What do you besides fiddle with your car?
04-07-2011, 08:46 AM
#26
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The wood on that first guitar is beautiful, I bet it sounds as good as it looks. Any closeup pics? I always wanted to play a guitar but never got around to learning. Trying to influence my 7 year old son now and he already comes up with some cool songs on his acoustic one.
I bet you run some tube guitar amps as well
I bet you run some tube guitar amps as well
04-07-2011, 09:19 AM
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2003 CLK 500
I used to have a small computer business with a buddy.. Building and repairing.. Now I just play lots of golf and racquetball. I also like to play cpu games such as COD and Minecraft. My real love is architecture, so I get out and try to look and discover new buildings and interesting modern art.
04-07-2011, 09:53 AM
#28
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06 CLK350 -SOLD! 2010 Cadillac SRX Premium Turbo
The wood on that first guitar is beautiful, I bet it sounds as good as it looks. Any closeup pics? I always wanted to play a guitar but never got around to learning. Trying to influence my 7 year old son now and he already comes up with some cool songs on his acoustic one.
I bet you run some tube guitar amps as well
I bet you run some tube guitar amps as well
And Yes, Tube only for me. Mesa Boogie is the weapon of choice these days.
I will post some better pics after work.
04-07-2011, 10:40 AM
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04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
I would like to learn how to play the guitar and the drums. Unfortunately I really don't have the time for that so rockband is the closest I'll get for the time being. lol
04-07-2011, 12:55 PM
#32
Happy to give you some suggestions, as for the speakers I sold of most speaker gear when I moved to headphones, these are left over Acoustic Research S40 that I got many years ago but they sound surprisingly well when driven by good amps considering the crappy acoustics in that room.
04-07-2011, 01:22 PM
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2004 CLK 320
04-07-2011, 02:33 PM
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His mama. Traded y0 mama in because she was squeaking.
Perhaps in the near future, once I have the 28" x 7' ID Autoclave I'm building set up and running.
I don't have the time to do any large scale projects now, like diffusers, grilles and the like. I did some overlay work for my personal company pick-up truck when I first got into CF, and it was a pain. Came out relatively well for my first time, though
Here's the problem with CF that most CF part "manufacturers" won't tell you... In order to PROPERLY cure a resin and get the most out of it, you need two things:
1. The curing schedule from the resin manufacturer. - Readily available from the manufacturer.
An example would be something like this:
a. Cure part at 350PSI and 130 degrees for x hours.
b. Reduce temperature to xxx and pressure to xxx for x hours.
c. Increase pressure to xxx at xxx temperature.
etc.
Typically, the longer the curing schedule, the stronger the resin.
2. An Autoclave. - Not so readily available unless you have the funds for one or the fabrication skills necessary to turn a pressure vessel into one.
Aside from it properly curing the resin, you want an Autoclave to be able to exert hundreds of PSI on top of the vacuum bag (as evidenced above). This will help get rid of a lot more air bubbles that are trapped between the resin and the mold. This makes the resin even stronger.
Autoclaves are damned spendy. The cheapest new one I could find was almost 100K.
As such, most CF shops that specialize in car parts don't have one. Now, I'm not saying that you can't make a CF part without an Autoclave. People do it all the time. The problem is, the resin covering the part is never going to be as strong as it was designed to be, without properly curing it. Sure, you can vacuum bag a part and cure the resin at relative temperatures. As a matter of fact, this is how most shops do it. This works as well. But again, it won't be as strong, since it wasn't cured according to the resin manufacturer's curing schedule.
Will this make much of a difference in the aesthetics world? No, not really. I mean, a rear spoiler will never see the type of forces CF was made for. But it does play a very big role in structural parts, like suspension parts, frame parts, frames, even, airplane wings, etc. That is, all things being equal. There are a few more tricks involved in laying the cloth when you do structural and higher load bearing parts.
With that said, I would never sell any part that doesn't contain properly cured resin, even if it's for aesthetics. My friends know of this.
You may be surprised at how the guys (and gals) in the Snowmobile world pay an arm an a leg to lighten their sleds up by 20 lbs. I did not know this until a few months ago. I checked with some other people as well as online. Most snow mobile resellers will state in the part description stuff like "this part will save you 1lb (or more, depending on the part) off the factory part".
Now, as I said earlier, I am building my own autoclave for around 30K. It would be a "manual" unit, but adding the automation to it is only about 5K and that's mostly for the software. I have access to most of the automation hardware for free... well, a few cases of beer and a couple of bottle of Crown Royal Reserve anyways. I already have the vessel sitting at a friends yard. It's just a matter of cutting one end and making a door out of it. Since I am making it for my own use, it doesn't have to be certified (part of the high cost or commercial units), though it will be welded by a welder who was at one time certified to weld on much, much larger and higher pressure vessels than my little Autoclave. It's like asking It's pretty much like asking Linus Torvalds to write a "hello world" program.
My current project is a cold side intercooler tube for my FORD diesel. I'm waiting to hear from the resin manufacturer on some operating temperature specs.
I don't have the time to do any large scale projects now, like diffusers, grilles and the like. I did some overlay work for my personal company pick-up truck when I first got into CF, and it was a pain. Came out relatively well for my first time, though
Here's the problem with CF that most CF part "manufacturers" won't tell you... In order to PROPERLY cure a resin and get the most out of it, you need two things:
1. The curing schedule from the resin manufacturer. - Readily available from the manufacturer.
An example would be something like this:
a. Cure part at 350PSI and 130 degrees for x hours.
b. Reduce temperature to xxx and pressure to xxx for x hours.
c. Increase pressure to xxx at xxx temperature.
etc.
Typically, the longer the curing schedule, the stronger the resin.
2. An Autoclave. - Not so readily available unless you have the funds for one or the fabrication skills necessary to turn a pressure vessel into one.
Aside from it properly curing the resin, you want an Autoclave to be able to exert hundreds of PSI on top of the vacuum bag (as evidenced above). This will help get rid of a lot more air bubbles that are trapped between the resin and the mold. This makes the resin even stronger.
Autoclaves are damned spendy. The cheapest new one I could find was almost 100K.
As such, most CF shops that specialize in car parts don't have one. Now, I'm not saying that you can't make a CF part without an Autoclave. People do it all the time. The problem is, the resin covering the part is never going to be as strong as it was designed to be, without properly curing it. Sure, you can vacuum bag a part and cure the resin at relative temperatures. As a matter of fact, this is how most shops do it. This works as well. But again, it won't be as strong, since it wasn't cured according to the resin manufacturer's curing schedule.
Will this make much of a difference in the aesthetics world? No, not really. I mean, a rear spoiler will never see the type of forces CF was made for. But it does play a very big role in structural parts, like suspension parts, frame parts, frames, even, airplane wings, etc. That is, all things being equal. There are a few more tricks involved in laying the cloth when you do structural and higher load bearing parts.
With that said, I would never sell any part that doesn't contain properly cured resin, even if it's for aesthetics. My friends know of this.
You may be surprised at how the guys (and gals) in the Snowmobile world pay an arm an a leg to lighten their sleds up by 20 lbs. I did not know this until a few months ago. I checked with some other people as well as online. Most snow mobile resellers will state in the part description stuff like "this part will save you 1lb (or more, depending on the part) off the factory part".
Now, as I said earlier, I am building my own autoclave for around 30K. It would be a "manual" unit, but adding the automation to it is only about 5K and that's mostly for the software. I have access to most of the automation hardware for free... well, a few cases of beer and a couple of bottle of Crown Royal Reserve anyways. I already have the vessel sitting at a friends yard. It's just a matter of cutting one end and making a door out of it. Since I am making it for my own use, it doesn't have to be certified (part of the high cost or commercial units), though it will be welded by a welder who was at one time certified to weld on much, much larger and higher pressure vessels than my little Autoclave. It's like asking It's pretty much like asking Linus Torvalds to write a "hello world" program.
My current project is a cold side intercooler tube for my FORD diesel. I'm waiting to hear from the resin manufacturer on some operating temperature specs.
Last edited by Sathinas; 04-07-2011 at 02:40 PM.
04-07-2011, 03:07 PM
#38
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06 CLK350 -SOLD! 2010 Cadillac SRX Premium Turbo
After reading that, I'd rather be the guy just buying the stuff already done. Not the guy making it. Very informative write up indeed.
04-07-2011, 03:13 PM
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04 CLK 320 > CLK32K
Great write up! Once you have your autoclave up and running, exactly what size parts will you be able to make? I assume since you are spending all that $$$, you expect to make it back somehow, right?
04-07-2011, 03:27 PM
#40
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2008 ML550 P2. 2010 E350 P2
I am 26 and a VP at investment bank/ VC Firm. We specialize is distressed commercial debt, hence the screen name.
As some of you know I hit the weights pretty hard. Been lifting
religiously for 8 years.
I also spend my time and money on my house. In the last 2 years I have had the following work done:
Had my kitchen completley gutted, New 42" cabinets, SS appliances w/ doubel oven, hood vent, wine fridge w/ buttlers pantry, granite, tumbled marble backsplash.
New Hardwood floors everywhere downstairs & on the stairs themselves.
Changed 130 stair balisters from wood to oil rubbed wrought iron
Gutted the master bath. Travertine floors, frameless shower, granite, fixtures etc.
*** MY NEW PROJECT*** Getting a pool & spa. Flagstone coping, stamped concrete decking, waterfall, the works. Work should start early May. Super Stoked!!!
THis is also why I haven't done anything else to my car...
As some of you know I hit the weights pretty hard. Been lifting
religiously for 8 years.
I also spend my time and money on my house. In the last 2 years I have had the following work done:
Had my kitchen completley gutted, New 42" cabinets, SS appliances w/ doubel oven, hood vent, wine fridge w/ buttlers pantry, granite, tumbled marble backsplash.
New Hardwood floors everywhere downstairs & on the stairs themselves.
Changed 130 stair balisters from wood to oil rubbed wrought iron
Gutted the master bath. Travertine floors, frameless shower, granite, fixtures etc.
*** MY NEW PROJECT*** Getting a pool & spa. Flagstone coping, stamped concrete decking, waterfall, the works. Work should start early May. Super Stoked!!!
THis is also why I haven't done anything else to my car...
Last edited by BadDebt; 04-07-2011 at 04:04 PM.
04-07-2011, 03:32 PM
#41
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His mama. Traded y0 mama in because she was squeaking.
I'm not looking at the autoclave to pay for itself while I'm using it, really. I can always have it certified and sell it if/when I get bored with CF. I know I can at least sell it for what I'll have into it. If I break even, I'll be happy. If I lose a little bit on it... Eh. I have a good, law abiding accountant.
04-07-2011, 04:04 PM
#44
MBWorld Fanatic!
http://www.wooaudio.com/products/wastax.html
I run it with the Sennheiser HE60 electrostatic headphones. The source is Modwright modded Sony 999ES with a bunch of upgrades (capacitors, clock, etc.), tube based output stage and external custom power supply.
There are a bunch of open designs that you can use and there is a very active DIY community I can direct you towards.
04-07-2011, 04:19 PM
#45
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His mama. Traded y0 mama in because she was squeaking.
What spoiler?Holy crap!
1500 dollars for some tube holders, a potentiometer, a bunch of resistors, some capacitors, a relay and a little circuit board? LOL
I'm just ribbin' ya, I know there's more to a product than just the parts. You have to take into account workmanship, quality, etc.
Last edited by Sathinas; 04-07-2011 at 04:25 PM.
04-07-2011, 06:12 PM
#47
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Holy crap!
1500 dollars for some tube holders, a potentiometer, a bunch of resistors, some capacitors, a relay and a little circuit board? LOL
I'm just ribbin' ya, I know there's more to a product than just the parts. You have to take into account workmanship, quality, etc.
))) $1500+680 for the upgrades 
and $200 for the tube upgrades... that new 2011 E class, man you could get couple Toyota's for that 
you know there are $15,000 headphones right?
04-07-2011, 07:03 PM
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06 CLK350 -SOLD! 2010 Cadillac SRX Premium Turbo
What type of cycling Euro? Road, mountain? The only reason I ask is that my Dad at one point years back, was doing triathlons and had a bike that cost more than the car he was driving. I believe it was a Bianchi.
