Saleemammar

My 2003 Mercedes CLK 270 CDI
since i bought it two years ago after couple of months the car started to lose power
i mean ‘horse power’ it becomes so weak i can barely accelerate and i need to turn it off and on and back normal rather tho the car on free way still manages to reach 150/160 km/h but takes it like 4 times more than usual ( when i lose power ) Plus the car still revs to 5000 rpm but still no speed ( its not safe mode )
full throttle half throttle its the same the car dont even react when i use kick down it shifts down accelerate again but still so bad it happens the most when i come to a stop not every stop maybe after 10/15 minutes drive
or when i drive on the same speed for couple of minutes ,
now since i straight piped my car ‘sounds awesome btw ‘ I noticed when i come to a stop and wait
the car suddenly changes sound and become like double louder and immediately no power
i restart it all normal again
and again i come to a stop car changes sound and no power
idk what to do on the scan dont show anything serious on the common rail section
Sorry for long text idk what to do its killing me... i guess you guys know this feeling
thank you for help!!!!

HETPE3B

What did you do so far in regards to this problem?
Fuel pressure measured when the vehicle is glitching and when not?
Fuel pump?
Fuel filter?
Turbo?
Mass airflow sensor?
cranksharft position sensors?
camshaft position sensors?
glitches when hot/cold?

Saleemammar

Changed the MAF sensor
didnt check the fuel pressure neither the turbo cuz i guess the turbo goes bad it goes bad u cant fix it by restarting the car because my turbo is mechanical not electronic
EGR turned off
changed or vacuum tubes for air
fuel filter maybe its my 6th because i changed it every 10k km
the other sensors are all ok
the glitch dont happen when the car is cold

optimusprime m1

Give battery good charge up .

Saleemammar

Its a new battery working perfect .

Fatz

Have you gotten any exhaust/cat converter related errors? I am admittedly kinda biased toward exhaust related things, but if you have pieces of a deteriorating cat clogging things up occasionally it could cause such a problem. When you did your straight piping did you remove the cats? If you still have your primary and secondary cats, pieces from the primary could lodge at the input to the secondary. With a straight pipe, if the secondary cats start to disintegrate the pieces will exit the tailpipe or get lodged at a bend at or before the tailpipe connection.

You should be able to look into the tailpipe to see if anything is lodged there, and you can run a clothes hanger into the tailpipe and feel for any obstruction.

Saleemammar

I removed the second cat thats the one under the car just before the muffler
but i didnt remove my first one i guess its directly after the turbo
so i have a straight pipe from my first cat till the end
i dont know some people told me maybe its a vacuum leak or the ‘thing under the turbo that controls pressure is not working properly’ sorry i dont know its name
because my turbo works on vacuum not electric
the error codes i got
P1403-032
P1470-016
thank you for answering

HETPE3B

Vacuum leak (if this is the case) should be an easy find with a smoker.
But why the issue arise only when the vehicle is warm?

Saleemammar

I guess because when the car is cold i dont force it so the turbo works on small boost
when its warm i start to overtake cars because where i live all streets are one way, after forcing the car and getting the turbo to full boost if i keep doing this ‘driving fast’ and giving the car alot of throttle all the time its ok till i get to a stoplight immediately no boost anymore

0zranvest

I had saab turbo that would go into limp mode (loss of power) at temperature. Turned out to be cracked fuel filler neck (line) which was causing low fuel pressure. I only noticed gas smell at start of winter when I began to garage the saab, no gas smell otherwise.
Just an FYI, even SAAB dealer could not diagnose the loss of power issue/ limp mode. Saab dealer replaced 2 turbos (under warranty) trying to troubleshoot the limp mode. Once I noticed the gas smell, my indie found/fixed the fuel leak and car ran great for a few years.
Hope this helps

dhurley

those codes are for low boost and an underperforming EGR. I bet you have a boost leak via a split intercooler pipe.

optimusprime m1

Turb0 peoblem and iff you keep driving it in this condition it will blow a hole in the pistons