My stock 02 Clk55 on Dyno Dynamics!
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From: living in Paris, France and San Diego ...
2002 CLK 55 AMG Coupé
Not a bad setup, Although most off the shelf ECU tunes don't really do much, you have to go with a much more aggressive software tune to really get any significant results, just get the most aggressive ECU tune you can b/c these W208 55s are way too detuned from the factory. Don't for get high flow 2nd cats & pulley to unlock even more of the engines power.
235/265 is the best tire setup in order to not disrupt the handling balance F/R. If you start running 275s in rear with 235s up front you being to dial in more understeer. Just make sure you get a very sticky tire like a Dunlap Z1.
235/265 is the best tire setup in order to not disrupt the handling balance F/R. If you start running 275s in rear with 235s up front you being to dial in more understeer. Just make sure you get a very sticky tire like a Dunlap Z1.
I have ruled out the pulley because I have a big ol' Brax amplifier in the trunk driving Focal Utopia speakers and so I don't want to underdrive the alternator. I will keep the high flow 2nd cats in mind - I might first let the factory cats wear out.
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From: Surrey, England.
'00 Mercedes 430/55 clk cabriolet
AMS
Thanks for the advice and input.
(I sent you a PM a couple of days ago asking about RHD headers).
I'm definately getting headers and pulley to maximise the hp.
I'll post the figures again once the work has been done. Hopefully I'll make another 25hp. I'm trying to get to 400hp crank.
Thanks for the advice and input.
(I sent you a PM a couple of days ago asking about RHD headers).
I'm definately getting headers and pulley to maximise the hp.
I'll post the figures again once the work has been done. Hopefully I'll make another 25hp. I'm trying to get to 400hp crank.
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From: Atlanta
Current: AMG GT-C. Sold: 01 CLK55, 00 ML55, 01 ML55, 06 E55
Not a bad setup, Although most off the shelf ECU tunes don't really do much, you have to go with a much more aggressive software tune to really get any significant results, just get the most aggressive ECU tune you can b/c these W208 55s are way too detuned from the factory. Don't for get high flow 2nd cats & pulley to unlock even more of the engines power.
235/265 is the best tire setup in order to not disrupt the handling balance F/R. If you start running 275s in rear with 235s up front you being to dial in more understeer. Just make sure you get a very sticky tire like a Dunlap Z1.
235/265 is the best tire setup in order to not disrupt the handling balance F/R. If you start running 275s in rear with 235s up front you being to dial in more understeer. Just make sure you get a very sticky tire like a Dunlap Z1.
When you say 235/265 is the best setup, shouldn't that depend on how much power is at the rear wheels?
IE, 235/265 might be great for 300whp, but I would think as you get closer to 325 or 330whp, maybe a 275 rear tire might help more w/ traction and potential oversteer. Does that make sense?
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AMG
Thanks for the advice.
I have ruled out the pulley because I have a big ol' Brax amplifier in the trunk driving Focal Utopia speakers and so I don't want to underdrive the alternator. I will keep the high flow 2nd cats in mind - I might first let the factory cats wear out.
I have ruled out the pulley because I have a big ol' Brax amplifier in the trunk driving Focal Utopia speakers and so I don't want to underdrive the alternator. I will keep the high flow 2nd cats in mind - I might first let the factory cats wear out.
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AMG
When you say 235/265 is the best setup, shouldn't that depend on how much power is at the rear wheels?
IE, 235/265 might be great for 300whp, but I would think as you get closer to 325 or 330whp, maybe a 275 rear tire might help more w/ traction and potential oversteer. Does that make sense?
IE, 235/265 might be great for 300whp, but I would think as you get closer to 325 or 330whp, maybe a 275 rear tire might help more w/ traction and potential oversteer. Does that make sense?
.
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From: living in Paris, France and San Diego ...
2002 CLK 55 AMG Coupé
I thought underdriving was how modified pulleys "made" extra HP. If yours don't work that way, how do they improve performance?
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AMG
Mass reduction is where 85% of the gains are to be had. Underdriving doesn't really do that much and it requires too many sacrifices to achieve its minimal narrow gains.
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From: Hotlanta
AMG
Well, in my case, the "right" NA mods are shaping up to be the following:
-ECU and headers (Kleemann)
-LSD (Quaife)
-coilovers (KW V2)
-8.5 x 18 F and 10x18 R rims with wider, sticky tires (probably 235/265 - leaning towards Toyo R888s)
The work is scheduled to begin in a week's time at Kevin Bird's shop in the UK.
-ECU and headers (Kleemann)
-LSD (Quaife)
-coilovers (KW V2)
-8.5 x 18 F and 10x18 R rims with wider, sticky tires (probably 235/265 - leaning towards Toyo R888s)
The work is scheduled to begin in a week's time at Kevin Bird's shop in the UK.
Neilbo,
I'll be very interested in your feedback regarding the Quaife ATB - will yours be modified? I didn't think they offered a 'drop in' unit due to the attachment point for the axles??
....and your impressions with the KW V2s.!!
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From: living in Paris, France and San Diego ...
2002 CLK 55 AMG Coupé
Chappy -
If all goes well, I can give you the best possible feedback in about six weeks- after having again driven Nurburgring with the AMG Driving Academy!
Having followed this board for a few years now, my "armchair" conclusion is that the Quaife ATB LSD is the single best mod you can do for a CLK AMG. Traction, not HP, is what we really need. I read an article in the UK-based Mercedes Enthusiast magazine a while back that gushed over the difference it makes on practically any big-engined modern Mercedes. The featured shop was Kevin Bird's. BirdsAuto's website talks up the Quaife quite well (albeit slanted towards BMWs). So I figure I've come to the right place.
Kevin was less enthusiastic about the KW coilovers, having had some dubious experiences putting them on a BMW. But they are the consensus choice, and the supplier supports our car, so it gets the nod.
Time will tell ....
If all goes well, I can give you the best possible feedback in about six weeks- after having again driven Nurburgring with the AMG Driving Academy!
Having followed this board for a few years now, my "armchair" conclusion is that the Quaife ATB LSD is the single best mod you can do for a CLK AMG. Traction, not HP, is what we really need. I read an article in the UK-based Mercedes Enthusiast magazine a while back that gushed over the difference it makes on practically any big-engined modern Mercedes. The featured shop was Kevin Bird's. BirdsAuto's website talks up the Quaife quite well (albeit slanted towards BMWs). So I figure I've come to the right place.
Kevin was less enthusiastic about the KW coilovers, having had some dubious experiences putting them on a BMW. But they are the consensus choice, and the supplier supports our car, so it gets the nod.
Time will tell ....
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From: Philadelphia area
2001 clk55 AMG
Quaife does make a drop in unit for the our cars, I just put one in blackbenzz car about 6 months ago.... I didnt have to modify anything
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From: Hotlanta
AMG
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C43/55,2k11 Volvo S60 T6AWD,2k Audi B5 S4,95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD 500+awhp
If I dyno my car in third gear the #'s would be ridiculously high. 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio gear that is the most common gear EVERYONE dynos their car in.
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95 Audi urS6 Quattro
OH Jeez! Jon,Dynoing the car in third gear will always give higher #'s. Most of us here dyno our cars in 4th gear not third. I still make your #'s in fourth gear. If I dyno my car in third gear the #'s would be ridiculously high. 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio gear that is the most common gear EVERYONE dynos their car in.
If I dyno my car in third gear the #'s would be ridiculously high. 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio gear that is the most common gear EVERYONE dynos their car in.
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AMG
Actually on Dyno Dynamics, difference between 3rd and 4th gear is minimal. Usually no more than 5HP on cars in this power range (if you have high HP supra that's a different story, but on AMGs rarely makes a big diff, but yes technically you should always dyno 1:1 if you can). On dynojet the difference can be much more drastic b/c of the inertia roller design vs. loading dyno design.
Either way, the results aren't bad, they are right on par with where the car should be normally for a car of the age. A minor tuneup will probably make up the difference and maybe even surpass stock spec. Very few cars run at 100% simply due to lack of proper scheduled maintenance so typically being down 2-5HP is not uncommon.
Either way, the results aren't bad, they are right on par with where the car should be normally for a car of the age. A minor tuneup will probably make up the difference and maybe even surpass stock spec. Very few cars run at 100% simply due to lack of proper scheduled maintenance so typically being down 2-5HP is not uncommon.
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From: City with Tall buildings!
C43/55,2k11 Volvo S60 T6AWD,2k Audi B5 S4,95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD 500+awhp
Actually on Dyno Dynamics, difference between 3rd and 4th gear is minimal. Usually no more than 5HP on cars in this power range (if you have high HP supra that's a different story, but on AMGs rarely makes a big diff, but yes technically you should always dyno 1:1 if you can). On dynojet the difference can be much more drastic b/c of the inertia roller design vs. loading dyno design.
Either way, the results aren't bad, they are right on par with where the car should be normally for a car of the age. A minor tuneup will probably make up the difference and maybe even surpass stock spec. Very few cars run at 100% simply due to lack of proper scheduled maintenance so typically being down 2-5HP is not uncommon.
Either way, the results aren't bad, they are right on par with where the car should be normally for a car of the age. A minor tuneup will probably make up the difference and maybe even surpass stock spec. Very few cars run at 100% simply due to lack of proper scheduled maintenance so typically being down 2-5HP is not uncommon.
Bottom line is 4th gear is the gear to dyno in.
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AMG
Well from experience on M113 AMG V8s its roughly 5HP on both 210 & 208 AMGs. Maybe on might higher wHP cars such as the 65s & modded 55s the gap may grow but the % change is still roughly the same. Correct, 4th gear is best gear on the 722.6. 7speeds are a different story.
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From: The city that never sleeps
ML320, Looking for my S4
Lol, I was getting worried Jon. I havent seen any " I killed Cylinder Head's barbie scooter on my way to work" threads lately, I was getting worried that you had a tragic street racing related accident. But it seems all is back to normal, the bomb is blowing up in your face. I'll check back in a few days to laugh at newer posts.
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From: San Jose, CA
Charger SRT-8
OH Jeez! Jon,Dynoing the car in third gear will always give higher #'s. Most of us here dyno our cars in 4th gear not third. I still make your #'s in fourth gear. If I dyno my car in third gear the #'s would be ridiculously high. 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio gear that is the most common gear EVERYONE dynos their car in.
If I dyno my car in third gear the #'s would be ridiculously high. 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio gear that is the most common gear EVERYONE dynos their car in.
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AMG
No, WITH lockup its still 22% on dyno dynamics, thats how much loss there is on the loading dynos. On dynojet yes its roughly 18%, but DD is a totally different dyno and doesn't follow the same rules.
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From: Hotlanta
AMG
Chappy -
If all goes well, I can give you the best possible feedback in about six weeks- after having again driven Nurburgring with the AMG Driving Academy!
Having followed this board for a few years now, my "armchair" conclusion is that the Quaife ATB LSD is the single best mod you can do for a CLK AMG. Traction, not HP, is what we really need. I read an article in the UK-based Mercedes Enthusiast magazine a while back that gushed over the difference it makes on practically any big-engined modern Mercedes. The featured shop was Kevin Bird's. BirdsAuto's website talks up the Quaife quite well (albeit slanted towards BMWs). So I figure I've come to the right place.
Kevin was less enthusiastic about the KW coilovers, having had some dubious experiences putting them on a BMW. But they are the consensus choice, and the supplier supports our car, so it gets the nod.
Time will tell ....
If all goes well, I can give you the best possible feedback in about six weeks- after having again driven Nurburgring with the AMG Driving Academy!
Having followed this board for a few years now, my "armchair" conclusion is that the Quaife ATB LSD is the single best mod you can do for a CLK AMG. Traction, not HP, is what we really need. I read an article in the UK-based Mercedes Enthusiast magazine a while back that gushed over the difference it makes on practically any big-engined modern Mercedes. The featured shop was Kevin Bird's. BirdsAuto's website talks up the Quaife quite well (albeit slanted towards BMWs). So I figure I've come to the right place.
Kevin was less enthusiastic about the KW coilovers, having had some dubious experiences putting them on a BMW. But they are the consensus choice, and the supplier supports our car, so it gets the nod.
Time will tell ....
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2002 CL500 to CL55 conversion
Sorry to dig up an old thread
does anybody know anything about those pulley pieces that were mentioned in this thread? Can they still be found? Maybe from a different mercedes/Chrysler?
does anybody know anything about those pulley pieces that were mentioned in this thread? Can they still be found? Maybe from a different mercedes/Chrysler?
