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CLK Leather Seat Repair

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Old 12-06-2018, 05:11 PM
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2007 CLK350 Cabriolet
CLK Leather Seat Repair

I just got a great deal on a 2004 CLK 320 Cabriolet, with a rip in the driver bottom seat cushion. I figured I'd repair myself so I bought a used cushion in good condition it but now I need some help. I already removed the entire seat assembly from the vehicle so I can work on it, and then popped out the 4 plastic pins underneath the seat, but I can't seem to remove the bottom cushion. I understand there are two plastic spring loaded hinges in the back that the cushion rests on, but I can't pop off the cushion from the front. Any ideas?



Old 12-06-2018, 07:47 PM
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2023 E450 AT, 1996 S420, (sold) 2004 CLK320 Convertible (v8, 6 speed)
Faced the same problem with those clear plastic hinges. I was afraid to broke them so for me the easiest way was to remove leather cover from bottom cushion.
Leather cover is attached to foam part and to metal frame. So if you detach leather cover from metal frame (it's super easy) you'll be able to swap leather foam on both cushions.
Old 12-06-2018, 09:34 PM
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NO LONGER ACTIVE
You just have to pry between the plastic brackets and the seat bottom. They will snap with the center pins removed.
Old 12-16-2018, 02:26 PM
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clk w209 240 petrol
with a plate screwdriver, with me 1 was broken down and then fastened with a screw
Old 12-16-2018, 02:30 PM
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clk w209 240 petrol

like this one
Old 06-05-2019, 02:23 PM
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2005 320CLK Cab
I posted this earlier today & can't seem to find the thread so sorry for a repost if it in fact 'took'.

My '05 320CLK had a similiar problem. The driver side stitching broke. The stitch holes are fine. Had an upholsterer look at it, $300 to restitch. But he later declined to pull the seat as he says he's had issues with the seat electronics in the past (see above about NOT turning the car on for this job)
and the local dealer wants $800 for a new lower skin install & claims < 1 hour worth of work.

So it's on my 'todo' list for today. the original upholsterer said he'd restitch the seat if I pulled the skin.
I also want to tinker with whatever microswitch is down there that registers the seat in a locked position as I'm tired of slamming it down to get the seat to move again.
and as mentioned above...time to clean out below the seat with a carpet extractor.

The passenger side is starting this same problem, but the upholsterer said "Leave it alone for now"

Update:
Pulled the seat fairly easily. 10mm reverse torx
fishing the wire harness from the seat to stay with the car was the toughest part. It's an odd angle with the seat tilted back in the car.
flipped the seat upside down in the garage
popped the 4 plastic retainers holding the clear plastic u bracket (seen above) using a cheapo Harbor freight metal tool (can post pics later)
popped the (2) clear plastic u brackets away via a slotted screwdriver under them
slipped the rear of the cushion off by the (2) rubber extensions with spring.

Problem: how the heck to get the seat heater wire out of that harness? looks like one goes to the seat, the other maybe to the back?
for now, I snipped it in the middle & will solder them back together later.

Oh, a couple of the plastic track covers (more for look than function) that sit between the seat tracks & carpet have broken/cracked over the years. I doubt glue will hold the pieces together.
any idea where a schematic is for part #s & where I can get them? Strictly MB?

Last edited by clydem; 06-05-2019 at 02:25 PM.
Old 06-08-2019, 08:20 PM
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2005 320CLK Cab
Got the skin back a day later and was charged $50. I think that was very fair. And I'm guarenteed it'll match the old interior as opposed to the new one might not match. He did a great job.
Getting the seat back together wasn't a big deal. It went back together much easier than it came apart. It helps to have experienced it once
I wanted to use a molex connector after snipping the heater wires, but with Radio Shack gone, I couldn't find one local so it was solder & heat shrink tubing.

Vacuumed the area well. That's all it really needed. Found myself .36 cents.

I still need the plastic trim pieces at the tracks-to-carpet..

I couldn't figure out why I sometimes need to slam the seat down to get it to move. But I lubed everything anyways. It was pretty clean & dust free.
The head rest unit is still flaky. It isn't going up or down at the moment. I did have the back off & disconnected the wire. There is 12V to the motor though either the switch or relay under the seat isn't working.
When I put power to the seat controller, the "clicking" started. So I suspect the controller and it's relay is the culprit.
Old 09-15-2019, 10:44 AM
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CLK 320
Originally Posted by Rudeney
You just have to pry between the plastic brackets and the seat bottom. They will snap with the center pins removed.
Rodney,

You solved my problem with the rear right lights not working (I simply had to double-check/wiggle the connector holding the bulb assembly and everything's working again -- thanks!). Now I have another issue: I am trying to replace the driver's LOWER seat cushion. I've already got the replacement and it's perfect and appears to have the seat heater cord (I hope that's what it is) coming out of the bottom. Do you have -- or can you point me in the right direction for details on pulling out the old cushion? Looking under the seat, it appears their are plastic clamps that need to be removed first and I would like to do it without breaking them. Can I just use a screw driver to pry them out?

Thanks again for your help.

Eric

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