What’s interesting is when I got a metal one which got some good recommendation and fit really well I know what you’re talking about. There are some cheap ones out there. It moves freely. What’s troubling is when I put it into the engine and I tried to move it. It was extremely stiff so I might have to revisit it. It’s on my sons car at college.

So far no check engine lights in the car is running great. As a sidenote, before I get to my story, people should look too as I was getting 16 miles to the gallon after I put in my new intake manifold I was getting 21 miles to the gallon.

So the famous device for the intake has cracked and I did this before with my other 209 I have two. I change the entire manifold and I checked the other day and of course that’s broken so I guess they only last like two or three years, but my check engine light on my vehicle that I drive through check engine light and sure enough mine broke.

Check engine light only came on two more times if I really really get on it but if I drive, normally, no check engine, light performance is all there if I punch it performance is all there.

So I bother fixing something is my question to everyone I know my other vehicle when the arm broke check engine light would stay on or come on all the time, but for some reason now both vehicles both arms are broken. No check engine lights no performance issues. Am I missing out on gas mileage? I don’t know that’s why I’m here. Gas mileage hasn’t really seem to have changed.

 

WOW NOT ONE ANSWER. YIKES

I bought a replacement intake for 90.00 and it is fine now

 

There are metal repair kits for the linkage, why didn't you replace the broken crank with one of these.

Much cheaper and longer lasting than the plastic crank.

Avoid the cheapy cheap ones, as they can stick.

 

I have two vehicles, exactly, alike ones and 06 and ones. 09. The 06 I just changed the lever because it was only $12 gasket was $10.

I bought the intake really cheap just in case one of the vacuums or one of those devices were broken. So for $85 plus tax it was a bargain.

Plus it had over 168,000 miles. I think it’s time for an intake.

I corrected my issue by the way I loaded the fuel lines and rails with injector cleaner so when I first started it up the first 12 ounces would be pure, carburetor spray to clean the injectors

I think that the settings off and so what I did was I did a throttle position sensor reset

You put the key on for at least four minutes, then turn off the car and that resets it

So again, since I loaded the lines with carburetor spray to clean the injectors, because that would hit the injectors for the first 20 seconds that threw everything off but now it’s corrected

 

You know I got an interesting story so I went to repair my intake that I removed and I bought one of those levers in the US. They’re only like $15 to maybe $20 and guess what it was a **** fit.

A lot of people complain about that that these arms that you buy the ***** are a little bit too wide and what happens is when you push them into the levers they seize the flaps up because it’s got to actually rotate inside where you push the ball into. And so you’re screwed now because you’ve taken it all apart that you’re forced to use that in order to fix it you can file it down a bit but it’s much easier to just install the entire intake.

Least you know, you don’t have to worry about having to customize the what I call ***** that push into the plastic levers

 

Dont buy the cheap rubbish. I used the one I linked to, and it was a perfect fit.

 

I do see the link that shows me the arms that you bought and where you bought them from because I bought another set from eBay $10 because I only really needed the center bracket made out of metal the links that go from that bracket to the flapper arms I filed down, but it turns out that the nut that locks it came loose. So then I had to put Loctite on it to keep the nuts from coming off even though they’re the ones with plastic in them design not to get loose.

I saw the one you posted for over $100 and it turns out that I bought a set for $10 and you just have to file down the round *****. And I save $90. I appreciate that but there’s no way I’m gonna spend that kind of money just for an arm.

 

I do want to admit all the senior member is 1000% correct a lot of us go out running to buy a new intake and people say don’t bother with the linkage but that’s wrong. Many of the intakes you’ll buy on the Internet have the plastic bracket that supports the other two arms. well guess what after only 12 days after I made these posts that piece of plastic broke I had to purchase a bracket on eBay so I can use the centerpiece only and repair it. So the result is I bought an intake manifold only to repair it again, so it is smart. Do not waste your time purchasing an intake if it has a plastic center bracket just buy the bracket instead. The senior member in this post is correct purchase a decent bracket if you purchase brackets with screws put Loctite and file the thread so they can’t get loose. My other recommendation is you’re gonna have to file down the ***** for some reason these cheap Chinese garbage products for 15 bucks aren’t precise at all but with a little effort and a few minutes of filing evenly, the ***** will snap in perfectly. If you over file it you’ve just blown $15 no real big deal
Another trick is you can file down your old brackets and the screwdriver pry them off and then screw them into the new brackets that you bought and you’ll know that those ***** are perfect fit because they were on the manifold before.