CLK-Class (W209) 2003 on: CLK 270 CDI, CLK 200K, CLK 200 CGI, CLK 240, CLK 320, CLK 350, CLK 500, CLK 550 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Buyers advice

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Old 11-05-2016, 09:51 AM
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C55 R1200R ML500 R320BT
Buyers advice

Hi guys
I'm looking at an 05 Cabriolet CLK320 with 90k on it!
Any warnings ?
Thanks
Old 11-05-2016, 11:04 AM
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Assuming this is a true MY2005 and not a "plate year" 2005 that's actually a MY2004 or MY2006, then that should have the M112 3.2l V6 engine and 722.6 5-speed transmission, which is about as good as it gets in terms of reliability (with proper maintenance, of course). The chassis and electric system will be pretty much the same as your C55.

My major concern would be with the soft top. The hydraulic cylinders and pump may need replacement. Given your current garage residents, I suspect you are well-versed in MBZ DIY, so the hydraulics aren't a big deal, though the parts can be a bit costly. There are rebuild kits and rebuild shops that will save over new parts.

Also, the canvas may be in need of repair or replacement due to the seam above the rear glass separating. This is probably not a DIY (although I did it). Over here, a new high-quality aftermarket canvas costs about $1K, and shops charge $2K++ for the labor. And that charge is way too high for an expert shop as I did mine in about 20 hours), and could do it again in about 12.

Oh, one more thing - the rear side window regulators tend to fail, but they can be replaced/repaired.

Last edited by Rudeney; 11-05-2016 at 05:53 PM. Reason: Typos
Old 11-05-2016, 02:17 PM
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05 CLK320 Cabriolet W209 & 2011 BMW X3
I bought my 05 CLK320 used almost 3 years ago with 98k miles and it works like new. I have done a lot of preventive maintenance. I replaced the oxygen sensors, alarm horn, thermostat, serpentine belt, valve cover gaskets and spark plugs changed while the covers were off. Easier to reach. Routine Transmission fluid flush and filter changed by the dealer. Routine oil changes twice a year. The only thing that caught me by surprise was the conductor plate inside the transmission (722.6) apparantly this transmission is prone to the conductor plate failing at around 100k miles. Mine was 102k. It cost me $800 to have it changed the dealer wanted $1600. Next I will do the rear shocks and probably the front struts and control arms also will change the 2 struts that keep the partition outward in the trunk when you want to put the top down. I currently have the switch taped. My canvas top looks brand new. I also recommend an icarsoft i980 code reader I keep mine in my trunk. Awesome piece of equipment. Sells for about $100 on Ebay. If your check engine light ever comes on this code reader will tell you exactly whats wrong down to the part number. It will even let you reset codes. I used mine twice already and it sure beats the price of having your car diagnosed by the shop or dealer which will usually cost you over $100 each time. This device will tell you exactly whats wrong so no one can pull the wool over your eyes.

Last edited by Timewarpone; 11-05-2016 at 02:24 PM.

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