Rogue-CLK

Car feels like it's stalling, same situation right before transmission died and needed to be replaced 10,000 km ago it's under warranty but idk if it's that, maybe misfire? The coil packs has oil on it.

Rudeney

The first thing I'd do is get the codes pulled. Oil on the coil packs is common, the source of the leak is likely bad valve cover seals, and I doubt that has anything to do with the MIL .

xsever

You need to pull the codes for us so we get an idea of what's happening.

Rogue-CLK

Two choices 1 get codes for $60 at an Indy and hope it's something I can do at home like spark plugs. Or go to the dealer $120 just for codes. If I get codes from Indy I don't have to get codes again from the dealer right? Don't wanna do it twice. Putting 87-89 octane gas wouldn't b this dramatic would it? I say that cuz dad got gas from some1 claiming its 91 for a cheap price $1/L hope that's not y

Rogue-CLK

MIL? Malfunction indicator light right? Lol

Rogue-CLK

Check engine light is gone :/ after I restart so many times. I did just start and go, didn't wait for it to warm up. Ill still check it out tmr morning. Warranty is for motor and tranny etc, motor can mean anything :/

Rudeney

When you have an MIL (yes, Malfunction Indicator Light) illuminated, my first step would be to check the codes with a generic OBDII scanner. Here in the USA (you don't say where you are - please update your forum profile), some auto parts stores, such as Auto Zone, will check for free. Otherwise, you can buy a generic scanner for yourself for about US$50. The problem is, sometimes a single generic OBDII code can actually be multiple MBZ-specific DTCs, so really, it is best to get a scan with SDS. Also, generic scanners can usually only check ECU (engine) codes and not the other dozen-plus systems. But, sometimes the generic OBDII code is enough to go on, or at least a good place to start. Also, the code will likely still be stored even though the MIL is no longer illuminated.

Rogue-CLK

I'll check with a generic OBDII scanner tomorrow, was gonna go today but they closed by the time I woke up :/. Drove the car after 10 mins of warming up seemed fine. But it did hesitate again. Just updated but not much besides that I live in Canada. This problem isn't because of bad or low grade gas right?

Rudeney

It's probably not an octane rating problem, but get the codes, then we'll have better info to make a diagnosis.

DangermouseCLK

One thing to note: when you get the codes read, make a note of them and then clear them. Some of them may be old and not relevant to your current problem. If your CEL/MIL lights again, check the codes again for the most recent ones.

As an aside, I recently bought one of these



which is wifi OBDII reader that works with an iphone app. (There are bluetooth ones also). Still playing with the various apps available, both free and paid-for, but even the basic free one gives active codes, pending codes and real time displays of various values like coolant temp, MAF, engine rpm.

Cost about $22 on Amazon.

Again, not MB specific codes, but a good start.

Rogue-CLK

Update, used a geniscan GS300
Codes are:
P0104 (MAF VAF circuit intermittent)
P0456 (TPS/pedal position sensor switch ckt range/performance)
P0221 (Evap emission control system leak very small)

My last scan from the dealer said something about the pedal sensor. Maybe it needs to b replaced, I notice how when I'm in park and rev once... there's a... "vroom VROOM!" I hear it twice, a small vroom then the bigger normal VROOM.

Rogue-CLK

Update cleaned my MAF and only code that comes up is p0221 "pending" so far so good.

Rogue-CLK

Still stuttering a bit until I restart the car and all is good.

Rogue-CLK

P0104 came back up
P0221 also. Help....

Rudeney

Both of these point to a defective MAF sensor. I think it's time to replace it. Get an OEM or genuine Bosch.

Rogue-CLK

That's what I was afraid of haha would u think this would b covered under warranty (typically)? Can't confirm right now of they do it's a weekend. How often does this happen?

xsever

This is what you need ($115):
and about 15 minutes to replace it if you search for the DIY guide here on the forum.

Very easy to do.

Rogue-CLK

Alright thanks, is that the only part number or variations? Or only 0280217515? I cleaned the MAF but since it was temporary guess ill replace it.

Rogue-CLK

Is this the right part it's local

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ513832356

xsever

I would make sure I buy the OEM part which is made by Bosch. Other replacement MAF sensors are known not to last as long and not to perform as well.

Just make sure it's the Bosch one, which at the kijiji price, I doubt it.

henry47

if it feels like it's stalling, most likely it's going to be the Mass Airflow Sensor. I had the same symptoms. Car starts up fine, idle fluctuates, car stalls. I bought one off parts.com It wasn't that expensive. It took 30 minutes to install since it's a pain in the *** to remove.

Rogue-CLK

I changed the sensor brand new and the code came back up a few days after. Codes p0104 and p0221. Is my MAF sensor defective? U think it's possible to get a refund or exchange?

Rogue-CLK

I waited for it to reach to temp and seems fine. MIL is off. Feels hesitant when I start and go. Guess I gotta let it warm up. But while the MIL was on I had the same symptoms as before I changed the MAF sensor. And in 3 gear the car revs from 3000 to 5000rpm but doesn't go faster like it's slipping. Currently works fine after waiting 4-5 mins to warm up.

Rogue-CLK

I changed it and still the same codes came up, p0104 and p0221 pending

Rogue-CLK

Cleaned the new MAF sensor and all is good for now only codes are the p0221 pending Evap system very small leak. Haven't changed the air filter yet so might the problem :/ cleaned it out but not completely an no clue when it or if it was ever changed :/