Preserving the Headlights
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 182
Likes: 34
From: Georgia
2011 E550 Cab
Preserving the Headlights
Weather tech makes a headlight film kit.
I see so many older MB's with yellow fogged out headlights and want to keep the lights on my '09 looking new. Is there a better way other than film?
I see so many older MB's with yellow fogged out headlights and want to keep the lights on my '09 looking new. Is there a better way other than film?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 10
2004 CLK320
I tried a few products but finally found one which would last a few months. The product is Meguiars Perfect Clarity Two Step Headlight Restoration Kit. I saw it in Wlamart for $18US.
Easy to apply, the time-consuming step is to mask the hood and bumper for the spray. I applied it last November and the headlights looked great. Now they are still not bad but I will apply again soon (OCD!)......
I tried Meguiars Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration Kit and it was a pain to apply and it lasted maybe 3 weeks.
As for UV protection, I think all these products have some sort of UV protection but not sure which ones would last a few months.
If I buy a new car, I will consider products like Opti-Coat.....
Easy to apply, the time-consuming step is to mask the hood and bumper for the spray. I applied it last November and the headlights looked great. Now they are still not bad but I will apply again soon (OCD!)......
I tried Meguiars Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration Kit and it was a pain to apply and it lasted maybe 3 weeks.
As for UV protection, I think all these products have some sort of UV protection but not sure which ones would last a few months.
If I buy a new car, I will consider products like Opti-Coat.....
Last edited by mis3; Jun 10, 2016 at 03:55 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 67
Likes: 11
2004 CLK 270 CDI Avantgarde
This kit is excellent.
Ive used it myself. :0)
https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Head...estoration+kit
And like Ben says, a good UV protector spray will keep them looking good. :0)
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 313
CLK55 W209, CL63 W216
Here are the steps to follow:
1 - Buy car
2 - Apply clear film/protective film to headlights
3 - Never worry about it again.
To restore them you need some sandpaper, polishing compounds and a buffer preferably. Plenty of tutorials around and works great. However, you have to do it regularly as plastic will fade over time. Simply purchase the film once they're restored and never worry about it again.
1 - Buy car
2 - Apply clear film/protective film to headlights
3 - Never worry about it again.
To restore them you need some sandpaper, polishing compounds and a buffer preferably. Plenty of tutorials around and works great. However, you have to do it regularly as plastic will fade over time. Simply purchase the film once they're restored and never worry about it again.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,247
Likes: 31
From: Oakland
2018 E43 | 2017 GLS450 | 2004 CLK 500
I've been thinking about his for years and film is really the only way to protect them from when brand new.
The problem with polish is that once you do that, you've removed any factory UV protection (my understanding). And you have to keep polishing or polish/uv protect - probably monthly to avoid yellowing.
And then of course if your lenses are already yellow/cloudy it's too late. You'll keep polishing/protecting forever - or apply film with UV/protection
The problem with polish is that once you do that, you've removed any factory UV protection (my understanding). And you have to keep polishing or polish/uv protect - probably monthly to avoid yellowing.
And then of course if your lenses are already yellow/cloudy it's too late. You'll keep polishing/protecting forever - or apply film with UV/protection
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,109
Likes: 112
2008 CLK550 Cab
Mine have not yellowed, but the factory clear has millions of little cracks in it if you look under magnification, which makes them look slightly foggy. So I have been doing a bit of research lately. There are no shortage of kits, but most range from temporary to very temporary. If your lenses are still perfect, then film would be fine. Otherwise sanding off the factory clear is the way to go. But you must apply a permanent top coat.
The best cheap option is the kit by Sylvania. It gets good reviews. About $20.00. The only thing I would do differently is it comes with 400, 1,000 and 2,000 sandpaper. Going from 400 to 1,000 is way too big a jump. I would add 600 and 800 in between. You apply the top coat to the 2000 grit sanded lenses, so they are smooth, but still milky. The top coat makes it crystal clear. You can watch a YouTube video.
The option I will use is more labor intensive. The top coat will be Optimum Opti-Lens. On sale, a tube is about $60.00 and you wipe it on. But you do not apply it to partially sanded lenses. They must be both sanded and polished to perfection. But I have more sandpaper in varying grits than I know what to do with, so I'll sand to 3,000 or so and then polishing will be easy.
The third option that works long-term is sanding and then spraying with a UV clear coat that should be cured with a UV light. Higher initial cost, the sprays are not super-easy to find, and you have to mask off a lot more and risk runs. etc.
The best cheap option is the kit by Sylvania. It gets good reviews. About $20.00. The only thing I would do differently is it comes with 400, 1,000 and 2,000 sandpaper. Going from 400 to 1,000 is way too big a jump. I would add 600 and 800 in between. You apply the top coat to the 2000 grit sanded lenses, so they are smooth, but still milky. The top coat makes it crystal clear. You can watch a YouTube video.
The option I will use is more labor intensive. The top coat will be Optimum Opti-Lens. On sale, a tube is about $60.00 and you wipe it on. But you do not apply it to partially sanded lenses. They must be both sanded and polished to perfection. But I have more sandpaper in varying grits than I know what to do with, so I'll sand to 3,000 or so and then polishing will be easy.
The third option that works long-term is sanding and then spraying with a UV clear coat that should be cured with a UV light. Higher initial cost, the sprays are not super-easy to find, and you have to mask off a lot more and risk runs. etc.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 182
Likes: 34
From: Georgia
2011 E550 Cab
Here are the steps to follow:
1 - Buy car
2 - Apply clear film/protective film to headlights
3 - Never worry about it again.
To restore them you need some sandpaper, polishing compounds and a buffer preferably. Plenty of tutorials around and works great. However, you have to do it regularly as plastic will fade over time. Simply purchase the film once they're restored and never worry about it again.
1 - Buy car
2 - Apply clear film/protective film to headlights
3 - Never worry about it again.
To restore them you need some sandpaper, polishing compounds and a buffer preferably. Plenty of tutorials around and works great. However, you have to do it regularly as plastic will fade over time. Simply purchase the film once they're restored and never worry about it again.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 313
CLK55 W209, CL63 W216
Mine have not yellowed, but the factory clear has millions of little cracks in it if you look under magnification, which makes them look slightly foggy. So I have been doing a bit of research lately. There are no shortage of kits, but most range from temporary to very temporary. If your lenses are still perfect, then film would be fine. Otherwise sanding off the factory clear is the way to go. But you must apply a permanent top coat.
The best cheap option is the kit by Sylvania. It gets good reviews. About $20.00. The only thing I would do differently is it comes with 400, 1,000 and 2,000 sandpaper. Going from 400 to 1,000 is way too big a jump. I would add 600 and 800 in between. You apply the top coat to the 2000 grit sanded lenses, so they are smooth, but still milky. The top coat makes it crystal clear. You can watch a YouTube video.
The option I will use is more labor intensive. The top coat will be Optimum Opti-Lens. On sale, a tube is about $60.00 and you wipe it on. But you do not apply it to partially sanded lenses. They must be both sanded and polished to perfection. But I have more sandpaper in varying grits than I know what to do with, so I'll sand to 3,000 or so and then polishing will be easy.
The third option that works long-term is sanding and then spraying with a UV clear coat that should be cured with a UV light. Higher initial cost, the sprays are not super-easy to find, and you have to mask off a lot more and risk runs. etc.
The best cheap option is the kit by Sylvania. It gets good reviews. About $20.00. The only thing I would do differently is it comes with 400, 1,000 and 2,000 sandpaper. Going from 400 to 1,000 is way too big a jump. I would add 600 and 800 in between. You apply the top coat to the 2000 grit sanded lenses, so they are smooth, but still milky. The top coat makes it crystal clear. You can watch a YouTube video.
The option I will use is more labor intensive. The top coat will be Optimum Opti-Lens. On sale, a tube is about $60.00 and you wipe it on. But you do not apply it to partially sanded lenses. They must be both sanded and polished to perfection. But I have more sandpaper in varying grits than I know what to do with, so I'll sand to 3,000 or so and then polishing will be easy.
The third option that works long-term is sanding and then spraying with a UV clear coat that should be cured with a UV light. Higher initial cost, the sprays are not super-easy to find, and you have to mask off a lot more and risk runs. etc.
Opti Lens works quite well. I have about a year on some restored headlights with it applied and they still look brand new. Skip the kits and just get the right sand papers and a good polishing compound for the final stage. You usually end up needing a lot more materials than the kits allow for and they're super overpriced.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 313
CLK55 W209, CL63 W216
Good glad it helped. I make it a point to apply the film asap after I buy a car. It's simply not worth the aggravation if it can be easily prevented.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 10
2004 CLK320
When I bought my car 12 years ago, I am not sure if these products (opti lens) existed. I had no idea that would keep this car for so long!
I found the Meguiars 2-Step easy to apply, it took maybe 10 minutes per headlight. It is a pain to mask the car only because of the shape of our headlights. If I have to repeat every 7-8 months, I am OK with it.
I found the Meguiars 2-Step easy to apply, it took maybe 10 minutes per headlight. It is a pain to mask the car only because of the shape of our headlights. If I have to repeat every 7-8 months, I am OK with it.
Last edited by mis3; Jun 10, 2016 at 10:48 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 684
Likes: 14
From: Lebanon
2007 BMW 550i
I did them at this guy who used multiple intensity sand paper with a lot of water started with a 800 grit and ended with 1500 grit. then wiped it dry and applied a coat of plastic gloss. I did them 3 years ago and only recently sold the car and they were still like new.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 46
Likes: 7
From: Abbeville, AL
CLK 500, yr 2005
DITTO.++ I used an XPEL headlamp and fog lamp kit on my Crossfire two years ago. The only thing necessary to keep the headlights looking showroom new is wiping the splattered bugs off. I also used the XPEL kit on my CLK when I bought it. It is the best way to go. I hope the Weathertech works as well for you.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 684
Likes: 14
From: Lebanon
2007 BMW 550i
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 182
Likes: 34
From: Georgia
2011 E550 Cab
I installed the WeatherTech clear lens kit for the headlights and fog lights on the 4th. It was pretty straight forward and the help of a heat gun (or hair dryer) is the key. Can't even tell they are on there and now the headlights will be preserved to a long time. $60 well spent.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 515
Likes: 11
From: Houston, TX
W209 CLK Renntech Widebody, C140 CL600 V12, AP2 S2000, NSX Twin Turbo, R8 V10
Anyone have links to the expel and weather tech kits? Going to replace my lights and start fresh. In the past I have seen films cause cracking and micro fissures in plastic headlights if it has a different coefficient of thermal expansion than the lenses- anyone experience that?
