2004 clk 500 bad instrument cluster
07-19-2016 | 08:57 PM
#1
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2004 clk 500
2004 clk 500 bad instrument cluster
My instrument cluster failed (new one $1300) and I replaced with a used one. Can a dealer "sync" the unit to the ECU to correct the odometer showing "000" ?....Everything works now so I can drive the car...just wont be able to trade on a newer 4 door MB till I can get milage correction . Thanks
07-20-2016 | 10:06 PM
#5
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Joined: Dec 2009
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NO LONGER ACTIVE
First of all, you need to understand what's going on here. Your car's odometer mileage is stored in two places - the cluster and the EIS (ignition switch). If the mileage stored in these two devices does not match, then the cluster's odometer will display "------". Both devices will continue to advance miles as you drive, but you since they will never match, the cluster will continue to show dashes.
SDS (dealer's Star Diagnosis System) cannot re-program mileage in either of these devices. All it can do it code one of the two devices to match the other's mileage. This is done as part of the initial startup routine when replacing one of the two. SDS will only allow this initial startup procedure on a new "virgin" device. The way it tells if either the cluster or EIS is new is if the mileage is zero (actually, I think anything under 100 miles works, but let's just say zero for practical purposes).
So, when you install a used cluster, everything works but the odometer. There are two ways to fix this, although I do NOT recommend either of them as a DIY. One fix is to remove the EEPROM chips form the old cluster and install them on the replacement cluster. These are tiny SOIC surface-mount chips that require a steady hand and small iron to work with. Another alternative is to zero the mielage on the replacement cluster, which makes it appear to SDS as a "virgin" unit and then it can be re-coded as if it were new.
I have successfully zeroed the miles on my C240 cluster using a tool called Carprog ($100 on eBay). I had to de-solder the chip, attach it to the Carprog interface ( a "chip clip") and then wipe out its mileage. I actually did some experiments on this and destroyed a few chips and clusters before getting it right. I even ended up buying a dozen spare EEPORM chips to work with. This is why I say it's not a DIY.
There are some other tools that can do this without soldering chips, but they tend to be expensive. Your best bet there is to find a shop that has such a tool. Expect ot pay about $300 for that work, plus more for the SDS coding once the "virgin" cluster is in your car.
SDS (dealer's Star Diagnosis System) cannot re-program mileage in either of these devices. All it can do it code one of the two devices to match the other's mileage. This is done as part of the initial startup routine when replacing one of the two. SDS will only allow this initial startup procedure on a new "virgin" device. The way it tells if either the cluster or EIS is new is if the mileage is zero (actually, I think anything under 100 miles works, but let's just say zero for practical purposes).
So, when you install a used cluster, everything works but the odometer. There are two ways to fix this, although I do NOT recommend either of them as a DIY. One fix is to remove the EEPROM chips form the old cluster and install them on the replacement cluster. These are tiny SOIC surface-mount chips that require a steady hand and small iron to work with. Another alternative is to zero the mielage on the replacement cluster, which makes it appear to SDS as a "virgin" unit and then it can be re-coded as if it were new.
I have successfully zeroed the miles on my C240 cluster using a tool called Carprog ($100 on eBay). I had to de-solder the chip, attach it to the Carprog interface ( a "chip clip") and then wipe out its mileage. I actually did some experiments on this and destroyed a few chips and clusters before getting it right. I even ended up buying a dozen spare EEPORM chips to work with. This is why I say it's not a DIY.
There are some other tools that can do this without soldering chips, but they tend to be expensive. Your best bet there is to find a shop that has such a tool. Expect ot pay about $300 for that work, plus more for the SDS coding once the "virgin" cluster is in your car.
