Just wondering if anyone has tried to recharge their own A/C....

My car is not cooling terribly well (likely symptomatic of a bigger problem I realize) and I was thinking about just doing a quick-n-dirty auto parts store recharge.

Wondering what the downside is, if any? Working under the assumption that there's a longer-term, more expensive repair in my future...

Input appreciated!

~ Bill

 

i would like to know how to do this *** well

 

You guys mean out of one of those freon cans?...



Angelo

 

yesh

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...g-hot-air.html

And then follow the instructions on the bottle...charge it all while the car/ a/c is on...but if you're having to recharge you may have a leak somewhere...



Angelo

 

Ha thanks not that hard to do.

Mine is blowing cold air though i just think its not cooling the car as fast as before. Maybe its just in my head i dont know ...

What level do you guys usually keep it while driving?

 

Recharging with one of those cheap parts store kits is easy. On a nice warm day, start the car, turn the A/C on max, then connect the charger according to its instructions. Rev the engine to around 1,200rpm and then gently shake or swirl the refrigerant can but DO NOT turn it upside down as that would dump liquid into the low-pressure side of the system and that could cause problems. Generally, you can't really overcharge with these kits as the cans don't have enough pressure in them. Some people will put the can in a bucket of hat water to help vaporize the contents, and that could result in an overcharge.

 

+1 Also the low side port is on the dirver side next to the ECU (a little above it) it has a small black cap on it. Unscrew cap --> connect refrigerent to low side port --> turn AC on MAX --> and spray the gas in (if you got the pressurized one, or just let it suck it in if you got the can version)

Dont worry to connect to the high side port, because the adaptor only fits on the low side port. If you are forcing it, it's not in the right hole

 

I actually went ahead and did this - using the can with the gauge (a/c pro) and it seemed to work (though I did turn the can upside down and moved it around a lot). Got an OK pressure reading, seemed to be blowing a bit cooler, then - BLAM - big noise, cloud of smoke from under the hood, which quickly dissipated, but could still smell an oily, ozone-y odor - which persisted for a 40+ mile drive that I took lastnight.

Wonder if the system was bleeding off excess pressure? I head a few "pffft" noises as I was driving around.

Then, after the car sat overnight, I started it up, and it seems like the system is OK, cooling a bit better and no noises. Driving from the Bay Area to Bakersfield today, so we'll see if it blows up or not...

 

That doesn't sound good. AFAIK, there is no "pressure relief" like this. If the A/C is still working, it might have been something unrelated.

 

Outcome not good at all... no a/c at all now. Shut the system down completely and driving with the windows down. Goes to the dealer on Monday, I think this is gonna be a spendy mistake. Ugh.

 

Please keep us updated.
You might not have made it worse.

 

Got the car back yesterday - $185 to set things right. I overfilled it, but no damage...I was expecting a much higher bill.

 

how the ac temp after the dealer did its job ??

 

Recharged my car with a can of a/c pro. after a can was finished, the final pressure reading seemed the same as the initial reading (in green zone - around 65F ambient temp. today is 75 degrees here). How come? Also, I didn't see active clutch engagements as those seen in other cars? Have I missed anything?


Thank you,
Paul

 

You won't see the compressor clutch engage. It uses an internal swash plate.

 

Thank you, Rodney.


a whole 17 oz fluid was added and I didn't see pressure went up. Any idea on that?


Best,
Paul

 

Actually, the low side pressure (where you charge) should go down. If you aren't getting results from a DIY recharge kit, you may need to get a technician to diagnose it with with a proper guage set that can read both high and low side.

 

Can any one post the High and Low pressure specs I have a set of gauges and want to know what they are supposed to read.

 

Thank you again, Rodney.


Update: I got a chance to drive the car today and it was about 80 degrees. The AC seemed not cooling (though not blowing hot air either) and the radiator fan ran at max speed (like crazy). What should I check? Any switchers? does anyone know good indy MB technicians in New York City or long island?


Thanks,
Paul

 

I just tried refilling my AC and the freon was just shooting out from the front of the car. Obviously there some major rupture.. does anyone know where this rupture is? The freon gas was coming out from the grill/radiator area.

 

If it is coming from the front of the car it is probably a ruptured condenser or the line leading to it.

 

Paul, try the ACC test/reset holding the RECIRC and FRONT DEFOG and buttons together until their lights blink. If they don't stop blinking, you have a fault code stored that needs diagnosis. If they do stop, then it's a refrigerant issue.

 

Thank you, Rodney.


I did the reset and the lights blinked only for a few secends and then went out.


I posted wrong info. the fan is on highest speed only when a/c is at Max cooling. I guess it is normal, right?


Now I need to let a dealer to check out how much freon is in my car's AC.


Have a nice weekend.
Paul

 

Yes, the engine suction fan will run at highest speed when the AC is on max.