hi Rodney, I really appreciate your reply. I did figure it out and followed the path that you've just out lined. Removing the rear seat squabs also revealed where all the hydraulic fluid went...thank to the previous owner for the $4.50 languishing in the pool of fluid which my son promptly disappeared with!
This is a public holiday weekend here in Sydney so getting the replacement main lift cylinder, pn 209 800 07 72 isn't going to happen until Tuesday but I've been thinking about the impact of no oil in the cylinder after I've installed it. Will this be a problem? I know that the pump doesn't need priming and that there isn't a bleed screw on the cylinder itself but I'd hate to spend $500 on a new cylinder only to pop it on first operation. Any insight my friend?
No problems with a dry cylinder. If you will notice, it has two lines. It recirculates fluid, so it is self-filling and self-bleeding. You will hear the pump "whine" until all the air is bled out, so just keep cycling the top until it's done.
BTW, not sure if Top Hydraulics ships to AU, or even how the prices for that would compare, but you might want to check with Klaus to see if he is competitive with your local sources. He sells rebuilt cylinders at a discount. He's on the forum - just search.
CLK350 Grand Edition Soft Top Door cover left Hinge Broken
It started with a hard noise when stowing the top of the CLK350 and shortly after the cover door got jammed and it didn’t close all the way. I managed to get the door open up right and when compared the hinges I realized that the left one had a broken plastic piece.
Is there a part number that you know of for this part. So far what I’ve been finding here is not working with A or without A in front of the part number.
This is for my 2009 CLK350 Grand Edition
Please Advise and Thanks in Advance
It started with a hard noise when stowing the top of the CLK350 and shortly after the cover door got jammed and it didn’t close all the way. I managed to get the door open up right and when compared the hinges I realized that the left one had a broken plastic piece.
Is there a part number that you know of for this part. So far what I’ve been finding here is not working with A or without A in front of the part number.
This is for my 2009 CLK350 Grand Edition
Please Advise and Thanks in Advance
Those plastic pieces in the center of the hinges are not necessary for operation. They are safety locks to keep the lid held in the upright position when servicing the hydraulics. Mien did this and I just cut them off so they sis not interfere with the hinge operation.
Those plastic pieces in the center of the hinges are not necessary for operation. They are safety locks to keep the lid held in the upright position when servicing the hydraulics. Mien did this and I just cut them off so they sis not interfere with the hinge operation.
Good morning Rudeney and Thanks for your response. I did cut off the plastic piece to prevent any top operation interference and or damage and it worked for just a couple of times. It seems like the plastic tongue that rolls on the base come too forward of the bottom basepreventing the top to close completely.
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related issue: Tonneau cover not engaging
ROOF FIXED with a screwdriver and can of spray lube
), I found that the top cover would finally sit flush at the front edge where it meets the rear seat. If I held the roof close switch for long enough, the cover would eventually snap forward and down (fully closed position) with a horrific BANG!!
