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Car is 2004 CLK 320 Convertible. My girlfriend was driving it, and said she tried putting it in park, but the car continued to roll like it was in neutral. She shut off the car and put the parking brake on, but now it doesn't start. Battery is good, the panel lights up when I turn ACC on, but it doesn't crank at all when turning the key. The gear indicator on the dash says "P", yet it still rolls like it's in neutral. With the key on, I was able to press the brake and move the shifter up and down, between R, N, 3, 2, 1 etc and it registers on the dash with each change. I brought it back to "P" and it just doesn't start, and still rolls until I put the parking brake on. Any ideas?
Craze idea :
Your transmission linkage popped-out from shifter assembly and know when you move shifter it doesn't physically put transmission in Park (or any other modes). It shows your P on dashboard because shifter is in P mode, but transmission still in D or N and since TCU (transmission control unit) knows that transmission is in D or N it doesn't allow ECU to crank the engine. Based on practical knowledge
How to test this theory:
1. Electronically. Find a scan tool which can read mercedes modules (e.g. icarsoft mb ii, MB SDS) and check "current values" of TCU and ESM (electronic selector module). If "selected gear" (I don't remember exact name of the parameter) values are different than i'm right
2. Mechanically. Remove shifter bezel and unscrew 3 bolts holding the shifter assembly. It should be enough space to see whether transmission linkage connected or not.
How to test this theory:
1. Electronically. Find a scan tool which can read mercedes modules (e.g. icarsoft mb ii, MB SDS) and check "current values" of TCU and ESM (electronic selector module). If "selected gear" (I don't remember exact name of the parameter) values are different than i'm right
2. Mechanically. Remove shifter bezel and unscrew 3 bolts holding the shifter assembly. It should be enough space to see whether transmission linkage connected or not.
Would I be able to test this electronically with a bluetooth/usb OBD diagnostic scanner?
Would I be able to test this electronically with a bluetooth/usb OBD diagnostic scanner?
Most of simple scanners can't read mercedes modules, only general OBD2 error. If you going to keep this car I'd highly recommend to buy icarsoft mb ii ($140 on Amazon)
Okay, I may order that unit. In the meantime, I'll try your 2nd suggestion by checking mechanically. Once I remove the 3 bolts holding the shifter assembly, what exactly do I look for? If I see the transmission linkage is not connected, is this an easy fix?
Okay, I may order that unit. In the meantime, I'll try your 2nd suggestion by checking the mechanically. Once I remove the 3 bolts holding the shifter assembly, what exactly do I look for? If I see the transmission linkage is not connected, is this an easy fix?
If it's not connected you simple put linkage pin (see #1 on previous photo) into the hole in the shifter lever (see attached photo) and secure it with snap ring. If the snap ring is missing I can find a part # for you.
Using the scanner I went to Diagnose -> Transmission -> Actual Values -> Upshift and Downshift, and there it says both the 'selected' and 'actual' gears read P. When I shift down to Reverse it says R selected and N actual. When shift down to Drive it says D selected and N actual (I'm assuming because car is off and transmission never shifted out of Neutral). When I shift back up to park it says P selected and P actual. Engine still doesn't crank.
Does the car still rolls when you put it in P?
Are the error codes in the TCU?
Car still rolls in park. I'm getting four errors under transmission which I'm attaching as pictures to this post. I'll also list them here:
(P220A) The speed comparison of Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 is implausible.
(P2561) The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping. (2. gear)
(P2600) The voltage supply of circuit 87 has undervoltage.
(P2562) The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping. (3. gear)
Did you check actual values in ESM (Electronic Selector Module)?
Also what says Transmission -> Actual Values -> Start Operation ?
Actual values in ESM are attached to this post.
Start Operation says:
Y3/6s1 (Starter lockout contact): CLOSED
Selected gear by means of selector lever (CAN): P
It will more than likely be the bush on the linkage worn, get under the car and manually shift he transmission into park, then try to start, if this works then its a linkage problem.
The shifter inside the car you can shift as much as you like but it will be stuck between Reverse and Park when in Park as the bush being worn will not allow it to go all the way into park, the transmission conductor plate knows its not in park therefore inhibiting the start process, the shifter is still registering that you are shifting gears with the scanner, but the conductor plate is not in sync with what the shifter is saying.
The bush can be purchased from the dealer or you can make 1.
It will more than likely be the bush on the linkage worn, get under the car and manually shift he transmission into park, then try to start, if this works then its a linkage problem.
The shifter inside the car you can shift as much as you like but it will be stuck between Reverse and Park when in Park as the bush being worn will not allow it to go all the way into park, the transmission conductor plate knows its not in park therefore inhibiting the start process, the shifter is still registering that you are shifting gears with the scanner, but the conductor plate is not in sync with what the shifter is saying.
The bush can be purchased from the dealer or you can make 1.
You grab the shifter linkage and move it by hand, make sure the car is on stands, dont rely on a jack.
You might have to take off a large plastic shield that covers the underneath of the transmission to see the linkage, once you can see the transmission you will see on the left side a linkage that sits upright and has a rod going rear to the shifter in the car, if you push this to the rear of the car it will click into park, you should then be able to start the car.
You will also see that there is a bush in the linkage, they have 1 at both ends and they do wear making the shift more loose until it just wont go that little bit needed for it to lock into park.
From the above pictures here is 1 of the bushes, the other is on the small linkage on the transmission.
Last edited by prktkljokr; 12-26-2019 at 09:45 PM.
Here are 2 things:
1. "Starter lockout contact: CLOSED " means that ECU is not allowing SAM to turn the engine.
2. Parking lock is mechanical. Since you car rolls in P it means that transmission is not really in P.
So the simplest explanation of those two things is that the linkage from shifter to transmission is not connected or as prktkljokr suggested the bushing on the linkage is worn which doesn't allow to fully engage P. Try what I suggested in my second post: "Remove shifter bezel and unscrew 3 bolts holding the shifter assembly. It should be enough space to see whether transmission linkage connected or not."
BTW those errors you mentioned usually an indicator that you have a faulty conductor plate or you have leaking transmission connector and transmission oil got into the TCU.
I removed the 3 bolts from the shifter assembly, however I cant seem to remove it without removing the center console as well (which I don't know how do yet).
BUT, I think I found the problem. I got under the car and found the linkage disconnected. I think its still connected from the shifter arm, however disconnected from the transmission. Heres a picture of the part thats disconnected.
Red is the part of the rod thats disconnected, green is is attachment point where I think it came from.
In the picture, the red circled rod is currently shifted into the park position, closer to the back of the car. When I shift the knob down to neutral or drive, the rod moves closer to the green circle (front of the car).
With my current jack setup, its a very low hanging so space is tight and difficult to work with. Unless I can bring it into a shop, but Im trying to save money if it's an easy enough fix. Heres also a picture of the shifter assembly that Im having difficult removing:
Thank you. Can you give an amateur mechanic as myself quick instructions on how to replace the clip? Using the image I provided, does the red circle slide into the hole in the green circle? Like behind it and through the hole? And then use the clip to hold it in place?
I did it! I was able to reconnect the shifter and everything works again. Thank you everyone that helped me through this!! This site and its members are truly invaluable.
Edit: Just realized I reconnected the rod without a bushing.. Hopefully that wont bite me in the rear later on down the road (literally and figuratively)!
12-10-2019, 03:09 AM
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