irokdastar

Hello Everyone I am about to do a vlave cover gasket and plugs on my clk 500 . Is there any hoses I should replace while I am there ? Thank you

ambit

Might want to do the plugs while you're in there. It makes it a lot easier.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ark-plugs.html
There are some rubber valve cover breather hoses that can become torn/brittle with age.

Rudeney

Yep, I'd be prepared to replace the hoses from the breather covers. And remove the breather covers and clean them well. They use black RTV as a gasket. MBZ sells their "official" sealant made by Loc-Tite, but honestly, using a high-temp, hig quality black RTV is good enough.

irokdastar

Thanks Rodney . Do i put the gssket sealer in the grove where the gasket goes or just on the heads. Also Do you know the part number for the hoses or diagram .

Rudeney

You do NOT use any sealant where the head covers meet the heads - that uses only the pre-formed rubber gasket (and use genuine MBZ gaskets - the aftermarket Victor Reinz gaskets are too thin and will leak). You only use the RTV sealant on the breather covers, that mount to the top of the head covers.

irokdastar

oh ok because in the DIY i saw that he applied rtv to where the valve cover meet the heads .

Rudeney

The newer M272/M273 engines do not use a gasket and are RTV only. The older M112/M113 engines (like your CLK500) use a physical gasket and should NOT have any other sealant applied. However, the aftermarket gaskets commonly available (such as Victor Reinz brand) tend to be far too thin and will leak. Maybe because of this, some mechanics have begun the practice of supplementing it with RTV. If you will get the genuine MBZ gaskets, it will cost you an extra $20 (maybe) and you can put them right on with no RTV and no leaks.

irokdastar

Ok thank you. I ordered the originals . I know you Said there are some hoses to replace do you know which ? Thank you very much ...

Rudeney

On each head cover, there is a "breather cover" that has a rubber hose coming from it (one on the right bank, two on the left). These serve the purpose of the old PCV valves - they vent the crankcase. Those rubber hoses are often hard and brittle after 10 years of driving.

Here are diagrams and parts list that will help identify the hoses you may need to replace:


http://benzbits.com/M113/BreatherHosesPartsDiagram.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M113/BreatherHosesPartsList.pdf

irokdastar

Thank you . I found them as a set on ebay if anyone is interested . I ended up taking my car for an oil change and I spoke to my mechanic and I told him about the delay or stutter I get and I asked him if he can do a flush on the transmission and he basically said he doesn't want to do it . I even went to an Indy who specializes in Benz and he told me leave it . I know you work on these cars a lot what do you suggest ? my car has only 67K miles on it and when I press the gas and there is a delay . Also when I release the gas it kind of hangs in gear and doesn't shift down or up . I never had a benz before so I am not sure if its and issue . I looked online and someone suggested to reset the transmission so it can pick up on my driving but I don't want to play with it . Any suggestion ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Crank...RWVvmg&vxp=mtr

floridawriter

Take your car to an independent shop that specializes in Mercedes. He will know how to flush the transmission. It is fairly easy to do yourself.

Rudeney

There is a school of thought that if your transmission has high miles and the fluid has never been changed, then doing so can cause problems. The argument is that the parts have "gotten used to" the thicker, dirtier fluid and that fresh fluid will dislodge some embedded "dirt" and cause problems. Honestly, in my opinion, I think this is incorrect. I've been doing some work on the 722.9 in my CLK (replacing the fluid pump, a broken K1 drum bearing, and the torque converter). The thing is just a bunch of gears and clutches, all being constantly bathed in fluid. There is a valve body that uses hydraulic pressure and valves to activate the clutches, but that's it. There's no magic in the box.

Given your low mileage, I'd not hesitate to do a fluid and filter change. You don't say what year your car is - if it's a MY2005 or MY2006, then you have the 722.9 7-speed and it definitely needs a fluid and filter change - the maintenance manual calls for it at 40K miles. If you have a pre-MY2005, then you have the 722.6 5-speed, which was sold as "sealed for life" but in reality, needs regular fluid/filter changes, too. I'd say every 70K miles. The 722.5 does not have a torque converter drain, so a pan drop will change less than half the fluid. I think that's fine. If you really think you want better, then there is a procedure for a full flush, but I'd the pan drop and filter change and refill first, then the flush.

irokdastar

I have a 2004 with the 5 speed. I saw a couple of videos where basicly drop the pan and change the filter and ad fluids. Then you remove the hose going from the transmission going to the cooler and turn the engine until transmission fluid comes out then shut it off measure and add more fluid. Keeps going till you get all 16 qts are done . Do you think this will find the issue I am having of it staying in a gear for too long weather up or down shifting ?

Rudeney

The fluid and filter change and flush are certainly options worth trying. Here are the official WIS docs for that:

http://benzbits.com/722_6/FluidFilterChange.pdf
http://benzbits.com/722_6/TransmissionFlush.pdf

Another thing to try is the accelerator pedal/throttle re-sync (some people erroneously call this the "TCU" or "ECU reset):

1. Make sure everything in the car is turned off and closed.
2. Turn the key to position 2 so all the dash lights are illuminated.
3. Press the accelerator fully to the floor, depressing the "kick-down" button.
4. Hold he pedal for 5 seconds and continue to hold it down.
5. Turn the ignition switch back one click to position 1.
6. Release the accelerator pedal, but leave the key in position 1.
7. Sit quietly and wait for about two minutes - do NOT open or turn anything on.
8. Listen for a "click" or "ping" noise form the dash.
9. Start the engine and drive the car for at least five minutes.

irokdastar

Thank you I will try that .

dalecan

I just did a tranny flush on mine. I shopped around at my local indies but the Mercedes dealer was cheaper, by about $100. It cost just over $350. I couldn't believe that they were cheaper than all the indies I tried. It was great service too, better than my BMW dealer.

Rudeney

Did the dealer actually do a flush, or did they just drop the pan, swap the filter, and pour in 4 quarts of fluid?

irokdastar

I called my dealer and he said we can do a flush and when I asked him what are they exactly doing he said dropping the pan and changing the fluids and filter . they charge 22 per bottle of trans fluid no way there going to flush and change the fluids for 350

Rudeney

That's what I figured. Find yourself a good indy - one that will let you bring your own parts and Oil (if they won't get them for you at a good price).

dalecan

Great question. I asked for a transmission flush and this is what the invoice states:

Perform transmission service per manufacturer's standards (every 39k). Parts used: elaster mold 420.16, mobil ATF 134 $37.40, seal ring $3.52, oil filter $ 15.75, lock pin $3.52, pilot bushing $19.88, labor $220.

Rudeney

$37.40 worth of ATF-134 is not enough for a flush. That's just a 4-quart refill after dropping the pan. A flush takes 9 quarts in addition to the 4-quarts for a refill.

furukawa63

Thank you for the beautiful write up .
My car is having the breather hose replaced but a incredible thing has happened .
My dealership told me that they have to replace my intake manifold because they say that the breather hose is connected to the intake manifold ???
To make my story short they gave me an estimate of $8000 .
The breather hose its self was estimated at $1400 .
I will be confine a independent shop so I will have a better chance with through estimates.

insame1

I have no idea on an e63 but this sound suspect to me.

irokdastar

check this out . The e 63 hose simply bolts on to the manifold . Unless they messed up or stripped the thread on the screw you don't need a manifold.




http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211...cuum-hose.html