HELP, is this repair necessary?
I bought a 2009 CLK550 (36000 miles) a few weeks ago, my third CLK. The washer pump was not working and I wanted to know if the dealer I bought the car from actually changed the oil and filters as he said they did since the Service A message was not cleared from the system.
Also, I had bought an OEM Navigation 2015 update for my system and it was the first time I was using it on my drive to the dealer. The unit restarted twice on its own because it was “unable to read the navigation DVD”. So I go to dealer and bam, get hit with a $4300 repair quote:
1. Washer pump replacement.
2. Electrical fault in the navigation headunit and need to replace it entirely (I had no issue with it till now)
3. Engine oil and filters look good but are overdue for service (why? Just because there is a service message??)
4. Engine oil leak, need to replace camshaft cap (I did not see any leak on my garage floor).
5. Carbon build up due to vehicle not being used too much, need to clean the carbon buildup (is this true?)
There are more, please see attached printout from them. Am I getting taken for a ride here or what?
please advice.
3. If oil looks good when you pull the dipstick then its fine . If you drive normally and put miles on it . I would do it every 3000 to 5000 miles on mobil 1. If you dont drive it that much . I change mine twice a year . I barely drive 2k miles but after 6 month the oil goes bad . Again use mobile 1 . What i do is i got to walmart get the 0w20 mobil-1 5 qt oil jugs . There 25 each . You car will take about 7.5 Quarts . Save the rest so the next time you only need to buy 1 jug instead of . Get a quality filter and take it to any shop they would do the service for $20 . There is no magic that need to be done to these cars . Its a simple plug on the bottom and filter is uptop.
4.Even if you do have an oil leak thats is a crazy price to change a $5 part . look at the car if it really is leaking just find an indy shop they will charge almost half.
5. To get rid of carbon build up is easy . Get in your car and warm it up . then drive it for a few minutes once everything is up to temperature go on the high and just punch it . of course don't speed . like when your about to go on the on ramp just punch it and get the rpms up . That will get rid of the carbon build up . Do it every now and then if you dont drive it much .




2. Most likely the disc. Many eBayers sell counterfeit ones (especially the last updated version since they know people want those).
3. If the oil looks clean then very likely they did not reset the computer.
4. Definitely go to an indy for those. Very common issue. This thread should help a bit: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ver-issue.html
5. Run a bottle of techron with each fill up (when the fuel tank gets to a 1/4 tank or less and fill up all the way). I use the 20oz bottles. 2 or 3 treatments should clean most of it out. The oil should be changed after this is done so I'd just do it a couple of thousand miles before the oil change.
I notice they mention treatment for the cabin air. What I do is run the heater on full fan on the highest temperature for about 30 minutes. When I get odors in the vents I just do that and it kills it off.
Last edited by gaazmon; Mar 7, 2018 at 09:44 PM.
But with all your help, I can overcome these glorified Toyota/Ford’esq dealers in MB disguise. The CLK (especially 550 series) is a God’s blessing to mankind and I believe it was made for everyone, including a nerd like me, to enjoy.

So, the washer pump is about the only thing I should get work done on with them, right?
Also, could anybody suggest me a good headunit that can do Apple carplay and these plugs?
What about the battery? They say it’s past it’s 5 year recommended use. Is there a special battery on 550 (similar to AMG) compared with the 350?
Thank you again for all your help.
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Thank you for the reply. I will have to find a DYI on that. I was looking up parts on MB parts store and pump is like $30 and homey is $3, I wonder how come the dealer was charging 10 times that amount!?
I will have to replace the battery because if any future electrical components go bad, CNA, my extended warranty company, might reject any claim due to battery exceeding its recommended replacement cycle. And I will have to do it at the dealer because I may have problems with the radio codes or any other codes that might get cleared/reset due to battery replacement.
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Thank you once again, I’ll keep you posted. If you have any suggestions or precautions before I replace any components, please let me know.




AND I would be upset with any of the things mentioned thus far looping on my radio...... most of them would annoy w/o looping.... but I like you guys anyway...
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8-agm/10210828
They are running a 25% off coupon special right now for online orders (pickup in store). The only think about having them swap the battery is that some stores won't do it on a MBZ. Apparently, they are afraid of damaging the electronics and then being liable. I know on some cars (BMW) the electrical system also needs to be reset to properly charge a new battery. MBZs don't need this, but auto parts stores often don;t understand that. But, as Yidney explained, DIY is fairly easy. My only advice is to be very diligent in removing and replacing the negative terminal. Don't be afraid - you might get a brief spark, but it won't hurt you. Just pull it off and put it on in one move. "Stuttering" the connection can cause showers of sparks and surges that could damage electrical parts. ANd of course always disconnect the negative lead first, and connect it last.
Oh yeah, and there's no need to power the system with a "memory saver" while disconnecting the battery. In fact, I would not do this as it could damage electronics by being too weak to power everything. After a battery disconnect, there are a few things you might lose. Radio presets should be retained, but your bass/treble setting might go back to zero. The auto-close function on the windows and sunroof may be lost. To reset this, open each one halfway, then raise each one fully, and continue to hold the switch int he "close" position for an extra 5 seconds. Finally, you may need to resync the steering angle sensor if you get an ESP error. To do this, start the engine and turn the steering wheel fully lock to lock a few times until the error clears.
Last edited by Rudeney; Mar 10, 2018 at 11:25 AM.
I was thinking of plugging in my Duracell power jumper portable battery pack (capable of cranking v8 engines and RVs) and to keep power to the electronics during the battery replacement process but your post has me reconsidering. I will keep you guys updated on all fixes so far brought up in this thread. Now, on to hunting for import car mechanics around my area and figuring out what these camshaft and centrifuge plugs are and whether I’m ordering the right stuff.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8-agm/10210828
I know on some cars (BMW) the electrical system also needs to be reset to properly charge a new battery. .
Ok so I got the battery you provided in the link and the advanced auto parts guy says if they disconnect the battery, the ECU will reset and you will need codes for radio and th car itself to restart it. It happens to a previous CLK before when he tried a few years back and happens to many, not all, Mercedes he tried to work on.
so, another mechanic it is. But is this true what he says. Last time i got a clk battery replaced was in 2013 and by a Mercedes dealer. So I wouldn’t know one bit or another about what he just said.




Ok so I got the battery you provided in the link and the advanced auto parts guy says if they disconnect the battery, the ECU will reset and you will need codes for radio and th car itself to restart it. It happens to a previous CLK before when he tried a few years back and happens to many, not all, Mercedes he tried to work on.
so, another mechanic it is. But is this true what he says. Last time i got a clk battery replaced was in 2013 and by a Mercedes dealer. So I wouldn’t know one bit or another about what he just said.
i will be changing the battery myself and resetting the auto up windows using the instructions my good friend from a couple posts above posted.
Kudos to you for buying and swapping your own battery. It's not rocket science - it's just a car.
You don't have to be a big greasy monster to wrench on cars, you just have to have a decent place to work on it and a set of basic and some
specialized tools.
It's cheaper to buy all the tools you need to do the job once than have a dealer do it for you.
That is what I plan on doing. Got the battery, Feb’18 date, while the washer pump is in the mail.
You see, I realized It can’t be that hard to install a battery? And what could really go wrong if the battery is disconnected.? I mean even Germans experience dead battery issue at times, and MB designs their vehicles with this in mind.
This is my 7-point action plan:
1. Open the hood and remove the two rubber inserts by the battery.
2. Remove the two nuts holding the bracket in place.
3. Loosen the terminal’s screws and yank out the terminals in one go, negative goes first.
4. Pray to God and with all the might, lift up the battery and throw it on the lawn so the grip won’t loosen and damage the car body while it’s in the air.
5. Put the new battery in place and install back the terminal plugs, positive first.
6. Screw on the bracket and insert the rubber inserts.
7. Quickly go and tell the wife of my achievement, so she be proud that she married the right man; then, come here and hammer on Thanks button.
There, that should sum it up and save $400 in the process.
i will let you guys know about the experience.
Thank you all for making it possible for me to own and keep the CLK going without much expense.
I am not excatly sure, but they are struggle for sure.


