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2009 clk 350 with HK audio. Subwoofer was making a terrible noise and then stopped all together. I pulled it and it is ohming out infinite resistance. I have seen people repair them but I really have no interest in rebuilding it. Is there a direct fit replacement? I know very very little about audio so I get this may be a stupid question. Just hoping to spend a few hundred to drop in a better speaker rather than buy a used factory speaker.
I know there are max watts, rms and ohms to consider but I don’t know what the factory stats on the speaker are. Part number is a2098201902 but that has yielded me nothing in terms of a quick drop in replacement
Yeah that’s the one. I have found a few online for about $60, wish it was a better factory speaker for a HK system.
When I got my car a few months back, I considered trying to find a way to adapt an aftermarket subwoofer to the stock opening, but after studying the mounting bracket, it just seemed like it was going to be way too much work for what would likely amount to a negligible improvement in bass.
If you decide to try it, I'd be interested to see how it works out.
Mine is the coupe by the way, which has a different setup from the convertible.
When I got my car a few months back, I considered trying to find a way to adapt an aftermarket subwoofer to the stock opening, but after studying the mounting bracket, it just seemed like it was going to be way too much work for what would likely amount to a negligible improvement in bass.
If you decide to try it, I'd be interested to see how it works out.
Mine is the coupe by the way, which has a different setup from the convertible.
I will try a low profile sub but I don’t know the stats of the oem sub. I don’t know if I need 2 or 4 ohms and how the whole fiber optic thing works for just putting in a new speaker. If I can get some basic info I will document the process and post it up.
just found it’s a 2ohm speaker so I am going to pick up a speaker and play around with it. I removed my speaker from the bracket and cleaned up the adhesive that was there.
Previously, I think I assumed that the metal grill-type think on the HK subwoofer was part of the overall assembly (and would be a hassle to remove). But after looking around a bit just now, i think that metal grill-type piece is actually part of the woofer which is easily removed.
Assuming this to be the case, i think the subwoofer might be fairly easy to replace. I think I might give it a whirl if I can locate a free air sub with the correct impedance. Since the stock amp will be powering it, I think it will be important to pick a sub with the highest sensitivity possible. So far, the highest I've found is about 90 db, but I'm hoping to find something with a bit higher sensitivity if possible.
Update: The highest sensitivity sub I've found is the Cadence US8D2 (92 db). No idea if it's suitable for free air use, but it might be worth a shot.
Can you let me know how the installation goes, and what the result is? I'm really interested to know, since a bit more (and higher quality) bass would be nice.
Previously, I think I assumed that the metal grill-type think on the HK subwoofer was part of the overall assembly (and would be a hassle to remove). But after looking around a bit just now, i think that metal grill-type piece is actually part of the woofer which is easily removed.
Assuming this to be the case, i think the subwoofer might be fairly easy to replace. I think I might give it a whirl if I can locate a free air sub with the correct impedance. Since the stock amp will be powering it, I think it will be important to pick a sub with the highest sensitivity possible. So far, the highest I've found is about 90 db, but I'm hoping to find something with a bit higher sensitivity if possible.
Update: The highest sensitivity sub I've found is the Cadence US8D2 (92 db). No idea if it's suitable for free air use, but it might be worth a shot.
Can you let me know how the installation goes, and what the result is? I'm really interested to know, since a bit more (and higher quality) bass would be nice.
I am glad you mentioned sensitivity because I had not considered it. I have been looking around and might go fairly cheap with a kicker 8” dvc 4ohm (wired for 2 ohms to match factory) that comes in at 85.6 db. Not as high as the 90s but most I have come across are in the 81 range. Any thoughts? I have to measure the speaker bracket when I get home to verify fitment. Also this is a free air subwoofer.
its the kicker. Medium sensitivity, fairly low rms (could not find factory amp output, guessing) open air friendly, can wire for 2 ohms. Speaker is rated fairly well and the price is right for an experiment.
Looks like a good choice to me! After a quick search, it looks like sensitivity ratings might not be all that accurate anyway depending on the manuafacturer. Taking that into consideration, suitability for free air use would probably be more important.
Looks like a good choice to me! After a quick search, it looks like sensitivity ratings might not be all that accurate anyway depending on the manuafacturer. Taking that into consideration, suitability for free air use would probably be more important.
Looking forward to hearing how it works out!
Speaker just arrived. It looks like a pretty easy fit. I will have to use a drimel or something to modify the bracket which I assumed would be the case. I will do a video blog and post the progress
Speaker just arrived. It looks like a pretty easy fit. I will have to use a drimel or something to modify the bracket which I assumed would be the case. I will do a video blog and post the progress
That would be amazing, thank you! Really curious to see how this works out. Hopefully it will be better than the stock paper sub!
That would be amazing, thank you! Really curious to see how this works out. Hopefully it will be better than the stock paper sub!
Hooked it up for a test before doing the mounting and nothing. No sound at all, all the speakers hook up to the amp in the trunk so I wonder if just the sub port failed. Every other speaker works fine.
update. Opened the trunk and unbolted the amp. Checked the speaker wire connections, seems like they all have continuity except for the sub speakers. Purple and brown and purple wires. I will investigate more tomorrow.
Bummer, it sounds like the sub channel died on the amp?
Just did a quick check on ebay- it looks like used amps are around $200 (ouch)! Although buying a stock amp is still probably cheaper and easier than going the aftermarket route.
Edit: It looks like the Harman amplifiers can be had as cheap as around $95 + shipping for a used one. That's not so bad I suppose.
Bummer, it sounds like the sub channel died on the amp?
Just did a quick check on ebay- it looks like used amps are around $200 (ouch)! Although buying a stock amp is still probably cheaper and easier than going the aftermarket route.
Edit: It looks like the Harman amplifiers can be had as cheap as around $95 + shipping for a used one. That's not so bad I suppose.
My thoughts too. I want to start upgrading so I am debating replacing the factory amp with the same or upgrading more, getting rid of the MOST fiber optics and being done with it.
update. Went out this morning to tamper with it some more. Decided to open up the amp and clean the internals and check for anything obvious. There was no visible damage. I cleaned it up with some contact cleaner and slapped it back in. The speaker started to work but barely. I unplugged the speaker and tested the resistance... 3.9 ohms. I pulled the wire removing the dvc connection so the speaker was at a 4 ohm load and now it is thumping pretty good.
I have the speaker dropped in after modifying the bracket and need to figure out what I will do with the speaker holes not being out wide enough to make the lip of the bracket. I figured this might be an issue since the original paper cone speaker was glued down and had virtually no rim to it.
It’s in and bumping pretty good. I would go with a shallow mount in the future though so to the speaker cover not fitting anymore. I will modify that another day. I am very pleased with the sound improvement this made.
speaker is wired to stock factory Harmon Becker amplifier and is wired for 4ohms of resistance Factory bracket cut with drimel so peaked drops in Speaker dropped into bracket after modification to bracket. Bolt holes are not making contact with bracket rim. Aluminum mixing board I found at harbor freight. This was slightly thicker than sheeting at Lowe’s and was also cheaper. Using new speaker as template for exterior diameter cut. The factory subwoofer cone itself is 7” and exactly what I need for the new speaker mounting screws. Cone cut from rim Metal sheet I cut. 8.5” exterior diameter and 7” interior diameter. Screwed to factory bracket with 1/2” sheet metal screws Speaker mounted into factory bracket after all modifications.
Wow, nice work, and thanks for the tutorial! Glad to hear your amp started working again, and great news that the sub is working out! Bummer that the magnet doesn't fit beneath the cover...
Your success is really making me want to try this out. It seems worth the effort for sure (at least for me). I'm going to start researching low profile subs to see if any free air versions are out there.
I have a question, too (maybe a stupid one): were you able to access and unscrew/remove the sub just by taking off the grill behind the back seat? Or do you have to tear apart other stuff as well?
Wow, nice work, and thanks for the tutorial! Glad to hear your amp started working again, and great news that the sub is working out! Bummer that the magnet doesn't fit beneath the cover...
Your success is really making me want to try this out. It seems worth the effort for sure (at least for me). I'm going to start researching low profile subs to see if any free air versions are out there.
I have a question, too (maybe a stupid one): were you able to access and unscrew/remove the sub just by taking off the grill behind the back seat? Or do you have to tear apart other stuff as well?
It is just two clips and slide under the speaker cover. Seems like more because it is padded and tight on space. If you choose to take on the project let me know and I will help in anyway I can. I have considered flipping the sub and cutting out the underportion that lies in the trunk to resolve the cover not working. I am not so committed to cutting into the car itself yet though.
Right on, thanks for the info. I can see the tabs you're talking about now.
Regarding cutting your car, I agree with you that it may not be the best option, but hey, it's your car. If it were me, I would probably just get a shallow-mount sub and return the Kicker (if allowable) or chalk it up to a learning experience and view it as a sunk cost.
Thanks for the offer of your expertise. I think I'll look at sub options when I have time over the weekend and sort of go from there. I definitely wanna try it though. For $100 or so plus a few hours of time, it seems worthwhile to get some better bass!
EDIT: After looking at your photos, I wonder if a typical shallow-mount sub would fit either... It looks like the mounting depth of your Kicker (44CWCS84 CompC) is 3-7/8". Most shallow-mount subs are right around 2-3/4" mounting depth. Do you think that losing a little over an inch would be enough to allow the grill to fit over the sub?
Right on, thanks for the info. I can see the tabs you're talking about now.
Regarding cutting your car, I agree with you that it may not be the best option, but hey, it's your car. If it were me, I would probably just get a shallow-mount sub and return the Kicker (if allowable) or chalk it up to a learning experience and view it as a sunk cost.
Thanks for the offer of your expertise. I think I'll look at sub options when I have time over the weekend and sort of go from there. I definitely wanna try it though. For $100 or so plus a few hours of time, it seems worthwhile to get some better bass!
EDIT: After looking at your photos, I wonder if a typical shallow-mount sub would fit either... It looks like the mounting depth of your Kicker (44CWCS84 CompC) is 3-7/8". Most shallow-mount subs are right around 2-3/4" mounting depth. Do you think that losing a little over an inch would be enough to allow the grill to fit over the sub?
I was wondering the same thing about the shallow mount sub. If you were to try the shallow mount sub I would recommend maybe getting a quarter-inch thick piece of aluminum if you have the ability to cut it. Giving you just over an inch and a quarter drop I believe would be enough. I will get some measurements on it later and see just how far off of a clearance I am
Also, what's the maximum spacer thickness you think will work? Do you think a 1/2 inch would work, or would the speaker hit the metal at that point? There's a ton of 8" speaker spacers on ebay that would probably work.
Edit: I came up with a crazy idea, but I think it's pretty simple and effective (and barely anything would need to be modified). Here goes:
1. Remove stock subwoofer (leaving existing plastic subwoofer/speaker mount in place)
2. Use speaker spacer (see pic below) and use any subwoofer (regular or shallow mount, doesn't matter)
3. Attach speaker spacer to "roof" of trunk, directly below the stock subwoofer opening to trunk
4. Attach subwoofer to spacer and done!
This would detract very slightly from available truck space (due to the subwoofer extending downward from the trunk roof), but this wouldn't bother me much. The only adverse impact to the car would be a few screw holes in the metal trunk roof, which no one would ever see.
If your amp sub channel died out This will be a goof time to just add a dedicated aftermarket amp for the subwoofer . There supper cheap since these subs only push 150-300 watts rms . You will need a high low converted and tap into the rear speakers . I think its best to get a good 5 ch amp like rockford fosgate and just redo all your speakers etc . This will also be a good time to add an aftermarket headunit . I did this . You will need a good part of the weekend but man what a difference .
Here are the parts you need .
Headunit
3 - 18 ft rca
5 channel amp
2 or 4 gag amp kit
6.5 components for the front
6.5 2 way speakers for the rear
for the rear you will need speaker spacers there 10 a pair on ebay . You can get them in plastic or wood .
a 6 pack and some tools .
Also, what's the maximum spacer thickness you think will work? Do you think a 1/2 inch would work, or would the speaker hit the metal at that point? There's a ton of 8" speaker spacers on ebay that would probably work.
Edit: I came up with a crazy idea, but I think it's pretty simple and effective (and barely anything would need to be modified). Here goes:
1. Remove stock subwoofer (leaving existing plastic subwoofer/speaker mount in place)
2. Use speaker spacer (see pic below) and use any subwoofer (regular or shallow mount, doesn't matter)
3. Attach speaker spacer to "roof" of trunk, directly below the stock subwoofer opening to trunk
4. Attach subwoofer to spacer and done!
This would detract very slightly from available truck space (due to the subwoofer extending downward from the trunk roof), but this wouldn't bother me much. The only adverse impact to the car would be a few screw holes in the metal trunk roof, which no one would ever see.
Speaker spacer:
Spacer location:
I like the idea, my concern would be cutting out that speaker space in the trunk. I am just not committed enough to cut that out. I was pondering making new speaker deck covers from fiberglass and painting them to match the factory black exterior of the car.
as for the factory speaker cover clearance. As it sits right now I am looking to need about 1 5/8” clearance. A shallow mount with a spacer would work from the best I can gather.
If your amp sub channel died out This will be a goof time to just add a dedicated aftermarket amp for the subwoofer . There supper cheap since these subs only push 150-300 watts rms . You will need a high low converted and tap into the rear speakers . I think its best to get a good 5 ch amp like rockford fosgate and just redo all your speakers etc . This will also be a good time to add an aftermarket headunit . I did this . You will need a good part of the weekend but man what a difference .
Here are the parts you need .
Headunit
3 - 18 ft rca
5 channel amp
2 or 4 gag amp kit
6.5 components for the front
6.5 2 way speakers for the rear
for the rear you will need speaker spacers there 10 a pair on ebay . You can get them in plastic or wood .
a 6 pack and some tools .
i have an 8” kicker installed. Just a little compC 4 ohm dvc. I am considering adding a mono amplifier to kick it up some. From my understanding I can come off the factory amp outputs into a mono amplifier with speaker level inputs and then to the subwoofer itself. Is this the case? How will ohms be effected going from one amp to another?
as for a headunit. I see there are some that are semi plug and play like seicane. I was looking at a few on crutchfield though and did a chat with a rep, they don’t have a wiring harness that is plug and play or anything to retain steering wheel controls. There are people who I have that have alpine or seicane units and kept steering wheel controls. Familiar with this?
I like the idea, my concern would be cutting out that speaker space in the trunk. I am just not committed enough to cut that out. I was pondering making new speaker deck covers from fiberglass and painting them to match the factory black exterior of the car.
as for the factory speaker cover clearance. As it sits right now I am looking to need about 1 5/8” clearance. A shallow mount with a spacer would work from the best I can gather.
Thanks for the measurement- definitely helpful if I decide to go that route!
As for my idea: I'm not actually cutting anything. I'm just mounting the sub to the roof of the trunk (cone facing up, magnet facing down). So the only modification to the car is a few small screw holes into the metal of the trunk roof. I just thought that might be a way for us to use any sub we want without worrying about whether or not it will fit under the deck grill.
In any case, I decided to get a little crazy. I bought a 10" Pioneer sub with a really high sensitivity rating (93 db) and am going to mount it exactly as stated above. Wish me luck lol. I figure if it doesn't work for some reason, I can always get an 8" sub and I'm out less than $75.
I'll provide an update in a few weeks to let you know how it went.
Thanks for the measurement- definitely helpful if I decide to go that route!
As for my idea: I'm not actually cutting anything. I'm just mounting the sub to the roof of the trunk (cone facing up, magnet facing down). So the only modification to the car is a few small screw holes into the metal of the trunk roof. I just thought that might be a way for us to use any sub we want without worrying about whether or not it will fit under the deck grill.
In any case, I decided to get a little crazy. I bought a 10" Pioneer sub with a really high sensitivity rating (93 db) and am going to mount it exactly as stated above. Wish me luck lol. I figure if it doesn't work for some reason, I can always get an 8" sub and I'm out less than $75.
I'll provide an update in a few weeks to let you know how it went.
Thats awesome. I hope it works out well. What is the rms of the sub? Another person on this page posted some useful info and knows far more than I do so I asked about adding a mono amp with speaker level inputs to power just the subwoofer. Might be worth looking into for your application. And I think the 10 can be used there like you are hoping, might have to ditch the little tweeter there but I would not be concerned about that.
Thats awesome. I hope it works out well. What is the rms of the sub? Another person on this page posted some useful info and knows far more than I do so I asked about adding a mono amp with speaker level inputs to power just the subwoofer. Might be worth looking into for your application. And I think the 10 can be used there like you are hoping, might have to ditch the little tweeter there but I would not be concerned about that.
RMS is 350W. Model is Pioneer TS-W261D4 (https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...ries/TS-W261D4). On paper, it should work just fine with the stock amp given the sensitivity rating, especially given your positive experience with the Kicker that has a lower sensitivity rating. In practice, though, I have no idea if the tiny stock amp will be powerful enough to produce better/louder bass with the Pioneer than the stock sub.
Thanks for the suggestion regarding adding an amp, but I don't really want to hassle with that. I've installed quite a few systems years ago in my and my friend's cars, so I'm capable of doing the install. But for now, I'm content experimenting with aftermarket subs to see if I can achieve a tad better/louder bass than stock while not having to install an amp.
05-25-2019, 03:21 PM
