Hello Dear Friends. Greetings from Bodrum, Turkey.


I have been reading so many on the forum recently to find out a solution for my 10 year old 200 kompressor. Nearly getting to 100k miles, seems like I have to save some money to take car of my car since cant buy a E250 coupe

Anyways, here are the issues that I have that you guys can lead me to somewhere since the indies here are really below Turkey average.

My first issue is about the transmission shifting. I have done 2 services with original filter and oil (unfortunately oil was 236.10). Nothing has been changed rather than filter and oil.Through shifting, especially from 2-3, it feels like there is a spring tension and releasing it and also, it kinda hesitates just before the shifting(can it be solenoid valve maybe?) No noise at all, car produces enough torque if this will give an idea but this is getting worse somehow, I feel this through other upshiftings. It feels weird and rough, I have concerns that something is going get worst in time so better to take care before it get worst and it doesn't feel like a nice ride, I feel anxious about it.

Another issue is the struts as 2 mechanics told me that soon it would both need change. Quiet acceptable at this mileage with terrible roads. What makes me thinking if they are really pointing at right direction. Car seems to drive ok. Nothing obvious while driving. I bounce the car and seems strong. I only hear clunks from the front while I first take of the car from the parking lot maneuvering left or right. Can it be struts? I changed all the arms and stuff except for z-rot 2 years ago. Any advice? Replacing the rear struts as well too maybe? I would be grateful to hear from you guys.

Typical brake pad and rotor question: Original or like Brembo? Cant find different like you find there guys, any experience with Brembo would be highly appreciated.

Last question is more general one. At this mileage, what would be the near term expensive maintenance waiting for me? I changed the oxygen sensor last month, glad that not expensive but made me think about other stuff like MAF(nearly $500 here) or eccentric chain? Please advice me about anything that might be helpful. Like brake fluid and hoses are in my mind.

Hope you guys indulge the silly questions of mine that you always face here.

Thanks!

 

As for brakes, I would look more at price at this point. I would not pay a bunch extra just to get Brembo. But they are fine if they are not the most expensive option. Look at your options,and unless the cheapest is Chinese junk, I'd do that. As for struts, there are really two things to consider. First is the strut acting as a shock absorber over bumps. That is largely a function of the oil inside the strut. If you look at them and they seem dry and not leaking oil, they may be fine despite their age. The second issue is turning. The struts have to turn as your wheels turn. They do that by a strut mount, which a separate piece at the top of the strut. It basically looks like a giant chunk of rubber, but it rotates on itself internally. Those can go bad and cause noises while turning even if the strut itself is fine. At your miles, most people would tell you to replace the struts if you are replacing the mounts, since you need to remove the struts anyway, but you do have the option to replace just the mounts.

 

Regarding the transmission, it's best to have the car scanned using STAR/DAS to check if there are any pending codes. Does your car have the 5-speed or the 7-speed transmission? Let me know so I tell you what are the common problems with the concerned transmission.

As for the struts, it's really hard to tell without lifting the car and moving the suspension to determine what needs to be changed. I did replace all 4 on mine though at around the 100k miles mark.

Go with original brakes. Although they do emit dust, but they have the best stopping power as proven on this forum by many members. It's the best bang for your buck and they last the longest.

Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years and vacuum hoses do get brittle with time and definitely should be inspected and replaced if needed. The rest is really up to the car's maintenance history and how well it was taken care of.

Oh and hello from Lebanon!

 

 

Based on the symptoms you described and the fact that you have the 5-speed transmission, the following are the possible causes from the cheapest to the most expensive:

1)Pilot bushing connector which leaks transmission fluid up the wires to the transmission control system and this can cause hesitated shifts and for the transmission to get "confused" sometimes. Do some research on it. It's a cheap fix.
2)Some of the solenoids inside the transmission, which are installed in the conductor plate, might need replacement. My dad's E240 had the same problems you described and it turned out 2 of the solenoids needed replacement.
3)The conductor plate might need replacement. These go bad on the 5-speed transmission. However, it will throw speed sensor errors as an indication. Again, you would need a professional scanner that read the Mercedes DTCs to pinpoint this.

If oil was leaking out of the struts, then it's definitely time to change them. You don't have to go with the SACHS shocks which are the OEM brand. Bilstein makes an OEM equivalent which is much cheaper and very good. That's what I used when I replaced mine.

As for the brake pads, then it's up to you. I've stuck with original pads and rotors and have been very happy with performance and longevity.

Let us know how all the above goes and hopefully it doesn't get too expensive.

 

Thanks a lot for the information xsever.
I will first get the car diagnosed with a star to see if there are any codes. In previous years I have taken the car to MB services and never had a code but it will would be better to pinpoint any code before taking action. Indies here are really so plain and they dont want to get into automatic transmissions at all. I will go to Izmir where I can find a better tech to make the replacements necessary.
During my searches I found this which made the think that would be a good idea as well if any solenoids need replacement: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sonnax-6894...-/350713828739
I will go for the pilot bushing change anyway since it is really cheap. Watched some videos about solenoid testing and changing. I would go for it if I have a garage with lift since I have torque wrenches(Am I to be brave to do it I dont know) It doesn't seem so complicated if you work sensitive without losing any parts though. Wish I can get the whole tranny flushed and get 236.14 as well. Last indie insisted that 236.10 was better. Couldn't find 236.14 and we went for it. What I remember was the filter was looking quite good but the oil was black. Was it a sign for any incoming issue?
I will go for the original rotors again... But I will take a look at Bilstein since not only you but many people here go for it. Not sure if I can find in Turkey... Otherwise I will go for the SACHS for a replacement. Seems like all these gonna cost around a grand.
Thanks again xsever and Yidney.

 

Hello again guys.

Found a nice indie and checked the codes via SD but there were no codes related to tranny. He checked the oil level which was a little low, added 236.11(dont know if it was a good idea) Still having jerky stuff from transmission. It hits like a rock when it shifts 2 to 1 while going up on a ramp. Bumpy shifts as usual. There was always something weird about the tranny from the first day I bought car when it was around 20K miles. Car was serviced in MB services. Since then I have a feeling that these CLK doesnt seem to be built for lasting long since this is not the only issue. I drove Mazda 6 before this one and never had any issues at all. Might not be a good comparison but this is how I feel.

Indie told to change the conductor plate if this issues continues. This is really confusing. I am sick and tired of it.

Btw I bought SACHS struts and mounts, Hella discs and Textar pads. Cant find anything if this country, No Brembo, no KYB, no different brands to go on with,

 

My dad's E240 was suffering from jerkier shifts and the problem was solved by changing some solenoids and rubber seals inside the transmission that are connected in the conductor plate that did not require changing.

Maybe you can start with that by going to a transmission specialist and seeing what his diagnostic would be.

Did you remove the carpet on the passenger side and inspect the TCU under the carpet to make sure it does not have transmission fluid coming from the old-design pilot bushing connector?

 

It is really hard to find a good one here xsever. This indie seems to be better than any that I have seen recently around this area. I have to drive really alot to get the car fixed which is impossible because I am working very intense.
I will check the pilot bushing and and the TCU this weekend to see if there are any signs. I will visit the same mechanic to have the struts and discs changed soon. I am also thinking about a full flash for the transmission oil with 236.14. What would you advice? 236.10 or 236.14?

 

Both are backward compatible and acceptable with the 722.6 transmission. Go with whichever one is cheaper. In case you're not aware, the fluid change interval for this transmission is 60k miles but I've been changing it every 60k km.

 

 

I don't know off the top of my head regarding the brakes, but the differential fluid is a bit less or a bit over 1L.