WTF! Vanity mirror lights W209 CLK350
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Houston
W222 s550 , BMW 535i 15’
WTF! Vanity mirror lights W209 CLK350
I have a 2006 clk350 and since i bought it CPO in 08 I have had so many mixed emotions... the car drives well, but I noticed that EVERYTHING plastic/vinyl turns to crap, breaks off or wears away.
(I can't tell you how many clips I/my mechanic has broken because they are so dam flimsy.... I hear they are biodegradable...
)
well my vanity mirror on my driver side SWEAKS and CREAKS like crazy when i pull it down, it seems like it expands in the heat, and its fine in the cold. passanger side is ok.
Last year my passanger light went out. it would only come on if you opened the flap a few times and let it sit...finally itd turn on... I tried everything including changing the bulbs nothing worked... i even bought a DMM and tested the current... its good! i got fed up and decided i would order a new one... the next week THE DRIVER SIDE DIES TOO!
Are these parts really that disposable????
Edit: Sorry if this is already in another thread.
(I can't tell you how many clips I/my mechanic has broken because they are so dam flimsy.... I hear they are biodegradable...
)well my vanity mirror on my driver side SWEAKS and CREAKS like crazy when i pull it down, it seems like it expands in the heat, and its fine in the cold. passanger side is ok.
Last year my passanger light went out. it would only come on if you opened the flap a few times and let it sit...finally itd turn on... I tried everything including changing the bulbs nothing worked... i even bought a DMM and tested the current... its good! i got fed up and decided i would order a new one... the next week THE DRIVER SIDE DIES TOO!
Are these parts really that disposable????
Edit: Sorry if this is already in another thread.
Last edited by mecca281; Jun 27, 2013 at 05:14 PM.
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On these lighted mirrors, the contacts are on the inside visor hinges (the ones that snap loose to fold the visor to the side). If the visor is not snapped in correctly or has moved side to side, the contacts might not be mating.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Houston
W222 s550 , BMW 535i 15’
Ill definitely check it out tonight.
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I put a drop of conducting oil (Corrosion Block) on the contacts Rudeney mentioned and that made the visors easier in and out, and cured the flickering. Used the same oil on the R taillights that have been a major problem, and that ended that.
Been using Corrosion Block for over 20 years to stop corrosion on salt-water boats and everything else. Buy it at a marine store. Not cheap, but a little goes a long way.
And with a cab, better chance of water getting to the contacts?
Been using Corrosion Block for over 20 years to stop corrosion on salt-water boats and everything else. Buy it at a marine store. Not cheap, but a little goes a long way.
And with a cab, better chance of water getting to the contacts?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 66
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From: Houston
W222 s550 , BMW 535i 15’
I put a drop of conducting oil (Corrosion Block) on the contacts Rudeney mentioned and that made the visors easier in and out, and cured the flickering. Used the same oil on the R taillights that have been a major problem, and that ended that.
Been using Corrosion Block for over 20 years to stop corrosion on salt-water boats and everything else. Buy it at a marine store. Not cheap, but a little goes a long way.
And with a cab, better chance of water getting to the contacts?
Been using Corrosion Block for over 20 years to stop corrosion on salt-water boats and everything else. Buy it at a marine store. Not cheap, but a little goes a long way.
And with a cab, better chance of water getting to the contacts?
the contacts look fine but i cleaned them just in case... still nothing.
ill try the conducting oil tomorrow...
also i wonder if i may have bought the wrong bulbs as i did try replacing them when they first went out.
when i first installed the replacement bulbs, the light hesitated for about 4 secs then came on... it later went off again and stayed off.
I really do hope I can fix this issue without purchasing replacement mirrors... somehow i think the problem may rear its ugly face again.
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Hmm, that does sound like you might have used the wrong bulbs, especially since both went out. The MBZ part number is N000000002723 - it's a 12v, 5w bulb. Also, check for power it the connectors to make sure something hasn't come unplugged. I believe these are on the same fuse for the overhead control panel, so if it is working, it's not the fuse.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 66
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From: Houston
W222 s550 , BMW 535i 15’
Hmm, that does sound like you might have used the wrong bulbs, especially since both went out. The MBZ part number is N000000002723 - it's a 12v, 5w bulb. Also, check for power it the connectors to make sure something hasn't come unplugged. I believe these are on the same fuse for the overhead control panel, so if it is working, it's not the fuse.
I used my DMM and tested the contacts.. I got 12v but I am not getting any reading when I test the bulb holder wiring. (I Tested it with contacts mating and flap open) meaning there should have been power to the bulb.
It seems I have a loose wire somewhere.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the vanity bulb or front dash area?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Houston
W222 s550 , BMW 535i 15’
thanks for all the useful info on this site guys!
Still on this issue with my vanity mirror lights, I finally got some free time today and was able to open the overhead panel. Broke another clip of course
(I wish I hadn't but at least it helped me diagnose the problem)
While taking the panel down the two contacts mated and completed the circuit as seen in picture 3 and the bulb came on. this leads me to believe the wiring is indeed fine and the problem is with the two vanity mirrors themselves.
I will be replacing both soon... any advice on where I can purchase these to match?
Also any comments on my findings is really appreciated.
Thanks!
Still on this issue with my vanity mirror lights, I finally got some free time today and was able to open the overhead panel. Broke another clip of course
(I wish I hadn't but at least it helped me diagnose the problem)
While taking the panel down the two contacts mated and completed the circuit as seen in picture 3 and the bulb came on. this leads me to believe the wiring is indeed fine and the problem is with the two vanity mirrors themselves.
I will be replacing both soon... any advice on where I can purchase these to match?
Also any comments on my findings is really appreciated.
Thanks!
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Before I'd spend the money, I'd make a last ditch effort at cleaning the contacting points on the visor and inside the clip.
By cleaning, I mean using crocus cloth or very fine sandpaper... anything to get all contact areas bright and shiny. Then apply Corrosion Block or something equal. Reading your posts and seeing the pics, I just can't help thinking "compromised conduction".
I like to keep my cash in my pocket. I'll do ANYTHING to make it work!
Good luck! I know how these little things can bug ya!
Another experience with MB 'bad contact': I've got LED running lights in both cars. Last month the dash on the R tells me "left running light is out:. Odd, when I turned on the lights, the left LED would flash on and off about 9 times, then stay off and the dash warning came on. I pulled the little 'bulb', bench tested it, and it worked fine. The contacts looked OK, but I smeared a tiny bit of Corrosion Block on the contacts, then pushed the bulb in and out of the socket couple of times, rubbing the contacts together. Problem solved. I wonder if there was enough current to charge the LED for a second through a compromised contact, then not enough to keep it on. Then after several tries, did my MB, in its wisdom, think "Oh, something ain't right, BULB OUT!" Waaay to much artificial intelligence. The car, not me.
Just in case... I have no financial interest in Corrosion Block or whomever makes it. Comes from Mississagua, Canada. I have always had problems with their spray cans running out of propulsion before it's empty, but I just poke a hole in the can and use it that way. It doesn't 'spray' like WD40, but comes out in a foamy mess. But it's one hell of a product.
By cleaning, I mean using crocus cloth or very fine sandpaper... anything to get all contact areas bright and shiny. Then apply Corrosion Block or something equal. Reading your posts and seeing the pics, I just can't help thinking "compromised conduction".
I like to keep my cash in my pocket. I'll do ANYTHING to make it work!
Good luck! I know how these little things can bug ya!
Another experience with MB 'bad contact': I've got LED running lights in both cars. Last month the dash on the R tells me "left running light is out:. Odd, when I turned on the lights, the left LED would flash on and off about 9 times, then stay off and the dash warning came on. I pulled the little 'bulb', bench tested it, and it worked fine. The contacts looked OK, but I smeared a tiny bit of Corrosion Block on the contacts, then pushed the bulb in and out of the socket couple of times, rubbing the contacts together. Problem solved. I wonder if there was enough current to charge the LED for a second through a compromised contact, then not enough to keep it on. Then after several tries, did my MB, in its wisdom, think "Oh, something ain't right, BULB OUT!" Waaay to much artificial intelligence. The car, not me.
Just in case... I have no financial interest in Corrosion Block or whomever makes it. Comes from Mississagua, Canada. I have always had problems with their spray cans running out of propulsion before it's empty, but I just poke a hole in the can and use it that way. It doesn't 'spray' like WD40, but comes out in a foamy mess. But it's one hell of a product.
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Clk350
Stephen
Before I'd spend the money, I'd make a last ditch effort at cleaning the contacting points on the visor and inside the clip.
By cleaning, I mean using crocus cloth or very fine sandpaper... anything to get all contact areas bright and shiny. Then apply Corrosion Block or something equal. Reading your posts and seeing the pics, I just can't help thinking "compromised conduction".
I like to keep my cash in my pocket. I'll do ANYTHING to make it work!
Good luck! I know how these little things can bug ya!
Another experience with MB 'bad contact': I've got LED running lights in both cars. Last month the dash on the R tells me "left running light is out:. Odd, when I turned on the lights, the left LED would flash on and off about 9 times, then stay off and the dash warning came on. I pulled the little 'bulb', bench tested it, and it worked fine. The contacts looked OK, but I smeared a tiny bit of Corrosion Block on the contacts, then pushed the bulb in and out of the socket couple of times, rubbing the contacts together. Problem solved. I wonder if there was enough current to charge the LED for a second through a compromised contact, then not enough to keep it on. Then after several tries, did my MB, in its wisdom, think "Oh, something ain't right, BULB OUT!" Waaay to much artificial intelligence. The car, not me.
Just in case... I have no financial interest in Corrosion Block or whomever makes it. Comes from Mississagua, Canada. I have always had problems with their spray cans running out of propulsion before it's empty, but I just poke a hole in the can and use it that way. It doesn't 'spray' like WD40, but comes out in a foamy mess. But it's one hell of a product.
By cleaning, I mean using crocus cloth or very fine sandpaper... anything to get all contact areas bright and shiny. Then apply Corrosion Block or something equal. Reading your posts and seeing the pics, I just can't help thinking "compromised conduction".
I like to keep my cash in my pocket. I'll do ANYTHING to make it work!
Good luck! I know how these little things can bug ya!
Another experience with MB 'bad contact': I've got LED running lights in both cars. Last month the dash on the R tells me "left running light is out:. Odd, when I turned on the lights, the left LED would flash on and off about 9 times, then stay off and the dash warning came on. I pulled the little 'bulb', bench tested it, and it worked fine. The contacts looked OK, but I smeared a tiny bit of Corrosion Block on the contacts, then pushed the bulb in and out of the socket couple of times, rubbing the contacts together. Problem solved. I wonder if there was enough current to charge the LED for a second through a compromised contact, then not enough to keep it on. Then after several tries, did my MB, in its wisdom, think "Oh, something ain't right, BULB OUT!" Waaay to much artificial intelligence. The car, not me.
Just in case... I have no financial interest in Corrosion Block or whomever makes it. Comes from Mississagua, Canada. I have always had problems with their spray cans running out of propulsion before it's empty, but I just poke a hole in the can and use it that way. It doesn't 'spray' like WD40, but comes out in a foamy mess. But it's one hell of a product.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 66
Likes: 6
From: Houston
W222 s550 , BMW 535i 15’
Does anyone know the difference between a clk350 vs clk350 convertible sun visor? One is $97 the other $180.. Lol
Also I looked at parts.com as suggested and also mymercedes parts.com, same thing.
Question does anyone know if being a member of mercedes benz club of America gets you discounts on parts?
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Thanks for the info. Ive decided to purchase 2 new mirrors, they are creaking really loudly anyway.
Does anyone know the difference between a clk350 vs clk350 convertible sun visor? One is $97 the other $180.. Lol
Also I looked at parts.com as suggested and also mymercedes parts.com, same thing.
Question does anyone know if being a member of mercedes benz club of America gets you discounts on parts?
Does anyone know the difference between a clk350 vs clk350 convertible sun visor? One is $97 the other $180.. Lol
Also I looked at parts.com as suggested and also mymercedes parts.com, same thing.
Question does anyone know if being a member of mercedes benz club of America gets you discounts on parts?
I kill myself! My apologies.
I don't know the physical diff, but I can imagine there would be something, given the weather exposure.Discount on parts for MBCA members varies. One of our 2 local dealers gives 15% on parts, the other 20%. Also get special labor rates from both. I've saved the cost of membership many times over.
