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Intake Manifold Tumbler Flap

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Old 06-01-2024, 01:21 PM
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Intake Manifold Tumbler Flap

So after getting my camshaft magnet/solenoids updated to the 2nd updated version, when I read my vehicle codes I got a stored code 0522 / P2006 Diagnosis of tumble flap 'Intake manifold': Open circuit of sensor lines / Tumble flap shafts stick in the non-actuated position. So I checked my intake manifold area on the front where the tumbler flaps and actuators are and I noticed a lot of dried-up oil. So I cleaned up as much as could get in there and tested the lever manually and it's working properly and nothing is broken. So after doing this I start driving and immediately notice a difference in the way the car pulls, much smoother and just feels like all the power is back. So after about a couple of weeks was doing some stuff on the engine area again and then noticed the car was running off once more (I know cause it feels like the car is dragging a bit and there's hiccups sometimes when getting on the throttle). I played with the lever again and it fixed the issue once more. Not sure what the issue is as all the vacuum lines and the linkage itself are not broken. As I said I just saw a lot of oil there on the front face of the intake manifold so not sure where it's coming from. Anyone else experience this issue without the linkage being broken?
Old 06-01-2024, 02:30 PM
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Anyone ever tried using this:

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/pro...r-p000072.html
Old 06-01-2024, 07:51 PM
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As I was doing my MAF and throttle body cleaning, I noticed a good amount of dried up oil around the crankcase breather cover as well as the driver side expansion plug (The passenger side expansion plug was mostly clean as well as the larger engine vacuum pump plug on the driver side). I cleaned both and noticed on the crankcase breather cover as well as the passenger side cam plug there is some sort of rubber sealant used at some point around them. I'm planning on changing the cover and drip pan inside, but am curious if anyone else has this rubber around those parts.

Last edited by gaazmon; 06-01-2024 at 07:53 PM.
Old 06-02-2024, 11:40 PM
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Gaazmon, The use of some sort of sealant is not specified in the WIS I'm pretty sure. I've done many repair / replacements on my M272 350 engine (all the systems you are talking about are the same as yours). I imagine the person wasn't confident of the mating surfaces and took the silicon approach. Replacing the crankcase breather pipes, filter, centrifuge etc., plus the cam plugs and solenoids is a relatively easy and inexpensive job to get peace of mind. With regard to the manifold, I changed out mine for a new one when I started to get flap actuator related codes. I figured it was safer given the ageing out of plastics (flaps etc.) in such a temperature variant environment. I's not a hard job for a reasonable DIY-er. There are several threads with helpful tips and pictures in this forum.
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Old 06-06-2024, 03:44 PM
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I'm surprised as well. I've never seen that before. It seems to run quite a ways along the valve cover as well, which is odd considering these M272/M273 engines don't have valve cover gaskets like on the M112/M113. They use a seal from the factory instead, but I doubt the factory seal would be this messy from what I can tell (The drivers side is quite clean in comparison).

So I replaced the passenger side oil separator and the cover as well as the two smaller extension plugs on both sides of the engine. As could be seen, it had a black layer around the rim of the outside of the separator. The internal gasket on the cover seems fine, but the outer gasket is quite loose after removal.

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