JackRobinson

I took my car to the local Mercedes dealer for a scheduled A service with only 46622 miles on it. I was told by the service rep. I need several expensive repairs already on such a low mileage car, I couldn't believe it. Still don't.
It was reported I need; an oil separator price $350. I don't have any of the common symptoms of a bad or failing oil separator. No smoke coming from the exhaust, no excessive oil consumption, and no sludge build-up on oil filler cap. So I don't know why I would need a new one. Also they say I need Torque Arm Bushings, that mine are torn. Price $788.83. I don't have any clunking noises or notice any problems with steering. Also rear brake pads, $310. And front brake pads and rotors $782.90. How can I need new rotors when I've never let the pads wear down to the point where I should have damaged the rotors and besides can't they be turned or re-surfaced?
I can't believe I need over $2200 dollars of repair on a car with less then 50000 miles on it. I thought Mercedes were built to last. I can understand I might need new brake pads but the rest of these repairs are just too much. Is my car already to the point I'm going to have to start pouring money into it?
I had a 2003 CLK 430 Designo Edition before this car and at around 60,000 miles I had to replace the transmission over $7000 @ the dealers because the coolant seals running thru the radiator had failed and antifreeze and coolant contaminated the transmission fluid and ate up the clutch thingys; I forgot what they were called. I know these car are expensive to maintain but geez; they should last longer then a few years before having to spend thousands of dollars on them. My 2001 Ford Explorer with 91,000 miles has never given me any trouble and I haven't put a dime in it for any repairs, just the regular maintenance. Crazy... and frustrating. Just Saying and venting.
Needless to say I won't be going to the dealer for these repairs. In fact my plan is to get another opinion at a indy shop and then purchase my parts on line if needed.

Fatz

Getting a 2nd assessment is a good idea.... However, I replaced an air/oil separator at about 100K. There was no smoke but there was oil pooling onto the intake manifold.

Have the rotors ever been changed? If not, they may need changing after 46K miles. They wear every time you brake, whether the pads are good or not. You can check the edge of the rotor yourself and tell if they need replacement. If they are as in need of replacement as mine are right now you will be able to readily feel a steep drop off from the outer edge and the face of the rotor. I'm just trying to wear mine through the winter since I drive it much less. Will replace rotors and pads in the spring.

Yidney

A nearly 10 year old luxury car can get expensive if you cannot do things yourself. I gather you cannot. First, don't go to the dealer for service. Way too expensive, and they just want to sell you more stuff. Find an indy. Second, don't pay for those stupid A and B services. You just paid some ungodly sum for an oil change and for a guy to stare at your car for a few minutes and make a list of more money you can give them.

Your front rotors may or may not be overly worn at 46k. But I doubt they really need immediate replacement. I have about 44k on mine right now and they don't need it yet. As Fatz said, rotors wear every to make you stop. You don't need to have worn out pads.

I would have somebody else look at your car.

Rudeney

The dealer will be the most expensive place to go for service, and they will also want to do work that may not be 100% necessary. I am onto saying that they will lie and claim a part is bad when it isn't, but they may say you need a new bushing, rotor, etc. when it's still got, say 60% of it's life left. They "assume" you want your car operating at 100%, when in reality, 80% may be just fine.

As others have mentioned rotors do wear. On most all cars, it is not uncommon to have to replace rotors with the first set of pads. The torque strut bushing is a common maintenance item. It is fluid filled, and articulates in two dimensions, so it is prone to early wear. If it is worn out and/or leaking, I;d replace it, but please find a good indy shop instead of the dealer.

mashe

True story about the stealer.

My friend's W211 e320 went in for a dealer service and was told it needs motor mounts replaced ($$$).
He asked me to checked it. Put the brakes on, rev the engine in drive and reverse, the engine stays put, hardly moved.

Rudeney

Not to defend the dealer, but the engine mounts are fluid filled. If they have leaked, the engine may remain steady, but will transmit a lot more vibration to the chassis. MBZ engine mounts last about 60K miles or so. But if the engine isn't rocking, and the vibration is not noticeable, then it ain't broke so don't fix it!

Glyn M Ruck

Wise advice above. I would replace the torque strut bushings. The new ones will last a lot longer. They are cheap & easy for an indy to do. I doubt you need rotors. Just service it & do the bushes & enjoy.