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Hello MBworld Friends.
So as title says currently working on getting my 2003 CLK 320 to very reliable point some odd thing has been happening to it lately its goo 188 miles on it now, just did the oil change on it for this year and I switched the spark plugs with 12 new bosch double iridium and new mann intake filters.. yet I'm still getting 10-14 miles per gallon in the city not sure why... maybe the coils need replacing ? I'm am going to replace the fuel filter and run seafoam in the gas tank in the hopes it cleans the injectors and hopes that helps but for you CLK owners what did you do to fix your gas mileage issue?
2. The other weird thing the car has been doing is with the transmission i don't know if its called limp mode? but bassicaly it started after a day of heavy rain and the car was parked in the driveway and when i took off it was stuck in first gear also when i put it in drive the car did a heavy JOLT forward and loud thunk it made me grind my teeth and cringe.... i stopped a few feet down the road and I couldn't put it back in P only neutral and so i turned the car off and turn it back on and put it in drive and voila car went into drive but didn't actually display it next to the mileage..so I turned it off again while in neutral because again didn't let me go into parked, again turned it on and the car went into drive and started working like normal again? could it be that some water got into somewhere important like one of the computers I checked the fuse box/CPU on the front driver's side and it was closed and actually wasn't wet or cracked, so I did my research in the forums apparently could be this piece of plastic "conductor plate' goes out with heat over long period of time? I'm not quite sure if that's what it could be but maybe could explain why when the transmission is working like normal it lags to got from P to D, it takes a good 3 seconds, if it is this conductor plate and I buy the transmission kit, isn't it bad to take out the complete fluid out of the transmission isn't it better to leave what's in there and top it off with new ATF fluid... I don't see how I could do that if I replace the conductor plate.
3. Where could I find the Lemforder 10 piece suspension kit for the front as the bushings on both front wheels are out, for a good price found them on eBay only for $600... but I've seen the man Rudeny say in another post it can be bought for $400 but can't find them anywhere at that price, also for my car should I get Bilstein sport shocks or what shocks should I get for my car to regain a quiet and comfortable ride quality? the ones I've got are doneso, kinda squeaky, super long to read I know but any help and knowledge is appreciated haha just a 22 year old trying to keep this car for a little longer. P.S yeah, I know the lights need replacing lol.
Hello MBworld Friends.
So as title says currently working on getting my 2003 CLK 320 to very reliable point some odd thing has been happening to it lately its goo 188 miles on it now, just did the oil change on it for this year and I switched the spark plugs with 12 new bosch double iridium and new mann intake filters.. yet I'm still getting 10-14 miles per gallon in the city not sure why... maybe the coils need replacing ? I'm am going to replace the fuel filter and run seafoam in the gas tank in the hopes it cleans the injectors and hopes that helps but for you CLK owners what did you do to fix your gas mileage issue?
Have you pulled codes to see if anything is current or stored, even if the MIL is not illuminated? Sometimes a bad MAF sensor can cause this.
2. The other weird thing the car has been doing is with the transmission i don't know if its called limp mode? but bassicaly it started after a day of heavy rain and the car was parked in the driveway and when i took off it was stuck in first gear also when i put it in drive the car did a heavy JOLT forward and loud thunk it made me grind my teeth and cringe.... i stopped a few feet down the road and I couldn't put it back in P only neutral and so i turned the car off and turn it back on and put it in drive and voila car went into drive but didn't actually display it next to the mileage..so I turned it off again while in neutral because again didn't let me go into parked, again turned it on and the car went into drive and started working like normal again? could it be that some water got into somewhere important like one of the computers I checked the fuse box/CPU on the front driver's side and it was closed and actually wasn't wet or cracked, so I did my research in the forums apparently could be this piece of plastic "conductor plate' goes out with heat over long period of time? I'm not quite sure if that's what it could be but maybe could explain why when the transmission is working like normal it lags to got from P to D, it takes a good 3 seconds, if it is this conductor plate and I buy the transmission kit, isn't it bad to take out the complete fluid out of the transmission isn't it better to leave what's in there and top it off with new ATF fluid... I don't see how I could do that if I replace the conductor plate.
I am wondering if you have a linkage problem, or maybe the lever inside the transmission that the shifter actuates has broken. There is nothing electronic that would prevent you from shifting to park. That would on;y be a mechanical issue. And if the linkage or that internal lever is broken, if the shifter position and the transmission's internal lever position don't match, then you won't get the gear display on the cluster and you can get limp mode.
If you do drop the transmission pan, then you need to replace the filter and the fluid. The whole thing about "new transmission fluid" causing failures is an urban legend.
3. Where could I find the Lemforder 10 piece suspension kit for the front as the bushings on both front wheels are out, for a good price found them on eBay only for $600... but I've seen the man Rudeny say in another post it can be bought for $400 but can't find them anywhere at that price, also for my car should I get Bilstein sport shocks or what shocks should I get for my car to regain a quiet and comfortable ride quality? the ones I've got are doneso, kinda squeaky, super long to read I know but any help and knowledge is appreciated haha just a 22 year old trying to keep this car for a little longer.
I did not buy all 10 pieces for $400 - only the four control arms. My tie rods and anti-sway bar links were fine. I think I bought mine from partsgeek, but I can't be sure - I do recall spending some time shopping for the best prices. BTW, be careful buying on ebay and Amazon as they often sell fake parts.
Thanks for the quick reply man! and okay cool yeah like every actual mechanic I spoke to has told me to not take fluid out and just fill wit the ATF but I'm like that makes no sense? especially if you have a leak.... maybe it was made up by mechanics to make more money off people? anyways I still haven't bought the computer that reads the codes think ill get that next and will look for the parts in partsgeek and autohauz as I bought my spark plugs from them and they got the parts to me in 2 days also they sell a ton of Benz parts. Hope you're well my guy I've learned so much about MBZ because of you! how would i figure out if its a linkage problem ?
10-11-2018, 06:16 PM
