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I was putting my drivers side rear window up and heard a snap, a pop, and felt the pain of my wallet emptying - I knew the regulator had failed.. I called an independent shop that specializes in European cars and I was quoted around $950 for a new part and installation - sounded crazy to me, but I looked up the part and they're going for $550. Cheapest I found was $475+ shipping. The dealer I called did not return my calls, so I feel it's probably a headache they'd rather not undertake.
Question - is this the norm for this repair? Should I shop around for other options? What did everyone else pay for this repair? I looked through the forums and noticed there's a few installation guides that essentially required removing the rear seats, panels, etc.. I live in the center of a large city and would have no where to do such a job, so I'll have to take it to a shop.
Yes, mine went last year and I haven't fixed it. The same window and I heard the pop as well. $550 is a good price for it, or if you can get it second hand.
I have spoke to a few mechanics and they groaned when I mentioned it.
You might have to bite the bullet.
It has to be fixed, the pillarless window look is why I bought the CLK in the first place.
Just curious, what happens to the rear window now, when you open the door?
Does it still move down a little, or not at all?
The window does not move at all - there's a nice little gap between the front and back window, which lets in wind and rain. Feels like it's barely staying up - I'm sure with a bit of effort you could easily yank the window down with your hands, but obviously not trying that..
Just curious, what happens to the rear window now, when you open the door?
Does it still move down a little, or not at all?
Sorry to high jack the thread.
I had the pop 2 years ago and the rear window does not move down a bit anymore when I open the door. If I push the rear window down a bit by hand, the window would come up to close the gap when I close the door.
I did my research and the root cause is probably the regulator. The rear seat and side panel have to be removed to replace the regulator. I left it as is and waited for the regulator to fail completely. Surprising it has been this way for 2 years, no better and no worse.
I was putting my drivers side rear window up and heard a snap, a pop, and felt the pain of my wallet emptying - I knew the regulator had failed.. I called an independent shop that specializes in European cars and I was quoted around $950 for a new part and installation - sounded crazy to me, but I looked up the part and they're going for $550. Cheapest I found was $475+ shipping. The dealer I called did not return my calls, so I feel it's probably a headache they'd rather not undertake.
Question - is this the norm for this repair? Should I shop around for other options? What did everyone else pay for this repair? I looked through the forums and noticed there's a few installation guides that essentially required removing the rear seats, panels, etc.. I live in the center of a large city and would have no where to do such a job, so I'll have to take it to a shop.
Thanks for your help!
The dealer is not going to shy away from that job. They make money off that just like every other job. As home DIY jobs go it's a bit of a pain but not that hard. Probably not something you'd want to do as your first DIY job, but if you are the type to tackle most anything then its' just more time consuming than hard.
I just finished the DIY repair and it cost me $20, most of that was the expedited shipping for the plastic trolley part which is almost certainly your problem as well. There's a seller on eBay that sells (makes?) the part and seems like just as good a plastic as the original, if not better. Here's a link. I bought an extra for when the passenger side breaks (which it will).
The hardest part is removing the panels without breakage. Also, when you re-spool the cable pulley-spindle on the motor, wind outside-in (it's a cam). Just take a picture of the pulley before you pull the motor off the regulator and you'll be fine. Go slow, read the experiences of others 3x and save yourself a thousand dollars or more.
I have a problem with my rear right window as well. the problem with mine is that when i close it, it leaves a gap between the rear window and the front one. If I pull the rear window forward with my hand the gap is gone. I'm thinking of getting a repair kit off ebay and trying to fix it. here is the link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/W209-MERCEDE...NXr7cU&vxp=mtr
If the top is open though the window closes with no gaps. Should I try the repair kit or is something else the issue?
I just finished the DIY repair and it cost me $20, most of that was the expedited shipping for the plastic trolley part which is almost certainly your problem as well. There's a seller on eBay that sells (makes?) the part and seems like just as good a plastic as the original, if not better. Here's a link. I bought an extra for when the passenger side breaks (which it will).
The hardest part is removing the panels without breakage. Also, when you re-spool the cable pulley-spindle on the motor, wind outside-in (it's a cam). Just take a picture of the pulley before you pull the motor off the regulator and you'll be fine. Go slow, read the experiences of others 3x and save yourself a thousand dollars or more.
Cool I bought 2 just in case. I am pretty sure I could 3D print these in ABS as well.
All these posts seem old but here I am. CLK320 2004. I fixed that regulator years ago, but as I got older I forgot some tricks and tips. Yesterday I found my rear window semi-opened. I pressed the windows button to find that something was broken inside. It was getting darker and the time to start raining. I pull the the glass with my hands and it came up nicely. Next day I drove that car for a short ride. During my ride, the window glass fell down. It didn't bother me because I thought could pull it back at the first stop. No way. At this time I was not able to pull it back. It was like something holding it down. I pressed the windows button up and down. The motor was working but I could hear the sound of the cables scrambling down there. Back home, I removed the panels, all screws and bolts in an attempt to reach the regulator and the push the glass to a point where I could access the 3 holes to unscrew the glass. With the glass totally at the bottom, I was only able to remove the glass bottom bolt but not the other two. No way to move it up. I thought to remove the regulator with the glass all together. However, there's a stud, or bolt, that connects the regulator the the side panel of the car. I removed that exterior trim to uncover that screw. There's an hexagonal 13 mm nut in a sort of male torx stud. For more than I tried to unscrew that nut, it spins but it doesn't come out, It is like we should find a way to hold that stud to avoid it to spin while unscrewing that nut. I just can't figure it out. That's the part I totally forgot. Can someone help me with that? Please.
Hi guys, me again. Long night, raining but, this morning I was able to remove the windows glass. I was able to access two of the screws I wasn't able to reach yesterday. I did it from a lateral opening with a 10 mm wrench. Then, I removed the windows regulator. Friday morning, I am now waiting from the parts to fix it ordered from Amazon. The cables were indeed all screwed up and that plastic guide part was broken. The motor is working fine. Hopefully, following previews comments and instructions in this forum, I will be able to assembly it all together and be happy again.
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