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2001 CLK55. 95K Owned for almost a month and this is what I know so far.
-High fan switch on HVAC unit broken
-Front passenger parking lamp out...not the bulb causing it
-AC needs recharge
-Very small oil drip coming from somewhere, need to investigate
-Driver's seat will not recline with switch, will on memory setting though.
-Temperature pixels a little spotty
-Groaning sound on start-up. Not sure if its the oil pump or something else, need to investigate further.
Otherwise I love the car. I can't wait until I have some free time to start looking into the small issues.
-MAF sensor
-MAF sensor again
-motor mounts and tranny mount replaced
-another motor mount 20k miles later
-leaky valve cover gaskets replaced
-front window regulator
-rear window regulator
-dry rotted engine hoses
-passenger side windshield wiper arm
-coil packs and wiring changed
-crank position sensor
-crank position sensor again 30k miles later
-starter
-alternator at 100k miles (I don’t think that’s bad)
-a/c compressor at 110k (don’t think that’s bad either)
-radiator
-radiator pump
-seized pulley
-upper and lower control arms, shocks, springs and tie rods (I consider these wear and tear items)
-brakes (wear and tear item but expensive at $900 a piece for each front rotor)
-rear differential
-esp malfunction when I go over ramps, not sure on that one
LOL ^ AKA $8k. Question... how did you know the motor mount was bad after 20k miles what were the symptoms?
I found out the hard way and now have a dent in my hood! Look at your underhood insulation and see if there's signs of the oil filter housing making contact. Heres good vid
of what a bad DR side mount looks like
Hi am new to this and basically I’ve got a W209 clk55. The other day my gearbox is playing up from PE today your jerk in and then from our 2p would not going to gear hard to turn ignition off put it on the manually and then, basically I took it to a local mechanic and He had a look at the car and checked the ECU by the passenger-side seat and he said there is an oil present on there and he said it looks like it’s coming from the gearbox harness to the ECU and chances are the ECU is contaminated with oil, he reset the faults but the car is still playing up anybody had this issue with the car or anybody got a fix for this?
Crank position sensor crapped out last week at 98K, intermittent ABS, ESP....assume its time to replace the brake switch. Trunk release started acting up a few days ago too.
Im at about 68,000 now and my current issues are:
- A/C condensor(?) or maybe the compressor - whatever is the really PITA one to fix needs replacement as ive already replaced teh other one, the A/C wont blow cold anymore
- rear sunshade wont go down if you put it up (i just leave it down and never put it up - not worth fixing
- multiple issues with the bose amp, replaced it used off ebay 2x, but it seems they get old/bad and start losing signal/power to certain speakers
I think those are the only things that i have not fixed. I dont have time/space or tools to do my own work on many things, so i usually budget for about $3k per year and get everything that doesnt work or needs replacing fixed. but that A/C and sunshade i may never fix.
Convertible top mechanism just stopped working. It’s the first major costly problem. Goes in to the shop tomorrow.
Passenger seat front to back motor failed.
I'm at 189*** miles.
Was dumping coolant at normal running temp. *** Fixed w/ new coolant cap and thermostat
Presently, I guess I had a bad connection to a full battery and tried to start the engine....now I have a driver's seatbelt light dim constantly on. No power to anything, trunk locked, key fob doesn't turn or do anything...and no metal key
Last edited by Thompson Senior; 12-18-2019 at 08:29 PM.
I crossed connections to the battery when jumping mine. Running jump car's alternator began to surge and cheapo cables started smoking. Only about 2-3 seconds max.
Benz started just fine after that, never really ran to charge it back or more than a few minutes but eventually car ended up completely dead and unjumpable. I luckily had popped a back seat after having closed trunk thinking it was fine.
battery tested at 1.6V.
Don't think any further damage occurred as of now. Threw new battery in, started right up.
never a bad idea to leave trunk and seats popped whenever working on car.
left trunk popped and soaked key cylinder in WD as metal key hasn't work or goes in fully. Will check to see if that helps.
I'm at 189*** miles.
Was dumping coolant at normal running temp. *** Fixed w/ new coolant cap and thermostat
Presently, I guess I had a bad connection to a full battery and tried to start the engine....now I have a driver's seatbelt light dim constantly on. No power to anything, trunk locked, key fob doesn't turn or do anything...and no metal key
That's a negative on this one...had my trickle charger on the right posts...all it did was charge my battery back@ 100%...key fob still doesn't work for anything. Still a dim seatbelt l Seatbelt light disaster
ight on. Also SOS button.
Last edited by Thompson Senior; 12-19-2019 at 12:26 PM.
That's a negative on this one...had my trickle charger on the right posts...all it did was charge my battery back@ 100%...key fob still doesn't work for anything. Still a dim seatbelt l Seatbelt light disaster
ight on. Also SOS button.
UPDATE!!
So the metal key got the trunk open to reveal a dead battery..
Finally changed the much needed motor mounts! Replaced my steering damper while I was at it and discovered it was shot. Tightened the steering gear bolts as they were loose too.
Today will be plugs, oil change, and valve cover gaskets. If I really get motivated I'm going to knockout the belt, tensioner, fan clutch, thermostat, rad hoses and breather hoses.
04-17-2019, 08:39 AM
