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Car engine died at stop light, dash lit up like christmas tree

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Old 03-07-2013 | 08:27 PM
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2003 CLK500
Car engine died at stop light, dash lit up like christmas tree

Car: 2003 CLK 500 W209

This morning I had to drive to a store about a mile away. Windshield defroster was on nearly full blast. I turned the car on as normal and drove there just fine got what I needed and got back in the car. I turn it back on and drive it as normal back home. Engine temperature was about 40-60C (not fully warmed up). Windshield defroster was on nearly full blast. Gas tank 1/4 way full. Fueled up with premium gas (92 octane) as always about a few days ago.

About half was to my home I press on the break to stop at the red light. The car violently jerks back and forth (as if ABS and traction control are engaging). All the lights on the dash come on, CEL, ABS, SRS and the engine completely turns off as if I've just turned the key off (but had it in position 2, like you would if you want to check the oil level when all the lights on the dash go on). I'm not too sure of the timing (whether the engine died first and the lights on the dash lit up, or the lights lit up and then the engine died) because I was pretty shocked it happened.

I turned the key off and then started the car back on. It seemed to start back on fine but the break pedal felt as if it was still shakey. No warning lights on the dash or anything. I drove about 2000-3000 feet more and pulled into a lot. I pressed the break again and the engine felt like it was starting to stall, the car was jerking forward a bit (as if the breaks weren't working properly). The engine almost died again. It was so close to dying I thought it would die again for sure but made it through.

I parked, turned the car off, ran the codes. Took off the air filter box and put it back on to make sure it was seated properly. No engine codes. No transmission codes. I turned the car back and ran a complete diagnosis. Only minor codes, from the time a light bulb died and I had to replace it but didn't reset the codes.

The engine warmed up to temp by the time I finished running codes. I put the car in reverse, backed out and decided to take it for a drive. Drove around the neighborhood. Blower/defroster off (nothing electronic turned on in the car). Drives as normal. Cycled through all the gears multiple times without a hiccup just fine. Monitored live EGS(ETC) data as I was driving just in case there was something off with the tranny. Drives as if nothing has happened. Ran codes. No engine codes. No transmission codes. The crankshaft position sensor was changed last year as a preventative measure (though I never had a problem with the car shutting off when hot or any other symptoms of a bad crankshaft position sensor).

Checked battery voltage several days ago. About 12.5v cold at 20F or so. When the alternator is running it's 14.4v - 14.5v. Can the car just die if the battery voltage falls below a certain threshold? Never got a "low battery" light on the dash.

Took the car out later that night and put another 5-10 miles on it. Running just fine as if nothing happened earlier. Filled up the tank to 3/4 full at the gas station. Been looking online for anyone with a similar situation but haven't found anything definitive. Just some people here and there having a similar issue without any solution or anything to go on.

What the eff is going on?

Last edited by clkmb; 03-07-2013 at 08:33 PM.
Old 03-08-2013 | 10:32 AM
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With no codes, that really sounds like an electrical problem. Have you done any work recently? If so, check to make sure you didn't disturb any wiring harnesses in the area. Check the front SAM for water/oil intrusion. Also, if you still have a battery with access, get a hygrometer and check the specific gravity of each cell. I've seen internal shorts between warped plates inside a battery cause electrical surges with symptoms like this.
Old 04-04-2013 | 05:05 PM
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2003 CLK500
Problem: Damaged torque converter.
Solution: Transmission rebuild.
Result: Car is operational again.

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