Fatalfury

Where can I charge the freon or check for a possible leak? What other issues might cause this to happen. Please help

SZMB

There's a low pressure valve under the hood. You can buy a pressure gauge from any auto store for under $10 and measure the freon pressure with the engine and AC running. If freon is low, there's a leak, which is usually caused by a leaky o-ring gasket. A good indy shop can find the leak, fix it and recharge for under $200.

Fatalfury

thanks, ill get it and check it out. Is the valve easy to access?

SZMB

Remove the engine cover, you'll see it. It's a small plastic cap, about a couple of cm in diameter. Sorry, i don't have picture.

Fatalfury

Is that it? I opened the engine cover and did not find any cap that is about 1cm in diameter, but what I circled in the picture is the closest thing.

guofan

You can troubleshoot it from your steering wheel. check this out.
http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/acdiag.html

I have a different problem. I drive the car, turn a/c on, no air or very lil air comes out, drive a lil more (maybe couple mins), cold a/c comes and stay on.
I turn a/c off, turn it back on, same delay occur except there will be cold air come out at the beginning, then air stops, drive a lil, a/c works like a champ again.
wtf is gong on???

SZMB

That's the one. There are two valves: high pressure and low pressure valves. That looks like the low pressure valve. The valves are of different sizes anyway, so that avoids having the gauge connected to the wrong valve. You charge freon thru the low pressure valve.

SZMB

That sounds like the blower motor resistor is on its way out. A common problem in MBs and BMWs. It's a $170 part online, go to www.autohausaz.com to search for this part for your model. The motor resistor is located under the glove box (passenger side). Here's the link to DIY for the E class W211. The procedure is pretty much the same for all modern MBs. You're replacing the motor resistor and not the fan. This resistor is located right next to the blower fan.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...e-control.html

Fatalfury

thanks man! yeah i saw the high pressure one on the passenger side next to the engine.. def diff size. I'll try everything out this weekend. Hopefully that will fix the problem!

Fatalfury

problem is fixed! thanks!

SZMB

Cool! Hopefully that fixes the problem. If the A/C air gets warm again in the future, there's probably a slow leak thru one of the valves/connections. An indy shop can typically fix the leak for under $200.

guofan

Thanks a lot man.

tho_x_tran

My CLK320 Year 2000 with only 70K Miles is blowing warm air, dealer diagnostic reveals leaks and suggests replacing the two hoses : A/C Hose Receiver/Drier to Expansion Valve and A/C Hose Condenser to Drier and the Drier itlsef. Other parts are Sealed-Kits are not mentioned. Is it not too difficult to replace by a handy amateur ? Dealer wants to charge almost $1K for labor which I don't know if that is reasonable or not.

Any instruction is greatly appreciated.

Rudeney

If you have the equipment and tools to work on the A/C system, then you can DIY, but if not, I'd find a good indy to do the work - their labor rates and overhead charges are generally less than the dealer.

tho_x_tran

I don't know how to locate the hoses even though I have seen the pictures of the parts, is there anyone who has already done this to this car model 2000 CLK 320 that can help ? Thank you.

Rudeney

Don't take this the wrong way, but if you can't locate the condenser and drier hoses just by looking under the hood, then you might want to leave this job to the experts.