2MCHCAR

My upgrade to R1 Concept Slotted-Crossdrilled rotors and StopTech Stainless Steel brake lines. There are excellent DIYs for changing the pads and rotors here and on W209 Specific Forums, so I will just share my experience.

The hardest part was removing the rear rotors, those suckers were rusted on the hub real good. I did the usual things (banging'em, heat gun, etc) but ended up using a $8 8" 3 Jaw pulley puller tool from Harbor Freight, the process was super easy with this tool (watch out, when the rotor finally comes loose; it shoots out with a BANG). Front rotors were no problem to remove, just a few taps with the hammer and they came off. The stainless steel Brake lines were easy to change out, just unbolt them and install the new ones (and bleed the brakes when done). I took my time with the install, but all and all the entire process was straight forward and easy to do if you have all the right tools (and this was the very first time I ever did any brake job). If I ever upgrade my brake calipers, I'm confident I can do the job myself and save me some $$$$, take that Stealership!
Onto the pics!

The parts


Old and New Rotors


Pulley Tool to Remove the rear rotors


Front and Rear Brakes with new Pads, Rotors, and SS Brake Lines


Before/After of the Rears


Before/After of the Fronts


Shout out goes the Drago and Wes for their DIY info and for supporting all the W209 forums!

EuroTra$H

Looks great thanks for the write up
What was the total cost of this DIY?

Mka77

Nice DIY. The pulley puller info was huge. It's my next project.

mikata

Nice write up Carlos! I'm doing this my self as soons as Kev sells me his brake calipers

Jamesbbh

Nice! looks great! Watch out for those chinese made HF pullers though, I've had one blow up in my face pulling the steering wheel off of the jeep. Just disintegrated into about 20 pieces and bruised/cut up my hand pretty bad but I was looking away from it in anticipation of that happening thank god.

bheng

hmm. i'll be doing a brake swap soon as well. the problem that i foresee is just the bleeding of the brakes. anywhere i can go to get it done?

since im swapping new calipers, i was thinking about replacing the brake fluid entirely

nice set up tho! are you going to paint your calipers?

ahmadk

nice

betrezra

Nice pics.... but the burning question..... how does it drive stop now? Any changes or improvement in brake fade or stopping distance now, and how about pedal feel with the ss lines? I feel like you quit typing before the grand finale

2MCHCAR

Thanks, here is the listing of parts I can remember off hand:
Front/Rear R1 Concept Premium Rotors $537.61 (with 15% off coupon)
Brake Bleeder $80
Front Brake Pads $55
Rear Brake Pads $75
Mercedes Brake fluid 3 x $11
Front/Rear Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake lines $110
Rotor Screws 4 x $1
Pulley Tool for Rear Rotor $8
Pastes,Greases, Sprays, etc $25

This was surprisingly easy. Just follow the many DYIs and get the right tools and

Good Luck! Let us know how it turns out!

Thanks James! Yeah, the event is loud and violent; so anybody doing this I would advise to have proper safety equipment and be careful.

Brake bleeding cost $120 at the stealer. The Brake Bleeding kit with fluid cost me $110. The process is easy and straight forward, so you should be able to do this at home. I was thinking about painting the calipers, but I decided not to and just clean them real well.

Thanks!

To be honest, everything feels the same as before (I think there may be less brake dust now; Parts.com said that there was a new front pad part number and it was cheaper); I don't drive hard enough to even have my brakes fade. But with the supercharger, I wanted to upgrade all the factory components I could, so I went with the SS Lines, upgraded rotors, refreshed the fluid and kept the pads factory (from advise it received from Kevwood; he has W209 track experience).

bheng

so i am prepping for this brake change up this weekend.

currently i have on order r1 front rotors and accompanying pads.
i have in my possession calipers and ss lines. i have the torx bit to take out the rotor and planning to use that torx screw for the r1 rotor.

for the ss lines, do i just take out the old ones by unscrewing and putting in new ones by rescrewing in. the just connect the rest of the pieces together? lol i dont want to be stuck without a car if i needed to do something else. i am planning to just get my brake fluid flushed at an indy shop after the job. i dont mind driving with mushy brakes for a day or two. never bled brakes before and i dont intend on royally screwing up with that one.

2MCHCAR

Hey Brian,
Yeah, you pretty much unscrew the old lines and put the new ones back on, but make sure to put a tarp and a big drip pan or else the brake fluid will go everywhere.

I never did a brake job before and I bleed the brakes for the first time in my life during this change. It is easy. I do NOT recommend driving without bleeding the brakes first (SAFETY FIRST). So if that is your plan, I recommend going to your indy to change the brake lines or tow your car to them.

bheng

thanks.

turns out that im going do the brake lines and im going to bleed the brakes so that its driveable in the case of needing the car for smaller trips. then i plan to do a full flush on sunday night when my friend gets his power bleeder from his sac house.

i cant find a place that carries the motive bleeder with the euro adapter anywhere around me. where did you get yours?

also. is it bad to mix brake fluid? if i dont get a hold of oem brake fluid, i might just get ate sl6 dot brake fluid to top off the reservoir till the time of the flush. and how much brake fluid do you need?

DWilk

Hey everyone, quick question, is it possible to change out rusted and un sightly caliper bolt s
On the clk 550 front brakes? Doing R1 rotors and pads. Thanks.