CHICLK55

I bought a car from the auction with a KLEEMANN SUPERCHARGER, i think it needs to be rubuild, anyone know who I can contact other than KLEEMANN for support?

GatorMB

I have noted a benz supercharger changing hands for the last several months on craigslist Orlando. The price is getting higher.
Study some of the high performance posts here these guys are gurus on benz blowers.

Cheers, Gator

betrezra

Hey Chick.....

Why do you think it needs rebuild? Making noise? No boost?

In any case.... you came to the right place for kleemann boosted cars.

Cory @ Kleemann USA in Co Springs is THE MAN for this blower on these cars.

He and Brandon over there are the best in the business as far as I'm concerned. Honest, over deliver...... responsive.... I could go on.
the nice thing about Kleeman, it will be OEM quality when they are finished...... so you don't have hoopty CEL's and funny business often found with tunes...... it will work right under all conditions.... not just WOT on a dyno...... I'm running my blown clk as a daily driver 24K miles later with just usual maintenance.

I actually had my car trailered to their shop to get the bugs worked out. Cory took care of my beast.

GL

CHICLK55

I will try to post a YouTube video and show the knocking sound it makes like rocks in a can, it's either I fix it or remove it put a stock manifold on and sell it on eBay and see if anyone wants it

betrezra

The older auto-rotor kleemann blower actually makes some clunky sounds from what I've heard......... it may be OK. post up a vid.

Listen @ time 1:55 on this vid...

CHICLK55

I think you're right, I will check it out tomorrow am at the shop...thanx a lot for the video I was ready to pull it off

lowphat

At a point in time Kleemann re-designed the water-to-air cooling setup on their blowers. The older models have a mechanical water pump that mounts, and is integrated, at the front of the blower assembly. The later re-design replaced the mechanical pump with an electric pump that is mounted remotely and not attached to the blower unit housing. For reference, the picture below is my setup and shows the older, mechanical water pump located at the front of the blower housing, up near the radiator.

Your post mentions a knocking noise. If your Kleemann setup has the mechanical water pump setup like what's shown in the pic, then the knocking may be due to the impending failure of the mechanical water pump. The mechanical pumps tended to fail prematurely due to a design flaw that failed to provide a "weep hole" in the pump housing to allow coolant seepage to exit the pump housing. Instead, if seepage occurred the coolant would accumulate internally in the area of the blower water pump bearing and eventually cause bearing failure due to corrosion. I had to replace the mechanical pump on my Kleemann setup two times due to this flaw. I had the housing on the second replacement pump modified by the addition of a weep hole and that pump has been quietly turning for over 140K miles ever since.

If you have the mechanical pump setup, and the noise you are hearing is the pump on its way out, you'll have to contact Cory @ Kleemann. Even though the mechanical units are no longer available, Cory can remove the old bearing and press a new one in. If he tells you that the replacement bearings are no longer available then PM me and I would be happy to sell you one of the two pairs of replacement bearings I bought way back when as backup just in case things didn't work out.

Cory can also replace the mechanical setup with the later electric version, however, that process requires the replacement of the front portion of the blower unit with a different "snout." At one point I was considering the replacement route and was told by Cory that I would have to ship the blower to him and that the job would cost around $1,500.00.

If your system has the remote mounted electric pump, then everything I've written above is useless to you .

FWIW, as far as I'm concerned, with the exception of the above, my experience has been that the Kleemann blower setup is extremely reliable - if you can solve your issue for a reasonable amount of $, you won't be disappointed.

Good luck

CHICLK55

thank you for the post, you guys might be familiar with this vehicle on the boards.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...p-img_6473.jpg

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...p-img_6437.jpg

I bought this car at the auction last week due to Mechanical issues.

Im first trying to resolve a NO THROTTLE response issue, the vehicle had a dead battery and bunch of codes stored in the system BAS Lights ESP lights. The car starts but has a very low idle and the lower the idle the louder the knocking is in the supercharger it sounds like its about to die on me but the RPMS slowly pick up and keeps running when I press on accelerator it climbs very slow to about 1500rpms no higher ........when the RPMS climb it doesnt knock anymore........Im hoping it has something to do with the very low idle that causes
the knocking..........

CHICLK55

Here is the video showing once I start the vehicle and then all of the sudden when I pull the throttle cable the knocking gets quiet and then it dies out.........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTkJk...ature=youtu.be

blackbenzz

That Sounds Horrible! Are You Sure It's Coming From The SC And Not The Bottom End? I WillBuyThe SC ofOff You If It's Ok. I Have A Stock Manifold I Can Send You too

betrezra

wow that is loud.

I would do some basic checking of this motor:
plugs,
compression of all holes
oil
coolant
boost
take an automotive stethoscope and place it on various parts of the engine to narrow it down...... I'm nowthinking this is the blower...... sounds very rough.

GL

CHICLK55

I need to fix the throttle idle first, the idle is totally off it idles at point ready to die out, my guess is once the idle will be resolved the knocking might go away....thinking I need a new throttle body I will update tomorrow

blackbenzz

Can You Pull The Codes?

CHICLK55

It had codes for everything the battery was dead I erased all codes except the code for throttle and esp can't remove...the car idles around 500rpm which is not normal and when I step on accelerator nothing happens

blackbenzz

CaN You Remove The Belt And Turn The SC By Hand AndSee If It Makes Noise?. You CaN Start The Car Briefly WithOut Belt As WEll To See If It'sEngine. Don't Leave It On For Long WithoutBelt, Just A Few Seconds

CHICLK55

Yah ill try that tomorrow......

betrezra

BB - good call..... turn blower by hand should tell you something. I do recall that auto-rotor making some different sounds than the eaton..... so fingers crossed it's just the very very low idle.

CHICLK55

Here is a video after removing the belt
it makes a knock when I move it from right to left, there is about an inch free play as you see my finger move between the knocks, when i spin it one direction there is not hesitation its spins smooth only when i stop and go the other way.

lowphat

How old is the gas in the tank of this auction bought car?

CHICLK55

When I got the car I jumped it and ran for about 10min before dying out, got about a quarter of tank of 93 octane and still runs with rpms too low, its like the throttle is not reacting to the gas pedal and idels around 500-600 rpm

CHICLK55

when i spik the pulley left to right is it normal to have that much free-play going from left to right?

blackbenzz

There Is A Plastic Gear In The Snout Of The SC. Yours May Be WorN.

CHICLK55

Here are the codes I cant erase and the engine data........

CHICLK55

blackbenzz

Do You WaNt To Sell The SC System?