CLK-Class (W209) 2003 on: CLK 270 CDI, CLK 200K, CLK 200 CGI, CLK 240, CLK 320, CLK 350, CLK 500, CLK 550 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

General electrical question

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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 05:10 PM
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CLK500 Cabriolet
General electrical question

Last week the remote locks on my 2006 CLK500 stopped working.
Every else about Keyless-GO works fine and I just had to open and lock the car with the handle and not the remote. Anyway, I decided to check the fuse associated with the Keyless-go and sure enough it was blown. So I replace the 7.5 amp fuse and try the remote and it blows the fuse again. I was out of 7.5 amp fuses so I popped in a 20 amp and the remotes worked fine.
That was 6 days ago and all is still well with my remotes.
Is there any danger in using a higher amp fuse?
I can't begin to guess what was causing the 7.5 amp fuse to blow.

Last edited by Tenzo; Aug 30, 2015 at 06:42 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 09:41 PM
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This is fuse #8 on the rear SAM? This also controls the ATA siren. This siren module often fails due to corrosion (it sits behind the front right wheel, under the fender shroud) and also when its backup-battery has expired. I would NOT use a higher amp fuse. Instead, unplug the siren until you can get a replacement.
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 12:41 AM
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CLK500 Cabriolet
Yes, it is the No. 8 fuse and yes the siren did fail, although it was about a year & half ago.
Thanks so much for the help. I'll just unplug the bad siren. Do you happen to know the best way to access the siren module? When it originally failed I researched a DIY repair and there seemed to be an ongoing argument on the forums about the easiest access point.
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 11:24 PM
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You will have to lift the car. Once lifted, you can remove the under body shrouds, and you should be able to fold down the triangular piece of the fender shroud to get enough room to access the siren. If not, you'll need to remove the right wheel and the whole fender shroud.
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