Rudeney

What about the fuel filler cap - is it on tight? Also, make sure its gasket is good.

Rogue-CLK

How can I tell if the gaskets good? And usually I close it to a point where it doesn't click, like close then 1 more to make it tight. Oh been using 94 octane lol earlier I though warming up the car to temp prevents the stall-like symptoms, but still happens. right when I get a check engine light I use the reader and always get those 2 codes.

Rogue-CLK

Wow just realized I wrote the wrong codes... Correct codes are...
P0104 (MAF VAF circuit intermittent)
P0221(TPS/pedal position sensor switch ckt range/performance)
P0456 (Evap emission control system leak very small)

So issue was or always was p0221... Can't find link to a diy or cost of part. Switch B btw

Rudeney

I don't see a translation from P0221 to an MBA-specific DTC. Problems with the throttle can sometimes be solved by resetting its calibration. There are instructions on the forum - most people call it the "ECU" or "TCU" reset.

Rogue-CLK

I'll give that a try, and forgot to mention I disconnected the battery while removing, cleaning, MAF sensor. Every time I dc the battery everything works fine lol. The ecu reset is the same as dc the battery?

Rogue-CLK

If it doesn't work or it temporary works I wanna replace it but which 1? I'm assuming there's 2, 1 under the gas pedal and under the hood, mines TPS/pedal position sensor switch "B"

Rudeney

D/C the battery will not "reset the ECU". Note that the procedure is actually not any sort of "reset" - it just recalibrates the throttle control to the electronic accelerator pedal.

Rogue-CLK

Did the ecu reset and drove for about 40KM or 25miles all is good checked for codes P0104 (MAF VAF circuit intermittent)
P0221(TPS/pedal position sensor switch ckt range/performance) ALL PENDING, NO FAULTS. If it's pending is that something I should b worried about? Can't believe a simple procedure fixes itself and no need to buy new parts, Thanks Rudeney*

Rudeney

Sometimes you can get some intermittent errors. The the throttle calibration can be fairly sensitive. if you were cleaning it and disturbed the wiring harness or butterfly, that can throw it off.

Rogue-CLK

I haven't clean it ever, (should I?) I'm terrified of driving it hard praying every time I step on the gas it doesn't "choke" "stutter"

Rudeney

Cleaning the throttle body is not "normal" maintenance, but I have seen some get a bit "gunky" making the butterfly stick.

Rogue-CLK

Over 200km put on the car and so far so good. Still praying every time I accelerate it doesn't stutter or hesitate. I assumed I needed to warm up the car for like 10 mins or when the oil temp reaches the midway point to drive but now we know it's not the case, u think it's ok to drive sooner?

Rudeney

I start and drive immediately. But I do tend to be a little more gentle until the temp is up.

Rogue-CLK

Yeah I used to do that too, well I wait till it idles lower. But maybe it's just in my head but I'm thinking that's the reason it malfunctions. I'll try the start and go. Engines cold been sitting for a couple hrs now. Hoping for the best.

Rogue-CLK

Tried the start and go, works just fine doesn't really shift when it's supposed to but that's expected when it's not completely up to temp.

gogos

Check the link for your engine code. Maybe it help you.
http://engine-codes.com/p0221_mercedes-benz.html
Possible Causes:
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) harness is open or shorted
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
- Fault Electric Throttle Control Actuator (or Throttle Body Motor)
- Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APP)

Rogue-CLK

I had to reset my ecu/tcu again. Hopefully I don't have to keep doing this. I did this b4 it gave me a MIL. It stuttered so I'm doing it now as u read this haha