CLK-Class (W209) 2003 on: CLK 270 CDI, CLK 200K, CLK 200 CGI, CLK 240, CLK 320, CLK 350, CLK 500, CLK 550 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

HELP, is this repair necessary?

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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 11:56 AM
  #1  
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CLK550
HELP, is this repair necessary?




I bought a 2009 CLK550 (36000 miles) a few weeks ago, my third CLK. The washer pump was not working and I wanted to know if the dealer I bought the car from actually changed the oil and filters as he said they did since the Service A message was not cleared from the system.

Also, I had bought an OEM Navigation 2015 update for my system and it was the first time I was using it on my drive to the dealer. The unit restarted twice on its own because it was “unable to read the navigation DVD”. So I go to dealer and bam, get hit with a $4300 repair quote:

1. Washer pump replacement.

2. Electrical fault in the navigation headunit and need to replace it entirely (I had no issue with it till now)

3. Engine oil and filters look good but are overdue for service (why? Just because there is a service message??)

4. Engine oil leak, need to replace camshaft cap (I did not see any leak on my garage floor).

5. Carbon build up due to vehicle not being used too much, need to clean the carbon buildup (is this true?)

There are more, please see attached printout from them. Am I getting taken for a ride here or what?

please advice.
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 03:44 PM
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2. I think its an issue with the dvd . Try using the old dvd . For that price you can have an 2018 top of the line aftermarket unit with 10x better navigation .
3. If oil looks good when you pull the dipstick then its fine . If you drive normally and put miles on it . I would do it every 3000 to 5000 miles on mobil 1. If you dont drive it that much . I change mine twice a year . I barely drive 2k miles but after 6 month the oil goes bad . Again use mobile 1 . What i do is i got to walmart get the 0w20 mobil-1 5 qt oil jugs . There 25 each . You car will take about 7.5 Quarts . Save the rest so the next time you only need to buy 1 jug instead of . Get a quality filter and take it to any shop they would do the service for $20 . There is no magic that need to be done to these cars . Its a simple plug on the bottom and filter is uptop.
4.Even if you do have an oil leak thats is a crazy price to change a $5 part . look at the car if it really is leaking just find an indy shop they will charge almost half.
5. To get rid of carbon build up is easy . Get in your car and warm it up . then drive it for a few minutes once everything is up to temperature go on the high and just punch it . of course don't speed . like when your about to go on the on ramp just punch it and get the rpms up . That will get rid of the carbon build up . Do it every now and then if you dont drive it much .
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 05:39 PM
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This is an example of how owning a luxury car out of warranty can get expensive if you cannot DIY anything. First, Service A is basically a $200+ oil change. If you think the oil was actually changed recently, decline that service, Then read the sticky above about how to reset the service indicator. Don't ever pay for the A or B service at a dealer on a 9 year old car. They are just designed as profit centers. Just have somebody change your oil if you cannot do it yourself. $200+ for cam plugs? They are round discs with a rubber seal that just press fit into the back of the heads. They cost a few bucks, and will take the mechanic 5 minutes to replace if he has done them before - and he has. It's about as difficult as screwing the lid on a jar of peanut butter. I do not doubt they are leaking if they were never replaced. They always leak. They mostly weep, so it will not go on the floor. But it may drip on the exhaust and stink. The centrifuge cover is basically the same thing on the passenger side, but is held in with three torx bolts. That might take him 15 minutes. Just go to a competent regular mechanic. Heck, those jobs barely require competence. I agree about your NAV disc - try putting the old disc back in. If it works, it is not the head unit. As for the cleaning, do as irokdastar says, but also get a bottle of Techron at any auto parts store and put it in a full tank of gas.
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 09:41 PM
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1. Those can go bad. I actually have a fault in mine in regards to the heating component, but still works.

2. Most likely the disc. Many eBayers sell counterfeit ones (especially the last updated version since they know people want those).

3. If the oil looks clean then very likely they did not reset the computer.

4. Definitely go to an indy for those. Very common issue. This thread should help a bit: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ver-issue.html

5. Run a bottle of techron with each fill up (when the fuel tank gets to a 1/4 tank or less and fill up all the way). I use the 20oz bottles. 2 or 3 treatments should clean most of it out. The oil should be changed after this is done so I'd just do it a couple of thousand miles before the oil change.

I notice they mention treatment for the cabin air. What I do is run the heater on full fan on the highest temperature for about 30 minutes. When I get odors in the vents I just do that and it kills it off.

Last edited by gaazmon; Mar 7, 2018 at 09:44 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 12:54 AM
  #5  
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CLK550
Thank you all for your input. Yes I’m a novice when it comes to these things. I can tell you the square roots of up to 2500 numbers instantly but cannot lift 100lbs and cannot change oil on my own.

But with all your help, I can overcome these glorified Toyota/Ford’esq dealers in MB disguise. The CLK (especially 550 series) is a God’s blessing to mankind and I believe it was made for everyone, including a nerd like me, to enjoy.

So, the washer pump is about the only thing I should get work done on with them, right?

Also, could anybody suggest me a good headunit that can do Apple carplay and these plugs?

What about the battery? They say it’s past it’s 5 year recommended use. Is there a special battery on 550 (similar to AMG) compared with the 350?

Thank you again for all your help.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 02:44 AM
  #6  
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Not sure if the 550 uses the same battery as a 350 or not, but there is nothing special about it. It's a fairly large battery, but you can get it at any auto parts store. Just be sure to get the newer technology called AGM. But don't replace a battery based on age. I replaced my original factory battery after about 9 years. Replace it only if it fails a "load test." Basically you test the voltage at three stages - while at rest, while cranking the engine, and while the engine is running. Although batteries are called 12-volt, at rest they are really more like 12.7. If it's only 12 it's on its way out. It will drop some while cranking, but a healthy battery will not drop too much. Take the car most anywhere to have it load tested. A "bad" battery can actually start your car for a long time, but a weak battery in these cars will cause all sorts of weird, transient electrical gremlins.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 02:52 AM
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Regarding the washer pump, if by "them" you mean the dealer, no. There are only a tiny number of things you should ever go to a dealer for - like coding a new instrument cluster. Avoid the dealer and their high rates whenever possible, which is pretty much always. On a scale of 1-10, replacing a washer pump is a 2 at most. Anybody can do it. It's a motor about the size of a D battery that goes on the side of the fluid reservoir, which sits in front of your front left wheel behind the black plastic liner.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 12:01 PM
  #8  
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CLK550
Originally Posted by Yidney
Regarding the washer pump, if by "them" you mean the dealer, no. There are only a tiny number of things you should ever go to a dealer for - like coding a new instrument cluster. Avoid the dealer and their high rates whenever possible, which is pretty much always. On a scale of 1-10, replacing a washer pump is a 2 at most. Anybody can do it. It's a motor about the size of a D battery that goes on the side of the fluid reservoir, which sits in front of your front left wheel behind the black plastic liner.
hello,
Thank you for the reply. I will have to find a DYI on that. I was looking up parts on MB parts store and pump is like $30 and homey is $3, I wonder how come the dealer was charging 10 times that amount!?

I will have to replace the battery because if any future electrical components go bad, CNA, my extended warranty company, might reject any claim due to battery exceeding its recommended replacement cycle. And I will have to do it at the dealer because I may have problems with the radio codes or any other codes that might get cleared/reset due to battery replacement.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 02:13 PM
  #9  
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No, you do not need the dealer to do the battery. There is no radio code on these cars, or any other resetting except the windows and/or sunroof, which are simple and even you can do it. It involves holding the buttons for a few seconds. You need to get over your dealer thing - it's making me picture a toilet with money swirling in it. And I did not say a weak battery will ruin any components - it can just make them act funky now and then - like your radio will only play Trump's inaugural address on a continuous loop.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Yidney
No, you do not need the dealer to do the battery. There is no radio code on these cars, or any other resetting except the windows and/or sunroof, which are simple and even you can do it. It involves holding the buttons for a few seconds. You need to get over your dealer thing - it's making me picture a toilet with money swirling in it.
LOL! Back when I was into sailing, I used to tell people who were considering it to first try standing in a cold shower, fully clothed, and dropping $100 bills down the drain. If they were comfortable with that, then by all means - get yourself a sailboat. Now I can use your analogy of the money int he toilet bowl for buying an MBZ!

And I did not say a weak battery will ruin any components - it can just make them act funky now and then
Actually, if you try starting the engine with a weak battery and it engages the starter, then voltage drops and the solenoid drops out, then it recovers and the solenoid kicks in, repeat, repeat, it can cause spikes that will damage the SAMs.

like your radio will only play Trump's inaugural address on a continuous loop.
Better than Beyonce. But if I have to play something on a loop, I think I'd choose some Eminem or maybe Haddaway. :p
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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 12:32 AM
  #11  
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CLK550
Thank you, I guess we all need a “wake up” back-hand to the face every now and then. I’ll buy the battery on my own and replace it. No need for the dealer. And with the weak battery ruining componets comment, I was referring to how my extended warranty company may use it as a basis for delaying claim on any electrical issues. Worse than that, I do not want to listen to that ginger’s Speech or Beyoncé screeching out my speaker cones. I will get that battery issue taken care of.

Thank you once again, I’ll keep you posted. If you have any suggestions or precautions before I replace any components, please let me know.
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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 08:45 AM
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Regarding your battery.... Most auto parts stores will check and replace the battery for you. When they do, they have a small battery device that essentially keeps power to the car essentials while the battery is being disconnected and changed. Also, you can position the hood to it's 90 degree position (press in the red button on the driver side hood strut) which makes it easier to remove and replace the battery.

AND I would be upset with any of the things mentioned thus far looping on my radio...... most of them would annoy w/o looping.... but I like you guys anyway...
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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 08:49 AM
  #13  
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If you mean that you will do the work yourself on the battery, there are a couple tips. First, your hood can be raised to a straight up position, which helps get the battery out. On your driver's side hood strut there is a red button halfway up. Press it and raise the hood all the way up. Second, your battery is covered by the black case that holds your cabin air filter. It comes off with a couple obvious clips. It will give you a good chance to inspect the filter, which is probably full of leaves and dirt and bugs. Third, there is rubber weather strip on the inside and outside edge of the well the battery sits in. They just press on. Pull those off and the battery will clear more easily. Fourth, you will need a 10mm wrench or socket for the battery terminals, then there is bracket that holds it at the bottom front of the battery that is held by one nut that you will need a socket extension to reach. I forget the size - probably 14mm.
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 11:21 AM
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The battery goes by "Size 49" or "Group H8". I like this one:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8-agm/10210828

They are running a 25% off coupon special right now for online orders (pickup in store). The only think about having them swap the battery is that some stores won't do it on a MBZ. Apparently, they are afraid of damaging the electronics and then being liable. I know on some cars (BMW) the electrical system also needs to be reset to properly charge a new battery. MBZs don't need this, but auto parts stores often don;t understand that. But, as Yidney explained, DIY is fairly easy. My only advice is to be very diligent in removing and replacing the negative terminal. Don't be afraid - you might get a brief spark, but it won't hurt you. Just pull it off and put it on in one move. "Stuttering" the connection can cause showers of sparks and surges that could damage electrical parts. ANd of course always disconnect the negative lead first, and connect it last.

Oh yeah, and there's no need to power the system with a "memory saver" while disconnecting the battery. In fact, I would not do this as it could damage electronics by being too weak to power everything. After a battery disconnect, there are a few things you might lose. Radio presets should be retained, but your bass/treble setting might go back to zero. The auto-close function on the windows and sunroof may be lost. To reset this, open each one halfway, then raise each one fully, and continue to hold the switch int he "close" position for an extra 5 seconds. Finally, you may need to resync the steering angle sensor if you get an ESP error. To do this, start the engine and turn the steering wheel fully lock to lock a few times until the error clears.

Last edited by Rudeney; Mar 10, 2018 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 10:17 PM
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CLK550
Thank you for the reply. The store is offline right now for mailtenance so there goes my coupon, I always think when they get too many sales on coupons, they take the website offline till sale/coupon time ends and then bring it back online. B**%#+ are very sneaky.

I was thinking of plugging in my Duracell power jumper portable battery pack (capable of cranking v8 engines and RVs) and to keep power to the electronics during the battery replacement process but your post has me reconsidering. I will keep you guys updated on all fixes so far brought up in this thread. Now, on to hunting for import car mechanics around my area and figuring out what these camshaft and centrifuge plugs are and whether I’m ordering the right stuff.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Rudeney
The battery goes by "Size 49" or "Group H8". I like this one:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8-agm/10210828

I know on some cars (BMW) the electrical system also needs to be reset to properly charge a new battery. .
This is what swore me off BMW FOREVER!!!! 1,500 dollars for a battery..... 1000 of the battery 500 to reset the system, I called BS and found an indy to do it for half which for the work involved was total robbery. I promptly drove to a Mazda dealer and traded it. It was my Airport car and while I loved it, every time I took it to BMW it was a grand for something. Also they are not like MBZ's they are nearly impossible to work on with out the BMW factory computer. F BMW forever!!
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 06:06 PM
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Hello,

Ok so I got the battery you provided in the link and the advanced auto parts guy says if they disconnect the battery, the ECU will reset and you will need codes for radio and th car itself to restart it. It happens to a previous CLK before when he tried a few years back and happens to many, not all, Mercedes he tried to work on.

so, another mechanic it is. But is this true what he says. Last time i got a clk battery replaced was in 2013 and by a Mercedes dealer. So I wouldn’t know one bit or another about what he just said.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 09:48 PM
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I think the auto parts rep is either just unsure of what he is doing, thinks it is too much work to change a battery on a MB, or perhaps he is being driven by some issue with a W208 clk or some mistake he made in the swaps. You could just change it yourself with the input you've gotten from this forum. I have had my battery drain to the point the dome lights would not illuminate (bad alternator) and there were no real issues once the battery was charged. Just had to recalibrate windows, sunroof, and reset the clock.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Kahin Dur
Hello,

Ok so I got the battery you provided in the link and the advanced auto parts guy says if they disconnect the battery, the ECU will reset and you will need codes for radio and th car itself to restart it. It happens to a previous CLK before when he tried a few years back and happens to many, not all, Mercedes he tried to work on.

so, another mechanic it is. But is this true what he says. Last time i got a clk battery replaced was in 2013 and by a Mercedes dealer. So I wouldn’t know one bit or another about what he just said.
So you decided to believe the guy at the auto parts store over those of us here who actually own these cars?
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 12:07 AM
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Lol, Yindey, absolutely not. I was just thrown off when he said the previous CLK he worked on didn’t start and needed codes. But then I remembered that it could very well have been a w208 model. I’ll be going back to them and picking up a new battery tomorrow because the battery they gave me for my store pickup order was from back in May 2017. I told him I want a 2018 date on it.

i will be changing the battery myself and resetting the auto up windows using the instructions my good friend from a couple posts above posted.
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 12:42 AM
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Some guys at the auto parts stores know there stuff. Others just know how to repeat urban legends. Many years ago, I had a brake pad break. Half of the friction material broke off from the metal. Since it was something of an emergency, I went looking for a (non-dealer) source. The first auto parts store I checked said he did not stock them, but could order them, but wouldn't because "Those Mur-Say-Dees have springs in them that can jump out and kill ya." I kid you not! This was even in the days before SBC where, yes, with it, there is a risk if you don't disable it.

Kudos to you for buying and swapping your own battery. It's not rocket science - it's just a car.
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Old Mar 15, 2018 | 01:06 PM
  #22  
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If you own one of these cars you better get handy with diy or you are going to dish out a lot of cash paying other people to do it for you.
You don't have to be a big greasy monster to wrench on cars, you just have to have a decent place to work on it and a set of basic and some
specialized tools.
It's cheaper to buy all the tools you need to do the job once than have a dealer do it for you.
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Old Mar 15, 2018 | 11:03 PM
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CLK550
Hello,

That is what I plan on doing. Got the battery, Feb’18 date, while the washer pump is in the mail.

You see, I realized It can’t be that hard to install a battery? And what could really go wrong if the battery is disconnected.? I mean even Germans experience dead battery issue at times, and MB designs their vehicles with this in mind.
This is my 7-point action plan:

1. Open the hood and remove the two rubber inserts by the battery.
2. Remove the two nuts holding the bracket in place.
3. Loosen the terminal’s screws and yank out the terminals in one go, negative goes first.
4. Pray to God and with all the might, lift up the battery and throw it on the lawn so the grip won’t loosen and damage the car body while it’s in the air.
5. Put the new battery in place and install back the terminal plugs, positive first.
6. Screw on the bracket and insert the rubber inserts.
7. Quickly go and tell the wife of my achievement, so she be proud that she married the right man; then, come here and hammer on Thanks button.

There, that should sum it up and save $400 in the process.

i will let you guys know about the experience.

Thank you all for making it possible for me to own and keep the CLK going without much expense.
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Old Mar 15, 2018 | 11:35 PM
  #24  
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You forgot step 1.5 - raise the hood to the service position (see Yidney's post #13 above)
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 02:20 AM
  #25  
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And the battery is real heavy, so might want to throw some thick blankets on the fender beforehand, and maybe set it on a sturdy chair instead of the floor because it could weigh upwards of 50 lbs.
I am not excatly sure, but they are struggle for sure.
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