Looking at a 2008 CLK350 few question about it
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2008 CLK350
Looking at a 2008 CLK350 few question about it
New Here! Going to buy a CLK350 from a family member. It’s a 2008 model with about 275k miles, runs great, good condition convertible MB. We know all the history of the car and never had any major issues except the balance shaft.
1. The transmission has never been touched but shifts absolutely perfect and smooth. It’s got 275k miles, should I go ahead and do a drain and fill with new filter?
2. The balance shaft has already been addressed and got a new chain and all other components in that area
3. Is there any other common issues I should look at?
im going to buy the car reguardless but just wanted to get a head start on the ins and outs of these cars. Any info is appreciated!
1. The transmission has never been touched but shifts absolutely perfect and smooth. It’s got 275k miles, should I go ahead and do a drain and fill with new filter?
2. The balance shaft has already been addressed and got a new chain and all other components in that area
3. Is there any other common issues I should look at?
im going to buy the car reguardless but just wanted to get a head start on the ins and outs of these cars. Any info is appreciated!
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As a MY2008, it should not have had any balance shaft issues, but at that mileage, chain and tensioner/guide wear could have been an issue. On the transmission, I would change the fluid and filter. There is an "urban legend" that it;s better to leave it alone, but in reality, if new fluid causes problems, it was on borrowed time anyhow. Understand the that canvas top may need some attention as well as the top hydraulics.
Are you going to DIY? If not, these can be VERY expensive cars to maintain.
Are you going to DIY? If not, these can be VERY expensive cars to maintain.
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2008 CLK350
Planning to diy it. Yes surprisingly it was the balance shaft. It went at 248k miles. I knew about the urban ledgend transmission but just wanted to see what y’all recommended since at least in my opinion it is an extreme case. I want the longest life out of the components in it already so I figure I would change it since it seems to be in great shape as it is.
These seem to be pretty bulletproof units as it is so want to see how much life can be pushed out of this thing.
These seem to be pretty bulletproof units as it is so want to see how much life can be pushed out of this thing.
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Interesting about the balance shaft failing - I assume it was the sprocket that deteriorated as is the typical failure? But then again, parts do wear, and who's to say that 248K miles is not an appropriate lifespan for that?
The issue with transmission fluid is that it does get thicker with particulate as the friction surfaces on the clutches wear. That actually helps worn clutches continue to grip, but it adversely affects the hydraulic functions within the transmission. The theory is that new fluid will be thinner and you now have less friction in the worn clutches so they might slip. So, the fluid change itself isn't the problem, it's worn clutches. If you are a really advanced DIYer, you could swap in a used transmission, or even rebuild yours. There are kits readily available and plenty of documentation on ATRA.
The issue with transmission fluid is that it does get thicker with particulate as the friction surfaces on the clutches wear. That actually helps worn clutches continue to grip, but it adversely affects the hydraulic functions within the transmission. The theory is that new fluid will be thinner and you now have less friction in the worn clutches so they might slip. So, the fluid change itself isn't the problem, it's worn clutches. If you are a really advanced DIYer, you could swap in a used transmission, or even rebuild yours. There are kits readily available and plenty of documentation on ATRA.
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2008 CLK350
well The dealership that did the repair diagnosed it as that. We actually limped the car 15 miles to the dealer with it hardly running. It all happened instantly started to run poorly and we took it there and got the diagnosis back 3 days later. It took them over a month so repair the car and $6,000 later it runs perfectly ever since with all new timing components and a few other related parts.
I want the the car to be as trouble free as possible and achieve 350k at least with original engine and trans.
The trans currently shifts perfect and Butter smooth. I know it has not been touch. But my gut says change it anyway.
The car is for my dad and he doesn’t have money to put in it other then maintenance. He really just needed a car to drive and started a new career where he would be driving it 80 miles a day full highway though which is easier on it anyway.
He has a Nissan Maxima with 387k miles and it had the water pump explode at 384k and it let water leak into the crankcase and the timing chain slipped off of it and shedded metal shavings in oil as well and had a half a baseball size of shavings in oil pan. Car still runs but starts a knocking noises after driving 40 miles one way. Still drives everyday but it is really on borrowed time.
Sorry for the story telling just trying to give some background on why we need car to last.
We know small things will happen along the way which is all good but want to keep it serviced so the major parts don’t have any issues.
Will upload pictures and maybe make a video in the coming week or two just to show how well condition this car is in for the miles!
I want the the car to be as trouble free as possible and achieve 350k at least with original engine and trans.
The trans currently shifts perfect and Butter smooth. I know it has not been touch. But my gut says change it anyway.
The car is for my dad and he doesn’t have money to put in it other then maintenance. He really just needed a car to drive and started a new career where he would be driving it 80 miles a day full highway though which is easier on it anyway.
He has a Nissan Maxima with 387k miles and it had the water pump explode at 384k and it let water leak into the crankcase and the timing chain slipped off of it and shedded metal shavings in oil as well and had a half a baseball size of shavings in oil pan. Car still runs but starts a knocking noises after driving 40 miles one way. Still drives everyday but it is really on borrowed time.
Sorry for the story telling just trying to give some background on why we need car to last.
We know small things will happen along the way which is all good but want to keep it serviced so the major parts don’t have any issues.
Will upload pictures and maybe make a video in the coming week or two just to show how well condition this car is in for the miles!
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If the car limped, then it probably wasn't a balance shaft issue. When it wears, it just throw a couple of codes and illuminates the MIL. The ECU can compensate for this. If left unchecked, it could eventually cause timing chain failure, but that would likely be tens of thousands of miles (or more) after the error codes appear. My guess is that it might have been a broken timing chain that skipped a tooth. After 248K miles, the timing chain becomes a "maintenance item".
So yes, small world! An since you live in Alabama, I have to ask the question - you know the one - "Alabama" or "Auburn"? And of course if you give the wrong answer, I'll not help you anymore. No, not really...probably. :-)
So yes, small world! An since you live in Alabama, I have to ask the question - you know the one - "Alabama" or "Auburn"? And of course if you give the wrong answer, I'll not help you anymore. No, not really...probably. :-)
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From: Worcester, MA
15' CLS400
Second the urban ledgend. I just changed the fluid in mine and its got 210k mi on it. Note, if your doing it yourself you need to go buy the filler piece on amazon or somewhere (MVA588), then go to the hardware store and get some hose to plug onto it. Other than that, just follow the directions on other threads. Also note the rubber gasket is a real pain getting it to sit right so it doesn't leak.
Oh ya, as far as other high mileage repairs you'll prob also need to do the intake manifold flap repairs if that hasn't been done. Had to do mine this summer. You'll get a codes but may not get a CEL light.
Oh ya, as far as other high mileage repairs you'll prob also need to do the intake manifold flap repairs if that hasn't been done. Had to do mine this summer. You'll get a codes but may not get a CEL light.
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Yeah, the fluid and filter change on the 722.9 7-speed is not rocket science, but it does require a bit of extra effort and the right tools. I bought an Assenmacher pump to do the job. Honestly, even using it the first time it paid for itself over spending over $300 at an indy or $50+ at the dealer (even including the cost of the filter, gasket and oil). Since then, I've used another 6-8 times so it's"money in the bank" now. For some people, lifting the vehicle with enough room to SAFELY work underneath AND with the transmission pan level may be a challenge. I have a good floor jack, use the center jack points, then slide in jack stands on the corners and it's easy. The only real challenge I had was getting the temperature just right. Instead of it being "cold" or "full operating temp", it's 113F, which only happens for a moment on it's way to ope temp which is about 185F.
Ditto on the intake manifold. There are inexpensive and well-made repair kits for that, but it does require removing the intake manifold, which is a pain. You can get a new Pierberg OEM manifold for around $500. At that high mileage, I might consider replacing rather than repairing. The reason those levers fail is because the flaps inside the manifold get some buildup on them that makes them drag when actuated. That gunk can also cause the flaps to break, and you don't want pieces sucked into the combustion chamber.
Ditto on the intake manifold. There are inexpensive and well-made repair kits for that, but it does require removing the intake manifold, which is a pain. You can get a new Pierberg OEM manifold for around $500. At that high mileage, I might consider replacing rather than repairing. The reason those levers fail is because the flaps inside the manifold get some buildup on them that makes them drag when actuated. That gunk can also cause the flaps to break, and you don't want pieces sucked into the combustion chamber.
