clknjrb

Has anyone got any video links or images on how to change the front pads?

Thanks in advance

M-bENZ

1) Jack up your car
2) Take off your wheel
3) Knock out the two pin ( top n bottom)
4) Take out the old pad ...put in the new pad
5) Done ?

clknjrb

wow that simple. Thanks

Frank Rizzo

I did it last weekend and it the easiest car I have ever done a brake pad swap on. All 4 wheels took about 2.5 hours ...because I was being ****.

Rudeney

You forgot one step - remove the rotors for a "knock down" (i.e. rough sand them to remove the shine so your new pads will properly seat).

Glyn M Ruck

Make sure that pad wear sensors are correctly positioned.

You have the sliding caliper. Only push back piston far enough to insert new pads. Further than that can cause caliper over return due to stiction in the bore resulting in a low pedal.

Bed in new pads per following method.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...and-procedures

Rudeney

Ditto and double-ditto. That is the bedding method to use. And again, I recommend knocking-down the rotors if you don't replace them. Even though you won't remove the grooves, you remove the shine that reflects heat back into the new pads, which is a critical problem during the break-in.

Glyn M Ruck

+1^

mis3

With my other cars, they would replace the rotors every second time I replaced the pad. The other time they only "machined" the disks.

With my w209, I have change brakes twice and everytime they replaced the rotors as well.

Rudeney

Machining or "turning" is good if you have warped rotors or very deep grooves, but it does remove a lot of the material so that's why they replace them at every other pad change. If the rotors aren't warped or grooved (i.e. by wearing the pads to the metal), then knocking down does just as good and doesn't remove much depth from the rotors, so you might get three sets of pads on them. Also, some shops don;t like to turn drilled and/or slotted rotors.