CLK-Class (W209) 2003 on: CLK 270 CDI, CLK 200K, CLK 200 CGI, CLK 240, CLK 320, CLK 350, CLK 500, CLK 550 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 11:56 PM
  #26  
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The ESP error may be simple - sometimes when the battery is disconnected, it loses calibration of the steering angle sensor and it has to be reset. Do this by starting the engine, then turning the steering wheel fully lock to lock twice.

Disconnecting the battery should not have triggered an SRS fault unless the mechanic was really sloppy any let the sparks fly trying to reconnect it. The problem is, SRS errors don't clear themselves - you have to have SDS (MBZ shop diagnostics) to do that. You need to get the SRS codes scanned (again, this requires SDS - generic OBDII scanners won't access the SRS system) to see what the fault is and try resetting it.

On the jerking, this could be many things. Try the "TCU reset" procedure (search the forum - it's a procedure you do with the ignition switch and accelerator pedal). Also, check the TCU for oil intrusion - it's under the carpet and sound insulation of the passenger-side floorboard sloped area. Pull the carpet down from under the dash, then remove the insulation panel, and you'll find the TCU behind the metal pan there. If you see oil on the wiring, you may have that problem. Otherwise, get the TCU codes checked when you have the SRS codes checked.
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 03:37 AM
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Should I bring it to a Mercedes Benz dealership first or my used dealership (warranty). It shouldn't cost that much just to check and or fix right? Thanks Rodney
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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Certainly if you have a warranty from the seller, use that. But try the steering angle calibration first - at least it will rule out that as being the problem with the ESP light.
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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I just tried that, not sure if I did it correctly but I turned the wheel all the way left and right 2 times, not sure if it clears right away or after a while. I was in park if that matters haha
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:28 AM
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It is an '03... transmission issue could also potentially be caused by a faulty valeo radiator leaking coolant into the transmission fluid. When my dad was looking for his a few months back, the one we ended up buying was an '04 (built in 03) and in immaculate condition with only 16,000 miles, which suffered from jerky and hesitant shifting when we test drove it. Our indy mechanic confirmed our suspicions about the bad radiator and fluid contamination, fortunately the dealer was extremely accommodating and paid for a new radiator, torque converter, and transmission fluid flush done by our indy. Shouldn't be too hard to check for, look at your radiator for a valeo sticker, and have a mechanic test your transmission fluid for contamination, or alternatively do it online through http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ , hope this helps!
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 02:37 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Drummajorc
It is an '03... transmission issue could also potentially be caused by a faulty valeo radiator leaking coolant into the transmission fluid. When my dad was looking for his a few months back, the one we ended up buying was an '04 (built in 03) and in immaculate condition with only 16,000 miles, which suffered from jerky and hesitant shifting when we test drove it. Our indy mechanic confirmed our suspicions about the bad radiator and fluid contamination, fortunately the dealer was extremely accommodating and paid for a new radiator, torque converter, and transmission fluid flush done by our indy. Shouldn't be too hard to check for, look at your radiator for a valeo sticker, and have a mechanic test your transmission fluid for contamination, or alternatively do it online through http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ , hope this helps!
I'll check that as well
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 09:14 PM
  #32  
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Here's an easy way to tell the bad Valeo from the good, revised Behr:

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...42&postcount=3

As for the ESP steering angle calibration, yes, turn the steering wheel fully lock to lock twice (or three times) with the engine running and in park. The ESP light goes out once it is calibrated. If that doesn't do it, then it may not be the sensor - it may be some other problem.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 01:18 PM
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Srs light is on, recently install a sound system, tech said its cause of him DC the battery, it should go away in a day or 2 true? everything was great till I drove off and my trunk kept opening every few feet while driving LOL I was thinking its the bass so I took off the "release button" in the trunk, issue resolved (Y)
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 04:05 PM
  #34  
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My 2 cents, get a CLK 500,550 or 55. trust me, i purchased a clk350 and would kiill V8. take a look in the classified section, there are 2 or 3 good CLKs in there for like 2 grand more then what you listed here.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 06:31 PM
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Picked up option D, 2003 CLK500 a few days ago. And I love her!!! LOL
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 11:13 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Rogue-CLK
Srs light is on, recently install a sound system, tech said its cause of him DC the battery, it should go away in a day or 2 true? everything was great till I drove off and my trunk kept opening every few feet while driving LOL I was thinking its the bass so I took off the "release button" in the trunk, issue resolved (Y)
It may be because the ignition switch was turned on to test things with the upper console panel disconnected. It has the passenger airbag light on it and if the system detects that it is not working, it triggers a "permanent" SRS error. It will require SDS (or Carsoft) to reset.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 11:37 PM
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Damn, well if it doesn't go away, the tech will erase it for me, assuming he will use a SDS. Better be a free service on my end -_- and what u said above couldn't he prevented this from happening?
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 11:41 PM
  #38  
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Yes, if this is the cause, it could have been prevented by plugging the panel in before switching on the ignition.
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