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Thank you. I'll try to understand this diagram. One more question. Can the seat belt extenders be reset? If I disconnect the battery would that reset them, or it can cause more problems? I've never disconnected the battery on my Mercedes.
I doubt it's a simple a s a reset, but you can certainly try that. If you do this, be careful not to "stutter" when you remove and replace the lead on the terminal. You will get a small spark, but it won't hurt you or the car. If you stutter and create some "fireworks", you can damage the sensitive electronics in the car.
The SmartTop should not affect it, but just in case it's doing something weird, you might want to disconnect it to check. If you didn't install it, it should be located behind the side panel in the driver's footwell (next to the parking brake pedal). Here'a a link to their installation manual showing it:
I'd just unplug its wiring harness and give things a try. If that fixes it, the first thing I'd do is make sure you have it updated to the latest firmware. With it unplugged, you can take it to the workbench and connect it to your PC via USB cable and use their updater software:
Hi
HELP
I have a 2004 clk500 convertible. Passenger seat belt presenter does not present. Dome light switch works when door opens. Drive presenter works. What are the possible fixes or problems. I can pull out bar manually so it isn't binding.
Thanx
stu
First of all, are the windows normalized? If not, do that first. Then reset the "rear" door controllers by pulling fuses #32 and #33 (fuse panel on the end of the dash, driver's side).
First of all, are the windows normalized? If not, do that first. Then reset the "rear" door controllers by pulling fuses #32 and #33 (fuse panel on the end of the dash, driver's side).
I did remove the fuses and replace them with new. Upon opening the doors and closing them the windows "normalize". The interior lights to not turn on nor the MFD on the dash show the door is open upon opening the door with the engine running. But if you put it in drive and open the door the warnings go off. The top opens and closes and the partition safety switch works.
I think the controller is bad.
Your thoughts?
Sounds like a bad plunger switch to detect that the door is closed. This is located on the B pillar, right below the door latch.
I think the plunger is a mechanical switch so it only send an open/close signal to ??? the controller ? or a distribution point ? Because how does the car know the door is open when I put it in drive but not when I have it in park as to activate the dome light ? The windows normalize as well so that switch is working, don't you think so ? Unless it has multiple points of contact and more than one signal wire to signal its position. I'll pull the switch tomorrow and short it to see if that's the issue.
There is also a sensor int he door lock/latch assembly. I think the windows use that signal to make them raise and lower when opening the door, but the dome light, door open sensor, and seat belt extenders work off the plunger switch. Or at least that's how I remember it. I no longer have a CLK, so maybe another forum member can check theirs. It;s easy - just open the door an manually operate the plunger switch.
There is also a sensor int he door lock/latch assembly. I think the windows use that signal to make them raise and lower when opening the door, but the dome light, door open sensor, and seat belt extenders work off the plunger switch. Or at least that's how I remember it. I no longer have a CLK, so maybe another forum member can check theirs. It;s easy - just open the door an manually operate the plunger switch.
That must be it then, no kidding I didn't know there was a door sensor besides the plunger.. I'll check it tomorrow. Good info.
Does anyone know what connector at the soft top controller (see pic) controls the sat belt presenters on 2005 CLK500 convertible? Both don't work with cods B1401, B1501, B1407 and B1507. Door switch works, motors were tested, fuses 32 and 33 are fine. Thank you.
The door plunger is located under the striker and it is perfect, two very fine wires work as does the plunger. Took the two wires and connected them, the windows reset, etc. Not the problem, must be the controller located in the trunk, anyone replace this ? Cost ? part number ?
Does anyone know what connector at the soft top controller (see pic) controls the sat belt presenters on 2005 CLK500 convertible? Both don't work with cods B1401, B1501, B1407 and B1507. Door switch works, motors were tested, fuses 32 and 33 are fine. Thank you.
The door plunger is located under the striker and it is perfect, two very fine wires work as does the plunger. Took the two wires and connected them, the windows reset, etc. Not the problem, must be the controller located in the trunk, anyone replace this ? Cost ? part number ?
Before throwing parts at it, I'd get it hooked up to SDS to pull codes and also do test actuations of the extenders. If it is a bad controller, it can be replaced with a used one - it does not requires SCN coding.
Before throwing parts at it, I'd get it hooked up to SDS to pull codes and also do test actuations of the extenders. If it is a bad controller, it can be replaced with a used one - it does not requires SCN coding.
I just tried to put the top down today and I heard a whining noise but he top worked. Checked all the plungers and such, no fluid anywhere and the reservoir is at the right level. The hatch that covers the top when it's down decided to close before the rear glass part of the top was secured. So now the rear part of the top is resting on the hatch and I can't put the top down to reset it.
This is nuts...
The soft top controller seems to be working, nothing wrong with the top except the fluid was low and the pump sucked up some air causing foaming, Just topped it off with some p/s fluid and it works fine with no more noises, actually faster and quieter as prior to this issue.
The interior lights work, everything works in accordance to the door plunger.
Mechanic stated that there is such a slim possibility that the controller is bad if the top works and said its the last thing to change out since it's a non-returnable item from MB. Ebay has a dozen for sale out of wrecks for less that $200. Some actually will take a return so if it doesn't fix the issue your take no chances.
Mine, on the drivers side, wasn't working until the moment I did clear the codes with the scanner. The code was something like "to many unsuccessful attempts" or similar wording. But after I did clear the code - it started to work properly.
Mine, on the drivers side, wasn't working until the moment I did clear the codes with the scanner. The code was something like "to many unsuccessful attempts" or similar wording. But after I did clear the code - it started to work properly.
is a code reader necessary ?
Is it possible to just disconnect the controller and re-connect it ? I don't' have a code reader that allows resets.
Maybe I'll try it and then let all know. This issue didn't start until I replaced the battery.
Hard to advice, if disconnecting clears the codes or no, since I didn't try it. I was actually pretty sure, that the controller or presenter arm are damaged since the arm was half way out and didn't move at all. I erased the codes and it did retract. I was kinda surprised.
In overall I'm not a fan of disconnecting the battery as long as there is no absolute need to. Even those ice age cars have quite a few modules, that doesn't like the power fluctuations. The processor in the light control module on my BMW was erased when I tried to start the car with a weak battery. It was a challenge then to program the firmware back.
I had the same problem as was described by fernmc user. I solve the problem. It was necessary to replace the arm with the motor attached (Mercedes P/N 203 860 01 82). I find that part on eBay (SH) , I paid 25 USD.
That assemble contain one motor with step sensor inside of motor brush and one switch on the arm. On first time I check the arm switch, everything was Ok, then I check the motor, also working fine... Only the problem was because I cannot check the sensor from inside of motor brush so I think the problem is come from that sensor...
After replacement of arm extender assembly the problem was solved.
Have you been able to solve this problem. I have the exact same one.
Replace the extender assembly. I had same problem, it was solved after extender assembly was replaced (MB 203 860 01 82). If the problem is on the sensor inside brush motor this cannot be fixed. The switch on the arm can be tested with multimeter, only this can be replaced in case of malfunction, otherwise must replace the motor assembly.
04-14-2017, 10:58 PM
