Chappy

My CLK isn't the fastest.

My 109.00 trap was with stock 17s and OE-sized Michelin 245/40-17s on the rear. I had 1/2 tank of fuel and even had the spare in the trunk. I know, I should have taken crap out of the trunk. I had the stock air filters that were in the car when I bought it new.

There was a member who posted a 109.01 within a week or two of my run (I was crushed lol...). He lived in Maryland IIRC. I've also raced Zal at No Problem Raceway in Louisiana on several runs a couple years ago and he edged me out by .1 sec and 1mph on the trap on every run.

According to The Star magazine article from 2000, they state that MB actually quoted 'factory' numbers for the W208/55 in the 1/4 mile - for the first time ever with any Mercedes-Benz. The time listed was 13.3 @ 109.8 - very believeable numbers since my 13.349 @ 109.00 is right on par with that. Their 'official' 0-60 was 4.89 seconds.

A buddy who's father was a semi-pro drag racer commented to me (via email) that based on my CLKs weight and performance at the track, his calculations are that I'm pushing 360-365 crank hp, slightly over what the factory rating is of 342.

To the OP....sure you don't have a 100-shot set up on your CLK??

Jons95c36amg

Well I have another dyno sheet # which read 337hp on Dyno D. Got that # when the car was cooler.

Chappy

You prolly got one of the old F1 Safety cars!

Chappy

Here's something to play with:

http://www.dragtimes.com/drag-racing...tors-tools.php

AMS Performance

Then that is definitely crank numbers. Dyno operator gave you crank numbers, not wheel numbers (not right of him to do so). Ask them to redyno the car and give you the raw data this time with no correction. 337 is exactly where these W208 CLK55s dyno at the crank typically, so thats dead on accurate for crank numbers.

DarrenCT

dyno operator= FAIL

jturkel

BlackOnBlackCLK

My 2001 CLK55 with headers exhaust and a cold air intake with stock tune only put 300hp 355tq to the wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno...... But it runs 12.3@ 113.6!!!!

jturkel

wow....what kind of 60' are you pulling

BlackOnBlackCLK

1.8

DarrenCT

seriously.... now that is a great time/ MPH.......

DarrenCT

FTW......

AMS Performance

300HP is much more believable on DD with the setup mentioned since headers do unlock the most power (typically 20HP+ on DD dyno), so that's entirely realistic, but I wonder why your torque gap is so much greater than it should be. Typically HP & TQ should be separated by typically 30 points, but 55... that's a big gap. Where is your peak torque occuring at (what rpm). I'd love to see the dyno sheet if you have it. If the weather is cold enough then that sounds possible if you get full traction off the line. With the right NA mods and with enough weight reduction I wouldn't be surprised if somebody jumped into the 11.9 range.

Thericker

This latest crop of Dyno Dynamics #'s are totally reCockulous! This must be the 5th-6th MBW'er to come back here bragging/gushing over obvious improperly set Dyno parameters or/and confusing CHP #'s for WHP...

There's an E55 W211 w/ (2) recent Dyno's, Dynodynamics & Dynojet on Bone Stocker reporting 480+RWHP 520+RWTO both Dyno's are only a few HP-TQ apart LOL...

Point to be taken here, do some solid research on your car & what other comparable STOCK/modded models put to the rear wheels, then do a little rational thinking before "Blowing your bags" thinking/posting you have the fabled "Factory Beast"

AMS Performance

I agree, but a lot of it isn't the customers fault. DD shop owners are getting alot of pressure to artificially inflate their dyno numbers due to peer pressure from the Dynojet junkies. And if their dyno reports low numbers they lose business, which is ridiculous, but some actually do that. The beauty of DD dynos is that they read exactly what they should read b/c thats exactly what the car makes on the road. In addition, the shape of the power curve is much more accurate than dynojet curves which peak higher then have a larger drop off post peak.

The whole purpose of DD is to allow it to give you the raw data with as little adjustment as possible. It is important to make sure you go to a reputable shop that won't manipulate the #s. DD is the most accurate loading dyno as long as the dyno operator doesn't purposely try and manipulate the numbers to emulate crank or dynojet numbers (thats true of any dyno in general including dynojets & etc). Then that defeats the entire purpose of going to the dyno in the first place. You might as well use your Iphone w/ Dynolicious or a Gtech at that point . If you want fudged high numbers, just go dyno on a dynojet and be done with it haha. If you want REAL tuning to compare baseline to modded results under real world load conditions ... DD is the way to go.

From what I have seen personally on properly setup DD dynos. Every AMG dynos +/- 5HP of its factory rating @ 22% drivetrain loss like clockwork, which shows AMGs consistency (Much better than ford mustangs & other domestics which can vary wildly from factory numbers & etc). This thread proves that alone, two different W208 CLK55s making exactly 263HP at the wheels bone stock (within 1 HP of each other). There are no real "factory monsters" AMGs are made with such precision that they rarely deviate from their factory specs from one example to another. That doesn't mean that OEM specs aren't conservative for an entire model line (since AMG typically sand bags their acceleration numbers on purpose). However, from invididual model to model, there is very little variation typically. Very few examples venture outside 2-3 standard deviations (if that, assuming normal bell curve distribution).

With that said, it is important to do research on which dyno you chose to be your official dyno from beginning to end, and continually use that dyno over and over again to analyze both before & after results to keep them as consistent as possible.

BlackOnBlackCLK

heres the dyno sheets.... IIRC the temps were in the 80's

Pauljay

I had my car dynoed the other week. I thought my numbers were low for the mods done but now I think they could be right.

Here's the graph with Crank hp:

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1247864374

The mods done are:

BMC air filters
Schrick cams
Res delete/Catalytic converters delete
ECU remap
X-pipe into Y-pipe to quieten the exhaust (which gave a little needed back pressure)
2.5in straight pipe to rear box

It was 31c outside the car has done 33,000mi and needed an oil change.

A week after the remap and dyno, the car is pulling harder so maybe a little more power made after the car has adjusted.

I'm taking the car back to get proper figures because the dyno operator couldn't download the data.
I asked him for at the wheel hp and torque lbs/ft. All he emailed me was the above sheet!

Do you guys think the numbers are good?

The car was dynoed in 3rd gear and in winter mode!(don't know why winter mode!)

AMS Performance

The shape of the curve looks right but for some reason he started way later in the power band, he only measured a narrow portion of the power band. You should be able to measure 3500rpm - 6000rpm on the stock car. So those numbers seem to be accurate but still they should have given you more rpms to work with.

AMS Performance

I guess this is turning into a dyno checkup thread. I feel like a doctor viewing patients non stop. Everyone is asking me to check their CLK55 to turn & cough lol .

on a more serious note, your redlines are not matching up at all, The graph shows your car revving to 6700-6800 which is most likely not the case since the most these M113s will typically be pushed is 6400rpm. Watch your redline and see exactly where the car upshifts into the next gear ***(it should line up on the dyno exactly to that same rpm, if not then the gearing settings were incorrectly entered by the dyno operator, so everyone take note of this no matter what dyno you dyno on, redlines should always match up)***.

Also, with shrick cams you would think your top end would be much stronger but the power again drops off quick, making me think they also gave you crank numbers instead of wheel numbers. It could also be your ECU didn't have enough time to adapt on the top end of the power band which usually takes the longest to adapt compared to lower portions of the rpm band. Your headers are definitely restricting your top end and your cams may be out flowing your stock manifolds which explains the sharp drop off in power post peak. Contact us for more details if you need a set.

370HP is about right for a car with cams & software & cat delete at 80F, although the numbers could be a bit higher (most likely due to restrictive stock exhaust manifolds). Crank numbers seem to add up 370HP & 402 torque (32 point differential so that is right in line with what they should be). Ask them to redyno and make sure the redlines match up so the data is more accurate, tell them to give you both raw wheel data & crank (I'd love to see what their actual drivetrain loss conversion factor is, it may be understated).

Hope that helps,
~AMS~

neilbo75

[QUOTE=AMS

with that said... the W208 CLK55s are deceptively quick and with the right NA mods they can beat new M3s & some of the heavier compressor AMGs (in some cases with ease).

Hope that helps.
~AMS~[/QUOTE]

Well, in my case, the "right" NA mods are shaping up to be the following:
-ECU and headers (Kleemann)
-LSD (Quaife)
-coilovers (KW V2)
-8.5 x 18 F and 10x18 R rims with wider, sticky tires (probably 235/265 - leaning towards Toyo R888s)

The work is scheduled to begin in a week's time at Kevin Bird's shop in the UK.

AMS Performance

Not a bad setup, Although most off the shelf ECU tunes don't really do much, you have to go with a much more aggressive software tune to really get any significant results, just get the most aggressive ECU tune you can b/c these W208 55s are way too detuned from the factory. Don't for get high flow 2nd cats & pulley to unlock even more of the engines power.

235/265 is the best tire setup in order to not disrupt the handling balance F/R. If you start running 275s in rear with 235s up front you being to dial in more understeer. Just make sure you get a very sticky tire like a Dunlap Z1.

jturkel

+1....and if you arent using LTs, then high flow/race primary cats attached to shorty headers.

da_guitarist

I have filters, removed secondary cats and resonator, and eisenmann muffler. Looking to get kleemann headers and an ecu tune! then i wanna see how my dyno looks! Guess i'll have 0 cats then. oops.

AMS Performance

you naughty boy ,

Btw... I hope you don't drive with your windows down b/c the fumes at stop lights may be pretty bad, enough to make you gag.

Jons95c36amg

Damn *****! I'm going back! Anyway my car still surprises me!